Trip Report
Our second visit to Goa, and as our first was inspired by reading one of ‘Jim-Jam33's trip reports I thought I'd have a crack at one - don't expect miracles!
Last year we stayed at Lagoa Azil and despite a great time there (‘Mr Calcutta', et al), we decided to try somewhere else and opted for The Palmarinha. Booked First Choice again for the extra room on the plane, but for one week only as that was all we could fit in. We passed through Gatwick OK and boarded the plane to discover we were in two of the middle three seats alongside a rather large lady who unfortunately spilled out into both the isle and the middle seat causing Jill and I to have a rather uncomfortable flight and ultimately sealed our fate for the return flight - of which more later.
Arrived at Diabolical Airport on time and fairly sailed through immigration to find our cases already off the conveyor belt and on the floor (why do they do that?), grabbed those and marched out the door repelling all borders as we went. Having reported our presence to the Rep and telling her we would be continuing on via taxi, we crossed the forecourt and presented ourselves at the fixed price taxi window to get transport to Calungute. I must confess that I wasn't 100% sure how this worked, but it was explained and five minutes later we sitting behind ‘Raj Hamilton' careering through the early Sunday morning traffic and instantly wide awake - we had forgotten about this aspect of Goan life!
We arrived at the Hotel and, 650 rupees lighter plus two shades greyer, we were booking in and getting our first impressions of the hotel. Front desk activity was quick and painless and we opted for a safety deposit box at 400RS for the week however we were expected to provide a padlock - luckily the onsite shop provided one of these at 100RS and we were done. Mindful of other ‘HT'ers reports of road traffic noise I asked if they had any rooms overlooking the rear pool and were assured that we already had this so it was off to the room to unpack. Up to the fourth floor and, although not quite overlooking said pool, the view was beautifully rural right into the distance, with the main road off to the right. Both the room and the balcony were a lot smaller than last years but more than adequate, a lot less ‘tired', and with all electricity points working and not hanging out the walls - excellent!
I ‘assisted' Jill with the unpacking and half an hour later we were changed and ready to go ‘splorin'"¦
I was fairly sure of my orientation so we turned right out of the hotel and to the usual shouts of ‘Taxi!' strolled in the general direction of Calungute, taking some thirty minutes to arrive next to the bus station and then heading on towards the beach. Now last year we did some serious reading up on Goa, lapping everything up on HT (thanks one and all), including stories of tourists in tears and were ably prepared for the Culture Shock, helped by the fact that were in the quieter ‘villagy' feeling area of Arpora, so you can imagine our surprise as we were both suddenly overcome by panic attacks and feeling of ‘what have we done?' not lessened by our decision to take a detour through the fish market!
Anyway, we finally reached the beach by Calungute steps, opted to turn left towards the river Princess in the distance, and walked for about half an hour before selecting a shack at random called ‘Aggies Café'. We spent the day there and it proved to be a good choice with good food, and a dog that growled at all the sellers (suddenly we were dog lovers). Late in the afternoon a young boy and girl came along and did a tumbling routine on the beach in front of the shack and I have to say I found this really creepy and sad. I notice that a few other HT'ers have felt disturbed by young children cavorting on the beach this year but I don't know if this was the same ‘act'.
About five we decided to head ‘inland', hitting the Calungute-Candolim road after a short while but not knowing exactly where we were. Studying the signs for clues revealed ‘Kebabs & Currys', and this decided our destination for the evening. A short stroll along towards St Anthony's Church brought us opposite Rocky's Jewellers, which we had visited the previous year (without buying) and I had promised Jill at Christmas that I would have ear-rings and a pendant made up for her on our return. Perhaps I was tired after our long day because we ended up just looking through the window and moving on - a decision I would regret a few days later but which came right in the end as you will see!
