This was our 14th visit to Goa. We have previously stayed in Calangute but this year decided to have a change and stayed at the Highland Beach Hotel in Candolim and we are so glad we made the change. Candolim was so much cleaner and the hotel was so much better, it was like a different holiday for us. As we eat mostly in Candolim it was easier than having to book taxis every night to take us down there. We will definitely stay in Candolim again next time. The only downside was there was no centre as such which Calangute has. We were very familiar with all the shops etc. In Calangute high street and knew just where to go for everything. There didn't seem to be many chemists around either. There are 2 large supermarkets though but we prefer to give our business to the smaller shops if we can. Sorry it's a bit long but it did make me relive every day of my holiday.
Friday 14 December
We left home by taxi for the approx 1 hr journey to the airport at the civilised hour of 11:00 a.m., it was very foggy and icy, but fortunately this didn't affect our journey. After a very quick check in we headed for Frankie & Benny's for lunch with a bottle of wine then did the rounds of the duty free for perfume and drinks. I had bought a watch on our last visit to the airport in August which wasn't working properly and they very kindly exchanged this for me with no hassle. We had a good flight, plenty of leg room in 2 seats together towards the back of the plane. We found there was as much room as we had had in the premier seats the year before.
Saturday 15th
Arrived at Dabolim on time but it was horrendous going through arrivals, the worst I have experienced. We were queuing for over 2 hours and were entertained by two families fighting (mainly the women) because someone was trying to push in. I must say my sympathies were with them to some extent as numerous people did actually push in in front of us whilst we were queuing. Can't understand why some people have to be so rude and can't just wait like the rest of us. Everyone is tired and just want to get out of the place. It didn't make it any better because a Russian flight had landed before us and then to add insult to injury another Russian flight came in after us and they got priority which again made people very angry. When it came to our turn to go through, the man stamping the passports said he knew us as he had seen us at Candolim Boys Home, he stamped our passports and said we were good people which was nice to know! Don't remember him though, don't know what he does at Candolim Boys Home. After the 2 hour queue we had to wait another hour on the bus for other people who were still waiting to get through, we should have got a taxi but didn't think there were that many people behind us in the queue. We eventually arrived at Highland Beach and given a welcome drink and had a quick check in. Another reason to get a taxi was the bus cannot get up the road to Highland Beach and you have to drag your cases up the road, not a good experience when you are tired. Anyway everything was forgotten when we reached our room – up 60 steps on top floor of block but fortunately we weren't carrying the cases. We had a room with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, sitting room and kitchen. Everything was nice and clean and very light and airy. We unpacked and got our safety deposit box, which was also free at this hotel thus saving us more money, and went for lunch at Fishermans Cove. We then went for a walk around to get our bearings and do some necessary shopping and get money changed. As stated above we couldn't find a chemist though. Went back to the hotel and caught up with a bit of sleep around the pool. After a shower and change went to Roys on Beach Road and had a fantastic Thai/Chinese meal. I will do a separate thread on the restaurants we visited with prices. We then went to the Sports bar to watch the ManU game and finished the night off with a cocktail at Fishermans Cove.
Sunday 16th
Had a good nights sleep, bed a bit hard but was quite comfortable, fortunately I can sleep anywhere. Had breakfast around the pool, fruit juice, eggs any way you want them and toast and jam/marmalade and then spent the day at Bonos Shack. Couldn't believe the toilets, better than some restaurants, 2 ladies, 2 gents and lady's shower and men's shower. Bonos is quite a bit more expensive than other shacks but we felt it was worth paying a bit more for such nice toilets. The service in the shack was very poor though but that is to their detriment as we would probably eaten and drunk more if we could have got served although I think the people who tipped the boys every day got preferential treatment naturally. We did have to pay 100rps a day for 2 beds as well which didn't really bother us, can't compare it to £5 a day on the continent. We never had a problem getting a bed as they had 60 beds out every day and extended the shack twice whilst we were there but it was full every day. We stayed on the beach late to have a drink and watch the sunset. Back to the hotel to get ready to go out for dinner. Every day we found we had power cuts between 6-8 pm which was a nuisance when trying to get ready particularly putting your contact lenses in by torchlight. Haven't had such bad power cuts for a long time. We got a taxi outside the hotel, another good thing about the hotel, taxi's were always available and didn't mind late nights. We went to Bomras in the evening, it was expensive but the food was good although the portions were very small. This was our third time here but we decided we wouldn't go again because it is far too expensive for what you get. We went to quite a few of the high end restaurants but found the others better value for money. We got back to the hotel for midnight, had a Baileys from our duty free stock and read until we were falling asleep.
