Sadly I only stayed for a week at the African Village Hotel in Bakau.
With the help of all the info on this site I managed to do nearly almost what I set out to do.
I used the Bush taxis to go almost everywhere. Great fun. Using the info I went from Bakau via Serekunda to both Lamin Lodge and Abuko Nature Reserve. I gave almost a day to each and I am glad I did that. Finding the Bush Taxi garages is fun.
The only problem I had going to Lamin Lodge was the walk from where the Bush Taxi dropped me on the main highway. Quite a longish walk along sandy roads but well worth the effort.
I was so tired after lunching there etc and just lazing around that I did not really fancy the long walk along that difficult road. The waiter, a guy named Omar, suggested that it would cost 100 D by taxi to the highway. It was getting late in the afternoon and I managed to negotiate a fare with the taxi driver of 175D from Lamin Lodge to Bakau.
I am also glad I did because the President was using the Highway and everything was getting closed off -- the taxi managed to use many back roads etc to avoid it all.
Abuko Nature Reserve was an absolute MUST. I was the only visitor there the day I went. I saw lots of wildlife etc and actually saw a large crocodile try to get a Heron that was on the bank. A fascinating experience. Such wondrful colourful birds there. Many large Monitor Lizards wandering around as well. There is also a great animal orphanage worth a visit in there. Costs 35D to get in and worth every penny(or its equivalent!)
I really enjoyed wandering around Serrekunda market and spent a few hours 'people watching' whilst sipping cold drinks at Lanars Bar.
Trying to get a boat from Lamin Lodge to Dentons bridge was far too expensive so I missed out on that.
I had a great time using the ferry to get across to Barra. I did not get off in Barra but just returned with the same ferry. Amazing experience as well.
I then walked around in Banjul. A place I liked. Albert Market was also well worth wandering around in as well. I also got to Banjul from Bakau and back using the Bush Taxis.
A stroll along the road from Bakau to Cape point is also well worth doing. Only about 30 mins slow stroll. The fish market at Bakau was wonderful to see. More an experience. I just sat on the wall with the local women and just watched all that was happening.
I had to have a look at Sennegambia before I left. I got there from Serrekunda via Bush Taxi. The Serrekunda garage was a tad difficult to find but just asking solves many problems. I am so glad I was staying in Bakau and NOT Sennegambia. I did not like that place much at all.
I ate mostly at local small resturants around Bakau. McDomoros just up the road from African Village Hotel had great food at a very reasonable price. Great staff as well. Good place to watch English football as well. All the locals art mad keen on our football.
The African Village Hotel was just right for me. I loved it there. In my view it is the staff that really make the place what it is. There were also some great holidaymakers there as well and we all seemed to get on well.
Bumsters. Not really a poblem just an irritation. One was very aggressive to me near Bakau market at about 9pm one night. A quick about turn and back to the Hotel solved that. He certainly had a good command of the swear words in English. I kept away after dark from that particular place.
There were a few scams going on both at Lamin Lodge and Abuko. Wanting to me sign some sort of form to support a school or other things. A quick 'no thank-you' solved that. They may well have been genuine but somehow I doubt it. Anyway, being consistent about those things was the best way , in my opinion.
All in all, I had a great time. I would have to think seriously about how and to whom I recommend going to Gambia. People who are not 'streetwise' could come a cropper and have their holiday ruined.
I'm no expert as that was my first visit. But in my opinion it would be a pity to miss out on Lamin Lodge and Abuko. There are probably places that I should have gone to as well but, in my timescales, I did not want to do too much. The more you see the more you forget. That is my philosophy when travelling anyway. I reckon I got the balance about right. I still had time to chill etc in the Hotel.
Mind you, I was always up early about 6.30am. The best time of the day and yet missed by so many because they choose to lay in bed. What a waste.
Generally, I spent most evenings after my meals etc in the hotel as they put on some really good entertainment.
The Journey Back
As regards the flight. It was Viking Airlines. But I guess you get what you pay for. They were the only company operating charters to Banjul from UK at this time of the year. Anyway, they got me there and back and that was the important thing.
I didn't suffer any delays but the incoming/outgoing Tuesday flight was delayed 6 hours. But that could happen on any airline. The guys delayed going out were given a 250D voucher for food and drinks.
The transfers went smoothly as well both there and back. No crowds at the airport. Eating/drinking airside is very expensive. But what can you- if you want a bottle of water you have no alternative as you cannot take any through security. Airside large bottle water 90D , small 50D. Food- forget it.
What was comical for me in the departure lounge were the waiters. They MUST have the best job in Gambia. They came up to me wanting me to change their many many £1 coins into Dalasi or a £20 note. I played them at their game. I offered a £20 for 25 £coins or gave an excahnge rate of 25D to the £ to buy back. They are obviously very greedy and very spoilt. They want like for like or an rate of 40! Anyway, it was good fun for me passing the time away. They don't like it when the boot is on the other foot!!
Don't change money up at the airport. When I was there they offered 35D whereas at the hotel it was 38. A little place immediately outside the African Village offered 39 but I haggled a little bit and got 40 for my £20 note. Not a lot more but it is playing the system, I guess.
Pete
Sounds like you had a brilliant time Pete Very interesting reading - thank you
Excellent report Pete. Thanks for posting.
great report glad you enjoyed the country and its people.