So along came the evening and I have to say that once again you guys are great! Kebabs and Currys has to be one of the nicest holiday restaurants we have ever visited, with a fascinating and well laid out menu. We opted for a bottle of very nice house wine at RS750 coupled with starters & main course plus Bhaji's and a shared Nan, also the Black Dal which are apparently left in the Tandoor overnight and were delicious - also discovered that ‘Chat' means ‘lipsmacking' which I didn't know before. RS1780 the lot, and at the end I said to the waiter that we would be definitely returning for our final meal of the holiday only to be told that they were closing the following night for the season!
Returned to the hotel at about half past eleven, and here endeth the first lesson. I have read it back to myself and it sounds really boring so this might be all you get.
it is certainly not boring- keep it coming 
We all love trip reports!
We all love trip reports!
Hello Kevin1841
we got back from the palmarhina about a month ago
hope to hear more about your trip soon
also what you think of it there as there have been some pretty horrible reports about it but we love it there
we got back from the palmarhina about a month ago
hope to hear more about your trip soon
also what you think of it there as there have been some pretty horrible reports about it but we love it there
No, its not boring, especially reading about my favourite restaurant. Im looking forward to reading more 
Hi Kevin, its great, more please!!!! 
great reprt, looking forward to the next bit 
Deffo not boring, as we go to candolim any info on calangute hotels and restaurants is usually interesting and new.
carry on .............
carry on .............
Hello Amy,
We enjoyed the hotel very much. It was clean, the staff were all very friendly, and the breakfasts were very good. It was quite a way out from everywhere but we knew this already and like to walk as much as we can so not a problem. I think it was also the cheapest of what was left when we booked, not that that influenced us of course (cough).
We enjoyed the hotel very much. It was clean, the staff were all very friendly, and the breakfasts were very good. It was quite a way out from everywhere but we knew this already and like to walk as much as we can so not a problem. I think it was also the cheapest of what was left when we booked, not that that influenced us of course (cough).
Thanks for all your kind comments, I shall continue with day's 2 and 3.
Day 2, and they say you should never go back to the same place but today we did. Our favourite shack last year was ‘Vibrant' which is about halfway along Baga beach walking north from Tito's Road. Vibrant was set back from the beach and last year when eating lunch we had a panoramic view of the beach from left to right, however there was now a shack almost in front of ‘ours' and it wasn't the same somehow. A bit a hassle from the beach sellers today and Jill parted with RS300 for three ankle chains and a wrap, as I had only brought RS1000 down to the beach I was worried that we might be a little tight and sure enough we were 30 rupees short - a tiny bit embarrassing but the shack owner allowed us credit, although we did have to walk back to the hotel. All good exercise though!
The evening saw a return visit to I-95 and we both opted for Crab Chowder to start and for main course, the dish we had so enjoyed last year and was the reason for our return this time (to I-95, not Goa!), which was Steak Medallions wrapped in Bacon and filled with Blue Cheese -MMMMMNNNNNNNNNNNNNN!!!
We shared a dessert and I had a few Kings, with Jill opting for Vodka and Orange - RS2250 and our most expensive meal of the holiday. Worth it? You bet!
We walked back to the main road, hailed a Tuk-Tuk back to the hotel and arranged with the driver to pick us up the following day as we had pre-arranged a one night stay at Dunes Resort at Mandrem Beach (booked very easily by phone from England). Got up to our room and discovered a Swan sitting on the bed.
Awoke fairly early on Tuesday, sat out on the balcony for a short while and watched the daily elephant amble along, tail swinging, and a wonderful sight even though I know he's probably not going to get enough water for the day.
I have to say at this point that the Palmarinha's standard buffet breakfast is more than ample and varied. Jill usually opted for an omelette with choice of filling and I discovered that I could have Bombay Spuds on Purree - Curry for breakfast? Truly I have died and gone to heaven!
Our Tuk-Tuk was waiting for us and I quickly gave him directions for Morjim Beach and we were off (oops, did anyone notice I've just mentioned two beaches starting with the letter M?)
