Been back a week now and my fond memories of Almaty are as fresh as the day I left there.

Flew scheduled flight with KLM from Aberdeen via Amsterdam. Travelling to this part of Kazakhstan takes some time, but for me it was definately worth it.

Unlike other entry airports, there's a fairly relaxed attitude to customs control in Almaty (I believe this is because all the major embassies are in this city and they don't want to hassle people).

My accomodation was a 2 bedroom apartment in the city centre, booked through Almaty Property Services (INVALID URL and the girl there, Gulya, could not have been more helpful. Her e-mail addy is info@almatyproperty.com if you want to contact them.

Accomodation costs can appear to be quite high, but you must remember that hotel rooms are in the region of $100-140 for budget accomodation and the apartment came in at $84 per night (including the agents 20% commission). These inflated prices are caused by the number of business travellers in Almaty (it is a working city after all).

Airport transfers can also be arranged by Gulya and they cost $20 each way. Remember that US dollars are more readilly accepted here and there are currency exchanges all over the city centre (shop around for the best deals).

A big thanks to Gulya for helping me through the visitor registration process. It is essential that you register with the authorities within 3 days of arrival and I recommend using a local agent for this (money well spent). Also worth taking a couple of photocopies of your passport with you as the passport or notarised copies must be carried at all times. You won't get into a lot of bother if you don't have it, but you do leave yourself open to on the spot "fines" from local police looking for vodka money if you are stopped in the street.

It's very difficult to spend your money in Almaty as the supermarkets are so cheap. This is not the case if the woman in your life enjoys shopping as all the major designers are represented here and their products are pricey.

Eating out wasn't too costly unless you really want to try Guinness or any other imported drinks. we went to some fairly fancy looking places and the most we paid was £30 for the 2 of us (including wine).

Transport wasn't much of a problem, although I would avoid the buses. There are taxis in Almaty, but almost every private motorist acts as an unofficial taxi to try and supplement their patrol funds. You stand at the roadside with your hand out. When a car stops you state your destination and they will say if they are going that way. sometimes you might have to stop a couple of cars, but you will always get someone who is headed in your general direction. Always agree a fee before you start a journey 200 Tenge (225 to the pound) is usually acceptable.

Things to do in Almaty vary dependant on the time of year. As my visit was in winter, there were a lot of winter sports on offer but most of our time was spent in the shops as my partner wanted to renew her winter wardrobe more than anything else (that's the price I pay for her love of haute coutieur).

As the former capitol of Kazakhstan, Almaty also offers a number of museums and opera houses for thise of a more cultured disposition. I had to content myself with the cinema and trying to use my fledgling Kazakh, while my partner translated the more difficult passages.

Walking through the city centre I was amazed at the number of trees and I would really love to visit here in the spring or summer next year when the trees are all green instead of leafless. Alma is Kazakh for apple and the area is surrounded by rich farmland and (of course) apple trees.

Just a few words on visa requirements. You will need a tourist visa and these are available from http://www.kazakhstanembassy.org.uk. There should not be a problem getting a visa and there is no longer any need for a letter of invitation before applying.

That's about it just now For something different try Almaty. you know the neighbours won't have been there before you. One things for sure, not many people on HT or in UK have drank mare's milk, but it's a must do in Kazakhstan (much like drinking ayran in Turkey).

Cheers

Willie G
PS Although customs keep a low profile in Almaty airport, the immigration people are quite rigid about having the correct documentation, so don't try and cut any corners here.