HI Well done Pete ,yes Bakau is a better place to stay if your ever back when I am their pm me and come and have a proper local home cooked meal in Bakau meat gauanteed fresh , 175 d lamin lodge to bakau you did well, if you go again bush taxi to garages 6d yellow taxi to kololi (palma rima junction)or sennigambia 6d, if appraoched by taxi drivers say day,day town trip (NO ,NO TOWN TRIP) local car only, share the whole car for 6d,I always paid double.Brilliant report you wrote well done maxie
Yes, I will take you up on that offer!
I actually did get to Lamin Lodge by Bush Taxis but took a taxi going back because the owner of Lamin Lodge told me that the President was travelling at the time I was making my way back and suggested the most convenient way for me, to avoid many hold-ups etc, was by yellow taxi. Also I did not want the long walk back along the sandy tracks/roads from Lamin Lodge to the road. Was about 2 to 3 kms! In hot sunshine- no laughing matter but I did needed the exercise!
To get to Lamin Lodge by Bush Taxi from Bakau was surprisingly extremely easy. I was going to go via Serrekunda as I did to get to Abuko Nature Reserve. Staff at the African Village Hotel (so helpful) suggested to me a btter way.
I took bush taxi from outside Hotel to Westfield, a big junction outside of Serrekunda, for 5D. From there another Bush Taxi going to Brikama for 6D. I was a bit worried about finding the right Bush Taxi at Westfield but a chap on the one from Bakau to Westfield was going to Brikama so showed me the way and organised with the driver to drop me off at the road for Lamin Lodge. Such helpful people when you get totally away from the Bumsters around the Hotel.
regards,
Pete
I have many many Gambian(african friends) who dont ever ask or wish for anything,yet would share their last meal with you,.I said African friends as I swear there are more immigrants than locals,liberians,senegalese,guinea bissaus ,guinae corrakeans,nigerians freetonians to name but a few people I know,hope you return it a small beautiful paradise away from tourist areas .
cheers maxie ,
ps marvel at their knowledge of language,many speak mandinka ,wollof bambo, english french some german and fulla and the dialects are in no way similar,could teach us brits a language lesson
Glad I've looked at the forum, me and my oh have been looking to go to Gambia round about Nov09 but for the life of us we can't make our minds up which part to stay in. We do like our creature comforts but not so much the creatures, can you suggest a good area to stay and maybe hotel and give us some idea of the prices we would expect to be paying for food, drink taxis etc.
We have been going to Goa for 12years so I don't the there will be a culture shock for us.
Thanks
Tush
I am no expert but I guess the place to start is knowing whether or not you want to stay in and close to all the main restaurants etc. The main tourist area of Sennegambia. Personally that was not for me bit it obviously was for many others. I stayed in Bakau at the African Village Hotel. If you like your home creature comforts , as you said, then I would not recommend that Hotel. It was perfect for me though for all I wanted to see and do.
Difficult for me to give an opinon of food costs etc as I ate mainly in the local places. Generally I paid about 160dalasi for my meals including a beer. Sometimes cheaper. Beers in the hotel were 40d each for a bottle 330ml size. There are many many good restaurants in the tourist areas costing 3 to 4 times that.
I would not say that I was your average package deal guy so maybe I am not the best person to comment on costs.
Taxis can be a rip-off like everywhere else. Don't use the Hotel/Tourist taxis is the general way to go. A got the odd taxi to get me out of trouble now and again. From Sennegambia to Bakau I paid 80d.
If you are up for the challenge I would definitely recommend the 'Bush taxis'. Once you learn the system it is then a piece of cake and great fun. Cost about 6d per trip or so. Bakau to Banjul was 6d.
Serrekunda market could be an eye opener- personally I loved it. I am also used to Goa. Was first there in 1976 when they had pig toilets at Colva.
If you want to be a bit more specific with questions then maybe I could be of more help.
regards, Pete
Think I may have confused you over the cost of a meal and beer. 3 to 4 times was the meal I was talking about. Beer in hotel was about 40d. Outside of the hotels in local bars it was about 25d.
Their is an hotel out near the military camp/prison which I would avoid I cannot remember the name I personally avoid the area its way way out of any tourist area,with taxi only access,
maybe some one could post the name?
cheers end enjoy the smiling coast, maxie
There was an Army camp near our hotel in Bakau. I don't know if that is the one you were referring to. If it was then I think you were making a mistake, in my opinion.
It was a perfectly acceptable hotel for the price and in a fantastic position. Loads of bush taxis etc to take you almost anywhere for a few dalalsi.
Sennegambia-- no, definitely NOT for me. I found the 'real Gambia' fascinating- not with a tour guide but doing things yourself is much much more fun.
the hotel I refer to is near a street market opposite the prison come army camp ,the hotel is a two word name I believe, and is within walking distance of a cashline machine,as I say only been there once the cost could have bought the wreck of a taxi that took me, hence I never ever returned (PM me for some info) hope thats ok
cheers maxie
I talked to some of the staff in the Hotel and they were quite adamant that is was not a Gambian but probably someone from Nigeria or another country close by.
That really was the only 'incident' I had in Gambia. To be honest-- I was a bit foolish to be out on my own at that time and it was dark with non existent street lighting. There were a lot of people around though.
cheers maxie
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