A nice forty minute run and we are getting towards Mandrem, a place that we had visited last year from Arpora ( to ‘Lovely Jubbly' shack in the ‘Dogs Bollocks' Tuk-Tuk which could generally be found in the centre of Arpora - Sorry Fee, I hope I can use the ‘B' word). A few stops to enquire as to directions, and lots of shaking heads and I'm now starting to panic (internally of course as Real Men don't ask for directions, but can reverse park). After about twenty minutes God appears in the shape of a random pedestrian and I hear the word ‘Mandrem' mentioned and start to realise I have made a tiny error (so far hidden from Jill I might add), and we are off and running. Now I didn't realise that Tuk-Tuks have a reserve tank so there was a further short panic when our transport gave a cough and juddered to halt at the side of the road - has anyone thought of importing a Tuk-Tuk to the UK? - I so want one!
The driver asks for another 150 Rupee's and I think this is very fare (fare, get it?)
We register at reception and are shown to our bamboo hut. I thought we had booked ‘on suite' facilities but this was not the case so we are transferred to another hut and informed that this will be another 100 Rupees. I have to telephone my Bank Manager in England and negotiate an overdraft.
Now we loved this place but couldn't recommend it to anyone as of course I would never recommend Goa to people who have never been - you know what I mean!
More to come, gentle readers. Your memoralist needs liquid refreshment"¦
Day 2, and they say you should never go back to the same place but today we did. Our favourite shack last year was ‘Vibrant' which is about halfway along Baga beach walking north from Tito's Road. Vibrant was set back from the beach and last year when eating lunch we had a panoramic view of the beach from left to right, however there was now a shack almost in front of ‘ours' and it wasn't the same somehow. A bit a hassle from the beach sellers today and Jill parted with RS300 for three ankle chains and a wrap, as I had only brought RS1000 down to the beach I was worried that we might be a little tight and sure enough we were 30 rupees short - a tiny bit embarrassing but the shack owner allowed us credit, although we did have to walk back to the hotel. All good exercise though!
The evening saw a return visit to I-95 and we both opted for Crab Chowder to start and for main course, the dish we had so enjoyed last year and was the reason for our return this time (to I-95, not Goa!), which was Steak Medallions wrapped in Bacon and filled with Blue Cheese -MMMMMNNNNNNNNNNNNNN!!!
We shared a dessert and I had a few Kings, with Jill opting for Vodka and Orange - RS2250 and our most expensive meal of the holiday. Worth it? You bet!
We walked back to the main road, hailed a Tuk-Tuk back to the hotel and arranged with the driver to pick us up the following day as we had pre-arranged a one night stay at Dunes Resort at Mandrem Beach (booked very easily by phone from England). Got up to our room and discovered a Swan sitting on the bed.
Awoke fairly early on Tuesday, sat out on the balcony for a short while and watched the daily elephant amble along, tail swinging, and a wonderful sight even though I know he's probably not going to get enough water for the day.
I have to say at this point that the Palmarinha's standard buffet breakfast is more than ample and varied. Jill usually opted for an omelette with choice of filling and I discovered that I could have Bombay Spuds on Purree - Curry for breakfast? Truly I have died and gone to heaven!
Our Tuk-Tuk was waiting for us and I quickly gave him directions for Morjim Beach and we were off (oops, did anyone notice I've just mentioned two beaches starting with the letter M?)
A nice forty minute run and we are getting towards Mandrem, a place that we had visited last year from Arpora ( to ‘Lovely Jubbly' shack in the ‘Dogs Bollocks' Tuk-Tuk which could generally be found in the centre of Arpora - Sorry Fee, I hope I can use the ‘B' word). A few stops to enquire as to directions, and lots of shaking heads and I'm now starting to panic (internally of course as Real Men don't ask for directions, but can reverse park). After about twenty minutes God appears in the shape of a random pedestrian and I hear the word ‘Mandrem' mentioned and start to realise I have made a tiny error (so far hidden from Jill I might add), and we are off and running. Now I didn't realise that Tuk-Tuks have a reserve tank so there was a further short panic when our transport gave a cough and juddered to halt at the side of the road - has anyone thought of importing a Tuk-Tuk to the UK? - I so want one!