Monday 17th
Dentist and opticians today. Dentist first stop. Check up and clean and polish 1,600rps each. Bad news for me I have to go back on Wednesday for a filling. After dentist went on to Dangui opticians in Calangute, picked up a tuk tuk on the way. I ordered contact lenses to collect on Friday, don't need new glasses this year. 3380 rps for 12 months supply of monthly lenses best quality Bauch and Lomb. Had a laugh and a chat with some Brummies we met in the opticians who live close to where we used to live. Onto the chemist and other shops to buy rehydration salts, eye drops, ayuverdic shower gel and soap, fur mittens from the fur shop where we bought our coats last year, cashew nuts, Bacardi, limes for drinks from market and tiger balm. Called into Ticlo to leave a message for Sheila and Jimmy (Thornhill Lass on TA) to met us at the Carvery on Wednesday and also called into Valeries Travels to say hello. Got a tuk tuk back to the hotel, dropped off the shopping and headed off to Chocolatti for late lunch. Booked Top Nosh for Xmas day. After spending so much money we headed off to change more at the Elephant shop where we were talked into buying lost of cheap Mac products (makeup for the uninitiated men out there!). Headed back to the hotel and had to 'look at' the girls shop near the hotel, yes we bought two bags and a pair of sandals. Got back to the hotel eventually and went to the spa to check out the price list. Decided we would be going back and then had a nice cold beer by the pool before getting ready to go out. After 7 tonight, taxi driver Allan who became quite a regular for us. We had the usual nice soup, good steaks and orange soufflé with orange liqueur which had to be followed up with liqueur coffee with cointreau. Allan picked us up at 11 pm and we arranged for him to collect us the following evening to go to I95 and Friday to go to Ashvem. Baileys and book before sleeping.
Tuesday 18th
Today went to Peters Shack down towards Calangute to see Sangitta our massage girl who we have used for 14 years. It took us an hour to walk to the shack from the hotel so were in need of a massage by the time we got there. The shack is set well back this year on private land but it did make it lovely and peaceful, they did only have the obligatory 10 beds. Stayed at the shack until 5ish then set off to walk back to the hotel. Tonight we went to I95 which has now 'shifted' (love that word) from Candolim to Saligo to the spot where Sublime used to be last year. Don't know where Sublime has gone to now. Anyway it took us a bit longer than we expected to get there, the food was well worth the effort though. Back to the hotel by midnight, we had a drink and read while we painted our nails. Bed at 1.30 a.m.
Wednesday 19th
Back to the dentist today for my filling, not looking forward to it, hopefully it won't be too painful. 2 injections and 20 minutes later and it was all over, nothing to worry about after all. 4000rps We went straight from the dentist to Candolim Boys Home. It was a shame to see that all the land surrounding the home was now being built on taking away a lot of land where the children used to play. They seemed happy enough playing cricket and football in the grounds of the home though and some budding card players were huddled in a corner playing cards. Went to Newtons on the way back to the hotel then headed off to the beach. Went down to the Oasis as recommended by Billy(?) but it was full so we headed back up to Bonos for the rest of the day. Evening time was fancy dress meet up at the Carvery. We walked down from Highland Beach, everyone loved the fact we were dressed up and stopped us to chat, the Goans love a party. The Dragons were brilliant as Mr & Mrs Xmas and a brilliant Snowman all with full makeup applied by Mr Dragon. Chilly was a very saucy Mrs Xmas, Chris was a great tooth fairy, unfortunately Alfie wasn't well so he wan't able to join us despite his best efforts. Mr and Mrs Meagain were dodgy priest and Mama Cass, Liz went as a Red Indian Squaw and I was a 1920's flapper girl. Also there were Corinelyn, Terry and Kevin. We had a great night with lots of photos and were joined later by Sheila and Jimmy (from TA). The worst part was walking down from the hotel in my high heels on those dodgy roads but it was great to see the Dragons ride off on their scooter into the night all dressed up. Arrived back at the hotel just before 1 am.
Thursday 20th
Bonos today. Firstly we called into Pop In Jewellers on beach road. We took in our Australian opals which we had had for years and done nothing with. He was a lovely man and designed two rings for us with 10 stones in each and also earrings for Liz with the spare ones surrounded by diamonds. My ring £160, Liz's £150, earrings £200 all using our own opals. Couldn't believe how cheap they were. Thank you for this recommendation, he was well worth using and extremely reasonable, expected to pay a lot more. He said they would be ready for collection in 4 days time. Eventually got to Bonos about 11.30, had a drink and a read for a while then settled down for our afternoon sleep. No lunch today as we were going to Thalassa in Vagator and wanted to make sure we had a good appetite. Left the beach about 3.30 as we wanted to leave for Thalassa about 5 to get there for sunset. Telephoned before we left to make sure we could get a table. Lovely meal. We walked down the road to Sri Bar and Restaurant to meet up with Chilly, Meagain and OH for a drink. A really nice place with excellent guitarist and somewhat different menu. Left about 11, got back to hotel and our usual ritual - Baileys and read.
