If you prefer the more traditional sound of the Buena Vists Social Club era head for the Casa de la Trova (also a cover charge) but I have to admit to being biased - I don't think that it is as good as the one in Santiago. But the Palacio de la Artisana as well as having a good selection of craft shops used to have a small cafe that also had live music every afternoon for the price of coffee.
Just be warned that Cuban nightlife doesn't start to get going until around 10pm - if you want to catch an earlier performance ask around about who is playing the Matinees and where. These start around 3pm and go on until around 5.30-6.00pm and it's what Cubans do instead of having a siesta a lot of the time! Think tea dance but with mojitos! The big venues will also have an early evening performance but they are not tourist friendly in that they usually coincide with the Dinner service in most tourist hotels but if you are not booked in for dinner they are worth thinking about and then heading off for a late meal. Or do what the Cubans tend to do - have your main meal of the day at lunch time.
SM
Thanks for the info SMa. We hope to catch up with some night life.
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