The driver asks for another 150 Rupee's and I think this is very fare (fare, get it?)
We register at reception and are shown to our bamboo hut. I thought we had booked ‘on suite' facilities but this was not the case so we are transferred to another hut and informed that this will be another 100 Rupees. I have to telephone my Bank Manager in England and negotiate an overdraft.
Now we loved this place but couldn't recommend it to anyone as of course I would never recommend Goa to people who have never been - you know what I mean!
More to come, gentle readers. Your memoralist needs liquid refreshment"¦
Really enjoying this report Kevin, cant wait for the next instalment
can you import a TUK-TUK into england.... yes, it's been done.
A lot of hoops to jump through though and not cheap.
A lot of hoops to jump through though and not cheap.
Thank you kevin.. well done.. really enjoying your report...next bit please...
Kevin1841,
get your tuk-tuk into gear and please lets have the next installment...jxk8
get your tuk-tuk into gear and please lets have the next installment...jxk8
Ouch! They're not are they?
Perhaps I'll just keep it as a dream. I see from the spec that the reserve tank contains just one litre - I hope our driver to Dunes made it back to to the next 'filling station'.
Talking of filling stations, has anyone noticed that the new one they are building on the Calungute/Candolim R has both an 'In' and 'Out' sign? What are the chances of these being adhered to?
Perhaps I'll just keep it as a dream. I see from the spec that the reserve tank contains just one litre - I hope our driver to Dunes made it back to to the next 'filling station'.
Talking of filling stations, has anyone noticed that the new one they are building on the Calungute/Candolim R has both an 'In' and 'Out' sign? What are the chances of these being adhered to?
Sorry jxk8, I'm on to it - honest!
Well, I left you at midday on Day 3 and will continue from there. A short stroll down between the two rows of huts and we arrive at the beach. This was accessible via a small wooden bridge across a river but before we tackled that we decided a drink was the order of the day, so we ordered one.
From the Dunes Restaurant I counted about a dozen people in view on the whole beach - lovely! (Hope this doesn't sound ‘peopleist'). Couldn't decide what to drink but suddenly a small, unremarkable looking bird perched on the bridge took flight to reveal the beautiful blue of a Kingfisher, so I ordered a Vodka and Orange.
There were ten ‘sun shelters' on the beach which were quite substantial affairs, good for me because I actually don't really like sitting in the sun (years of Jill warning our two boys about the dangers of exposure having finally got to me), so after a short walk and lunch we spent the afternoon on the beach with our books, although we did punctuate that with a short swim. Just two sellers and in each case brief a shake of the head was all that was needed. Late in the afternoon we wandered slowly north for about half an hour and found two shacks next to each other, the only ones on the beach, and sat watching the sun go down over a few drinks.
We walked back along the beach splashing through the edge of the sea in the fast gathering gloom to see Dunes restaurant lit up quite nicely and returned to our hut to change for dinner. The shower was a little on the cold side but this was actually quite pleasant, although getting dressed and ready was a little difficult as I'm sure the two light bulbs must have been about ten Watts each. We are both paranoid about mosquito bites too and as both doors didn't quite fit their apertures we were trying to keep light to a minimum so this didn't help either! Finally ready, we returned to the restaurant for dinner and both ordered prawn cocktail to start and Garlic Kingfish to follow, washed down with a bottle of local wine. It turned out that ‘washing down' was probably all it was fit for and we had to mix it with lemonade whereupon in became quite pleasant! Food was excellent though and we passed the evening ‘ear-wigging' our fellow dinners (very rude I know) and discussing our plans was the rest of our holiday. I mentioned to Jill that we hadn't visited the jewellers for her Christmas present yet and she said that it was probably too late now anyway - a bit of a low point for me as a realised she was probably right and I should have sorted this out on the day of our arrival. I was determined that we should go there on our return to Calungute the following day in the hope that something would take her fancy ‘off the shelf'.
