Back from two fantastic weeks on Utorda Beach. We stayed at the Galaxy beach Resort, my report is in the Hotel rewiews. There is also the Kennilworth hotel which is used by the Monarch Air Crews and some Guesthouses .we looked at the Casa Ligorio and would stay there if we return.
The services outside the Hotel were limited to the Patrocin Relax restaurant and bar, and Audy wine store and pay phone both run by Victor, and it was entertaining to watch him running back and forth across the road as waitor and shop assistant.The prices for the alcohol were high due to him having the only source ie- 180rps for Gilbys gin only 130rps in Margao. A small grocery store and two Kashmiri shacks with the usual nicknacks jewellery and tailoring made up the sevices.
Utorda beach is a beautiful wide steach of white sand flanked by palm trees. Six shacks provide all you need without completly taking over the beach. We tried the two most popular Lloyds and the Rosary, finding Lloyds the best for us,Good food and cocktails my fav was the coconut colada at 95rps. In the evenings the atmosphere changes from shack to romantic beach restaurant, the sunbeds are packed away, tables are placed under a canopy of flickering lights, Rocky the head boy puts on his best shirt,and the food comes out decorated with candles. The only downside is they do tend to woo the Russian guests with huge signs written in Russian, but dont let this put you off, there is always a good choice of seafood, and my fav Butter Chicken.
We didnt take to the Rosary although it seemed to be the fav with the Brits, most of the beach tradors were stationed there and we didnt fancy fending them off or talking to them half the day.At Lloyds Hamish has a shop, but you go to him he dosnt bother you. Lloyds has ladies and gents toilets which are clean with washbasin and well away from the shack.
The well known Zeebop beach restaurant is raised above the beach and a great place to watch the sunset. it is very busy during the day when people come from near and far. Ther are sunbeds hammocks and an outdoor shower also the cleanest of toilets. The atmosphere is great but be warned the speciality is fresh seafood, so dont go if you dont want to eat fish.
If you really want to get away from it all take a northerly walk along the beach past the Hyatt hotel on Arrossim beach,keep going till you come to the Buddha Bar which is all on its own ,It only has 10 sunloungers and when we were there the only ones using them, its a haven of tranquility. But beware I went to the toilet cubicle to find only sand and a spade !
The Island Veiw restaurantjust in front of the beach looked good, but when we gave it a try waited 11/2 hours to be served the starters and main courses at the same time and cold,after complaining were given a 35rp reduction didnt return!
There are some good places to eat a short taxi ride away. On the Majorda beach road is the Pentagon, with a good menu ,Fusion is also good but small so book to avoid dissapointment. For us though Martins Corner lived up to its claim The Food The Ambience The Experience, go early to get a good table and avoid queing, book if there are more than 4.Its the only restaurant we visited in the area where at least half the clientel were Locals.
We took another walk along the beach to Colva, you could also hire bikes,It took us a good hour but we did keep stopping to chat . I know a lot of people hate Colva but i find it More authentic than Calangute or Candolim as so many local people gather there on Sunday afternoons. Domnicks is good for people watching and the food is excellent. Beware of the toilet, very hygenic as a squat ,but best to wear a skirt ladies!
Walking down the main street was thrilled to see a new coffee bar called Coffee Day at the Silver Sands hotel, after a week of indian chai needed a caffine fix. The espresso machiatto was as good as any I've tasted in Italy and at 27rps was well worth it, but the Gaurd had to keep shooing away the beggars, and kiddies doing acrobatics. For a good selection of new and used books, the small bookshop in the square before the beach is a must.
We took a tuk tuk from Colva to Benaulim and found the village and beach well lived up to the good reports I'd read on HT. We stopped at Joncys shack for lunch, Absolutely Fab great food and prices, First class toilets with tiled floors very clean and hand washing facilities.
We loved Utorda beach.
,but if you want nightlife stick to North Goa. You can get a local bus to Margao a 15 min walk up to the main road otherwise its Taxis. Our trips to the restaurants in the evenings cost 300rps with 2-3 hours waiting for a 6-8min journey. We will return as this area is an exellent position for accessing all of Goa and not too commercialised yet!

ps-Does anyone have a cure for flip-flop withdrawal syndrome, my toes are driving me crazy now they no longer have their beloved toepost in place