Friday 21st
Ashvem today to Cool Place shack to met up with Vishal who was our taxi driver for many years but now has his own shack for last few years. Picked up Sheila and Jimmy from Ticlo in Calangute on the way. Caught up with Vishal over last year then sunbathed for an hour before lunch of grilled kingfish and garlic butter kingfish with chips and salad and more beers. After lunch Liz and I had massages then before we knew it it was 5 pm and time to leave. Got back to the hotel to find there was a power cur again, it lasted about an hour. We had a drink on the balcony and read and just as it got too dark to ready anymore the power came back on. Went to Fiesta and called into Casa Portuguese on the way to book a table for Saturday. The new Titos Road and paving in Baga make everything much improved for walking around. Shame they can't get to work on the electricity in the same way.
Saturday 22nd
Bonos shack for the day. Back to hotel, another power cut. Left at 8.30 to go to Casa Portuguese, picked up Chilly on the way. We met up there with Meagain and OH. There was a group of Germans in there who were brilliant singers. Left at 0.41 and headed for Bending Bamboo with Chilly. Arrived back at hotel at approx 2 am.
Sunday 23rd
Bonos. Did nails on beach before next round of sunbathing. Wrote postcards, people still like to get our Goa postcards for their fix of winter sun. Evening we watched first half of ManU game in our room then headed of to Sportsmans Bar in Calangute for second half but were shocked to find it had been taken over and no regulars in there. We have had lots of great nights in there so it was a bit sad for us. We then went to Souymens Kitchen. We weren't impressed with this place when we first went but as it gets such good reviews we thought we would give it another try. We were glad we did as we had a fantastic meal and the decor has been improved somewhat.
Monday 24th
Into Calangute on the bus, walked down to Post Office to post postcards then went to opticians to collect contact lenses, these hadn't arrived yet so he made a telephone call and asked me to cal back in an hour. We then crossed the road to the watch repair man. Liz wanted to see if they could repair her watch, she had been told it would cost a minimum of £50 to repair in England . He changed two parts, put in a new winder and battery and it cost 950rps approx £10.88 at today's rate so she was well pleased. We then went on to the 99rp shop which Sheila and Jimmy had told us about and bought 3 tops in there, then went to the Tibetan market with a ring I had bought from them in a previous year which had lost a stone, thought they might repair it if I bought something else. We looked at various rings and earrings but the prices were outrageous bearing in mind what we were paying for gold at the jewellers so we didn't bother, decided I would see if I could buy stones at Anjuna and do it myself instead. Went to on to Redonda for a drink before heading back to the opticians to pick up my lenses. From there we headed for the beach via the steps to see the 'beautifications' we had read about but as usual these were incomplete so didn't look much different. We walked through the hordes of Indians up to Peter's Shack for lunch and a massage from Sangitta then. We got a tuk tuk back to Highland Beach whilst negotiating the chaos of the one way system. In the evening we met up with Chilly, Meagain, Corinnelynne and Dragons at Legends Bar where there was a really good band on and we had a good dance and a meal. Left about 11:30 and called into small bar near hotel for a drink and fireworks entertainment at midnight to see in Xmas day.
Tuesday 25th
Went to Pop In to collect the jewellery we had had, also decided to have another silver ring with black stone made to be collected in a couple of days. A fraction of the price of the ones in the Tibetan market and nowhere near as rough looking, everything beautifully finished off. Won't ever be buying anything in the Tibetan market again. Went back to the hotel with the jewellery and popped into Newtons on the way and bumped into Ram from the Carvery in there. Back down to Bonos. Shack has now been extended and it is much busier today. Left the beach at 4 pm to go back to hotel as we had an appointment at 5.30 for manicure and pedicure in the hotel spa. This was a total disaster. No nail polish remover so she started to try and file across my nails to remove the nail polish! I nearly jumped out of my seat and told her to stop. We decided to leave and do the job ourselves. It took them an hour just to do cut and file our toe nails without taking the nail polish off which I thought was peculiar but don't like to tell people how to do their job. They said we didn't have to pay anything but we gave them 500 rps for what they had done and left. Went to Top Nosh for Xmas dinner, had a brilliant night like last year, dancing with chefs and waiters. It wasn't as busy as last year though which is what we found with most restaurants we went to over the 3 weeks.