Returned to our hut at about eleven and retired to bed - the first time either of us had slept under a mosquito net. The ceiling fan was more than adequate however the bed was very hard and the pillow wafer thin so spent a fairly uncomfortable night compounded by me worrying about the ‘jewellery' business. I hope this doesn't come across as too negative as we thoroughly enjoyed this resort and would definitely do it again. Next morning we both opted for omelette for breakfast, the food being once again excellent although neither of us rated the coffee! We each opted for a drink from the extensive ‘juice bar', Jill going for something sensible and me choosing something called ‘Brain Booster' because one of its claimed benefits being to aid the memory - I've forgotten what was in it now.
OK, I haven't really forgotten - it was Beetroot, Mint, Spinach, and, Celery. As you can imagine it was probably the most revolting thing I've ever drunk in my life and so conclude that it must have been VERY good for me.
After breakfast we walked south, easily fording the river estuary after a few minutes and then ambling slowing along the deserted beach interrupted at one point by a naked young lady running down from the sand dunes and into the sea. Now call me a pervert if you must, but this certainly made my day! (Fiona, please tell me the N word is allowed)
A little while later we come to another river, again easily crossed, and realise that we have reached the most northerly point of last years walk along Morjim beach (my guess would be that this is Ashvem). Fairly busy here, but appears to be another nice place to stay. A pause for another drink (any excuse) and we return to Dunes to pack, check out, and lodge our bags at reception in order to enjoy the afternoon. Another very nice lunch at the same restaurant and we spend a further few hours on the beach before returning to Calungute at about four. Sitting on our bed this time is a scorpion - very artistic including bottle caps for eyes but we are not sure that we like this one!
Our destination this evening is to be ‘Over the Flames', a place we had really enjoyed on our previous visit last year when they were located in Baga, however I convince Jill that a visit to Rocky's will be a good idea and so we do that first. A quick lesson in diamonds and Rocky persuades me to go ‘over budget' on a pair of earrings and pendant, promising us that they will be made up in a style of Jill's choosing and will be ready by Saturday in time for our departure. Jill has also brought both hers and my wedding and engagement rings out to Goa to be made bigger, however the heat has made our fingers swell up. Rocky suggests that we just have Jill's done as she has further rings for reference and I do not.
I realise we have not brought our cards from the hotel, and only have enough Rupees for our meal but Rocky accepts a twenty pound deposit and we depart for ‘Over the flames'. Jill looks very happy - I've done something really good for a change!
Disappointingly we arrive at OtF after the evening's entertainment, and note that it is now much bigger and perhaps a little impersonal. Neither of us is very hungry and Jill orders just a Bruschetta for a main course, with me opting for Tandori Kingfish - we can't fault the food and decide that our initial impressions were probably wrong and will almost certainly come here again if we return to Goa next year.
More to come but I will pause at this point as I sense your eyes glazing over"¦
Kevin
From the Dunes Restaurant I counted about a dozen people in view on the whole beach - lovely! (Hope this doesn't sound ‘peopleist'). Couldn't decide what to drink but suddenly a small, unremarkable looking bird perched on the bridge took flight to reveal the beautiful blue of a Kingfisher, so I ordered a Vodka and Orange.
There were ten ‘sun shelters' on the beach which were quite substantial affairs, good for me because I actually don't really like sitting in the sun (years of Jill warning our two boys about the dangers of exposure having finally got to me), so after a short walk and lunch we spent the afternoon on the beach with our books, although we did punctuate that with a short swim. Just two sellers and in each case brief a shake of the head was all that was needed. Late in the afternoon we wandered slowly north for about half an hour and found two shacks next to each other, the only ones on the beach, and sat watching the sun go down over a few drinks.
We walked back along the beach splashing through the edge of the sea in the fast gathering gloom to see Dunes restaurant lit up quite nicely and returned to our hut to change for dinner. The shower was a little on the cold side but this was actually quite pleasant, although getting dressed and ready was a little difficult as I'm sure the two light bulbs must have been about ten Watts each. We are both paranoid about mosquito bites too and as both doors didn't quite fit their apertures we were trying to keep light to a minimum so this didn't help either! Finally ready, we returned to the restaurant for dinner and both ordered prawn cocktail to start and Garlic Kingfish to follow, washed down with a bottle of local wine. It turned out that ‘washing down' was probably all it was fit for and we had to mix it with lemonade whereupon in became quite pleasant! Food was excellent though and we passed the evening ‘ear-wigging' our fellow dinners (very rude I know) and discussing our plans was the rest of our holiday. I mentioned to Jill that we hadn't visited the jewellers for her Christmas present yet and she said that it was probably too late now anyway - a bit of a low point for me as a realised she was probably right and I should have sorted this out on the day of our arrival. I was determined that we should go there on our return to Calungute the following day in the hope that something would take her fancy ‘off the shelf'.
Returned to our hut at about eleven and retired to bed - the first time either of us had slept under a mosquito net. The ceiling fan was more than adequate however the bed was very hard and the pillow wafer thin so spent a fairly uncomfortable night compounded by me worrying about the ‘jewellery' business. I hope this doesn't come across as too negative as we thoroughly enjoyed this resort and would definitely do it again. Next morning we both opted for omelette for breakfast, the food being once again excellent although neither of us rated the coffee! We each opted for a drink from the extensive ‘juice bar', Jill going for something sensible and me choosing something called ‘Brain Booster' because one of its claimed benefits being to aid the memory - I've forgotten what was in it now.
OK, I haven't really forgotten - it was Beetroot, Mint, Spinach, and, Celery. As you can imagine it was probably the most revolting thing I've ever drunk in my life and so conclude that it must have been VERY good for me.
After breakfast we walked south, easily fording the river estuary after a few minutes and then ambling slowing along the deserted beach interrupted at one point by a naked young lady running down from the sand dunes and into the sea. Now call me a pervert if you must, but this certainly made my day! (Fiona, please tell me the N word is allowed)
A little while later we come to another river, again easily crossed, and realise that we have reached the most northerly point of last years walk along Morjim beach (my guess would be that this is Ashvem). Fairly busy here, but appears to be another nice place to stay. A pause for another drink (any excuse) and we return to Dunes to pack, check out, and lodge our bags at reception in order to enjoy the afternoon. Another very nice lunch at the same restaurant and we spend a further few hours on the beach before returning to Calungute at about four. Sitting on our bed this time is a scorpion - very artistic including bottle caps for eyes but we are not sure that we like this one!
Our destination this evening is to be ‘Over the Flames', a place we had really enjoyed on our previous visit last year when they were located in Baga, however I convince Jill that a visit to Rocky's will be a good idea and so we do that first. A quick lesson in diamonds and Rocky persuades me to go ‘over budget' on a pair of earrings and pendant, promising us that they will be made up in a style of Jill's choosing and will be ready by Saturday in time for our departure. Jill has also brought both hers and my wedding and engagement rings out to Goa to be made bigger, however the heat has made our fingers swell up. Rocky suggests that we just have Jill's done as she has further rings for reference and I do not.
I realise we have not brought our cards from the hotel, and only have enough Rupees for our meal but Rocky accepts a twenty pound deposit and we depart for ‘Over the flames'. Jill looks very happy - I've done something really good for a change!
Disappointingly we arrive at OtF after the evening's entertainment, and note that it is now much bigger and perhaps a little impersonal. Neither of us is very hungry and Jill orders just a Bruschetta for a main course, with me opting for Tandori Kingfish - we can't fault the food and decide that our initial impressions were probably wrong and will almost certainly come here again if we return to Goa next year.
More to come but I will pause at this point as I sense your eyes glazing over"¦
Kevin
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