Wednesday 26th
Long day on beach today – no distractions. Left beach at 6.30, booked a table at A Reverie. Usual daily power cut, then the water went off. Telephoned reception, had to wait half an hour for water problem to be sorted out. Eventually got taxi to A Reverie. It was expensive here but the food was amazing and we will definitely go back, the service was excellent and it was a lovely place, took loads of photos. Left about 11.20 back to hotel and had a drink in room whilst catching up with the football scores on TV.
Thursday 27th
Sunburn starts today for us. Shorter day on beach, left beach at 4 pm to collect entrance tickets/wristbands but found these were now issued from the official car park up the road past Dom Bosco Hospital, it took us 1hr from leaving the beach to arriving at the ticket office then we had to walk back to the hotel, thankfully we took a short cut back to the hotel and it only took us about ½ hr to get back. They had sent me an e-mail the day before to tell me about this but unfortunately for us we don't do e-mails and computers on holiday, have enough of them at work all day. I have to be forced to use the mobile. Sunburn was much bigger this year, it is getting too big now. We had VIP tickets which did make it a bit better but we left a few minutes before the end to avoid the mad crush getting out. Went to Tinas (used to be Seashells) for pizza. Very good.
Friday 28th
Much the same as yesterday, beach and Sunburn. Left a few minutes early again to avoid the crush and had dinner at Casa Seashells who are having some new apartments on the new complex which is being built near Highland Beach, gave us a card and told us to ask for prices in July.
Saturday 29th
Day as previous 2 days, left beach at 4 pm to get to Sunburn earlier for last day. Today the VIP area was less crushed. Decided we wouldn't go to Sunburn again as it has definitely got too big to enjoy properly. The stages are too far apart. When we first went all the top DJ's were on the same stage but now you have to walk 15 mins from one end to the other to see different ones and sometimes the ones you want to see are on at the same time on different stages. Left a few minutes early again and went to Tony's. Back to the hotel and watched last half of Arsenal/Newcastle game and updated football scores whilst drinking Baileys.
Sunday 30th
Today Mandrem Beach. Rambo picked us up at 9.45. Journey took 50 mins. Went to Cafe Mandrem but didn't think much to the food. After lunch went to Shanti next to the shack for an Ayuverdic massage, full body, padi, Indian head massage, facial for 1500rps. Best massage I have ever had will definitely go back next year, 2 lovely ladies did our massage. We had a nightmare journey back 2¾ hrs, the traffic after Apora was horrendous. After sitting in a traffic jam for about 1 hr Rambo decided to go the long way round back to Candolim. Shame it was dark as we went through lots of little villages and we were quite high up. Would have been nice to see the scenery properly. Eventually got back to the hotel at 6.50. Paid him extra for his effort to get us back. Evening went to Victors. Didn't know what to expect as we had had mixed reviews. The food has to be ordered in advance of visit which probably puts some people off but we couldn't complain about anything, too much food for us to finish it all. Victor owns his own prawn farm and is thinking of doing tours there next year. Back to the hotel for 11.30, early night for us.
Monday 31st
Got up to hazy skies and not much sign of the sun but by the time we got down to the beach it had re-appeared. Bonos shack all day. Cocktail, Mojito, at the end of the day. Mermaid for dinner where we actually met some really friendly, likeable Russians who insisted on buying us drinks. After dinner we headed off to Bonos again. Great night, lots of dancing and a good crowd. Back to bed at 4 a.m.
Tuesday 1st January
Hazy again and quite humid. It has been more humid this year than usual at Christmas/New Year. Went to Elephant shop to change money. Good rates this year, didn't drop much over Xmas. Feeling a bit delicate today, arrived at Bonos about 11.30 and by the look of the empty beds this morning a few other people must be too. Filled up in the afternoon. Didn't have lunch as we were too groggy, just slept most of the day and had lime sodas and the odd beer. Getting too old for the late, late nights, dancing for 4 hour stretches. My head might think I am 24 but my body obviously says different. Evening went to Le Jardin. Food good but service terrible, very slow. Brought the tonic with no gin, waited ages for the starters and had to ask for the wine again when the food had been delivered, but had a nice chat with a couple who had been touring around India. Back at the hotel for 11.45, watched remainder of Arsenal game and caught up with football scores over a large Baileys. Bed at 1.20 a.m.
Wednesday 2nd
Anjuna market today. Firstly did some washing before setting off at 10 am. Not as busy as usual. Saw our 3 regular girls on the market and bought yet again more jewellery and presents. Stopped off for samosas and beer then more shopping. Went to Sea Breeze for late lunch and listened to the band for a while. Walked back to the taxi area with more shopping on the way – fur mittens for English weather (glad of them this week), t-shirts for nephews and a picture from the artists stall. Didn't get my jewellery repair done again on the Tibetan market and couldn't buy stones so asked one of the girls we buy from if she knew where I could get it done, she promptly took it away and got it repaired and said 'no charge' and we left with bracelets from them as presents which was lovely. Her way of saying thank you for all the business we give her over the years. Left at 3.20 and taxi dropped us at Chocalatti for afternoon tea. It was very busy in there and we had to wait for a table. We walked back to the hotel, had a beer on the balcony and read for a while. Went to meet up at the Carvery in the evening. No Chilly today as she wasn't feeling too good but as usual we had a great night with the same crowd as the fancy dress night but Alfie joined us this time as he was now feeling better. We took lots of photos of Rams adorable baby and left about 11.30, sadly our last meet up until next year.
Thursday 3rd
Down to Peter's shack to see Sangitta for our last massage. Finally arrived after our 1hr walk ready for the massage. After our massages we had lunch with Sangitta and her son and nephew who came down to see us. Bought more jewellery from another girl at the shack, sunbathed and slept for an hour before our hours walk back to the hotel. Was hoping to see Prem Josh tonight with Corinnelynne and OH but it was a bit up in the air as to whether the event was actually going to happen so we didn't bother. Again I had had an e-mail whilst away telling me the details and it actually did happen. Sent to Stonehouse for dinner, another first for us. Good atmosphere with bands playing. Service could have been better but it was busy and they didn't bother bringing our change back when we paid the bill which always annoys me. Back for usual Baileys and read. Early night for us 12.20 a.m.
Friday 4th
Sadly our last day. Up early to pack before heading of to Bonos. Haven't weighed the luggage yet but hoping we are not over. We have offloaded things a the boys home so hopefully we will be ok. End of the day watched the sunset with Mojitos and took lots of photos on the beach and around the shack. Evening went to Top Nosh again to meet up with our friend who had just arrived that day, our only time to catch up. Beautiful food as usual, sat chatting till late with Debbie and went back for a couple of hours sleep.
Saturday 5th
Up at 4.45 am. Allan took us to the airport, managed to juggle the weight of luggage around and hoped for the best. The queues weren't too bad as we had got there early before the coaches. It was 7.30 by the time we got through to the departure lounge and we left 15 mins late at 9.45 but arrived back in England on time.
All over for another year.
We did think it was quieter this year in the restaurants and we did miss the girls on the beach as we do like chatting to them, think it takes away the atmosphere a bit when they are not around. We had no trouble at all re sunbeds. Will definitely be back next year.
Brilliant read Brenliz thank you so much for your report
Love reading a good trip report. Thanks for taking the time to do it. I will be catching up with Chilly and the gang in 5 weeks and i cant wait
Great report, looking forward now to our 3 weeks from the 10 Feb, agree with everything said about TopNosh..
Wow! Great report! Makes me feel like having holidays in Goa. Maybe next year.
Thanks for putting in such a great report of your hols BrenLiz, we are giving Phuket a try this year and you've reminded us of so many places we visited last year. Like you we gave Candolim a try for the 1st time last year and although they both have their pluses & minuses like you I think Candolim just edges it. Not a fan of Bono's as the service is atrocious, and there are plenty of smaller shacks who I would rather give my money to. Like Preacher we thought Top Nosh was superb and when it comes to service theirs is second to none, always used to stop at Bending Bamboo's for a drink on our way out and there was always a decent atmosphere there. .....thanks again Keith
I am just nipping in quickly today so I am going to leave this report till I can read it properly. Thanks Brenliz I love trip reports!
well done brenliz now thats what i call a report....(give that member) a ipod......
Thanks BrenLiz that was a great informative read
Hi
Thanks for posting. Great read.
Great report really enjoyed it, AReverie is one of my all time favourites
Great report loved it thanks for sharing in so much detail
Very good report - thanks.
£40 for a year's supply?
I need daily ones as my eyes don't like the cleaning fluids. Must have a look and see what they have when we are there.
fantastic report. We are going back to Goa in February. Where is the jewellers that you recommend? My daughter is nearly 18 so i would love to buy something in Goa for her. many thanks Jazz x
The jewellers we used - Pop In - is on beach road in Candolim, opposite the Carvery where the meet ups are held. he is a lovely man, not pushy at all. Hope you get what you want.
Thanks- I will definitely visit them for lenses as well
Fantastic report BrenLiz, so detailed, thank you so much
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