The booking of the cruise was handled by Jez(?) of The Travel House. We could not have been more pleased with the very helpful way he dealt with the booking. Exactly what we had expected considering we were paying upwards of £15,000 for this cruise.
Unfortunately, very soon afterwards it all began to unravel. We requested, three day extensions in Barbados and Buenos Aires, but could get an extension of our stay only in Barbados, not Buenos Aires. We accepted this as we were lead to believe we would have two days in Buenos Aires anyway. This turned out not to be the case. (We had one clear day plus a second day where we only spent hours and hours standing in an airport queue.)
Though we had paid a substantial deposit, we received a letter from Travel House, stating that our booking was not confirmed because we had not paid for the cruise by the due date. After much to-ing and fro-ing, over three days, with the GPO and Travel House, the £12,000+ cheque we had sent was eventually found "in a drawer, in someone's desk" at Travel House. (Remember this, it is going to happen again!)
We could not get our insurance document from Travel House, which caused us some problems with the insurers as we had to make a claim on that insurance, which could not be settled without it. I believe it took three letters or faxes to Travel House before we got it. None of our urgent faxes to Travel House were ever even acknowledged and they resorted to denying any knowledge of them!)
We could not get essential and informative details about the cruise, particularly baggage allowances, as no tickets were issued for the airlines, no information on what it would be appropriate to take with us for an extended cruise crossing the Equator to the Antarctic. It was only at the very last minute, by searching the internet, that we learned of the need to take wellington boots of a specific size. If we had not searched repeatedly for information we would not have known until after we arrived on board.
The lack of consistent, reliable information was partly responsible for allowing us to believe that gratuities and tips were included in the cost of the cruise. As it was we received a "request" to hand over several hundred dollars in tips to the staff on board the ship "because the staff were working for me!" I rather felt that I had already paid them, very handsomly indeed. Also we found a minor but annoying unexpected bill for $36 in airport taxes at Buenos Aires.
We had requested that we book flights on the helicopter which we had been informed would probably be available in the Antarctic. However we were told that we should make arrangements independently, once on board. As it turned out there was no helicopter and even if there had been we would not have been allowed to use it. Once again, whilst not a major problem in itself, it was dissapointing and is once again indicative of the lack of dependable information which we found to be a significant feature of the entire operation of Travel House, the cruise ship owners and the vessel itself.
We were unable to find any information on the hotel at which we would be spending a three day extension in Barbados. However, as we had booked a superior cabin on the vessel, we were entitled to expect, from brochure information, that we would also receive first class accommodation in Barbados. This turned out to be far from the case. Despite receiving a "discount" we paid approximately £180 per night for a poor quality room for which independent travellers were apparently paying less than £100. Photographs of the room are being used as evidence in a current court case against Travel House, for a refund of excess charges and compensation.
We were unable to obtain tickets for the flights, repeatedly promised for three weeks(?) prior to departure. Eventually ABTA had to be contacted to try to unravel the mess. It then transpired that we could not get the tickets because Travel House had not sent us an essential form about which we knew nothing.
The missing forms which prevented us from getting these tickets is required to be returned to NCL/Orient Lines at least three weeks prior to departure. Yet they only dispatched them to us just over two weeks prior to departure and when we returned them imendately, they at first confirmed having them and then denied having them.
This is an extract from a letter from NCL/Orient Lines explaining thier view of their urgent and essential form.
"We did send the Required Health Statement to your travel agent (in Wales) on the 15th of November." (we were due to leave from Edinburgh, on 6th December, before the post would arrive) "We felt this was adequate time for this to be returned to us by fax (though they did not provide a fax number and we had to search for one), or post, your travel agent should also be aware that this is required. It does state on the form that this has to be returned to us 3 weeks before travel, this is to encourage guests to return the form to us promptly after receiving it!"
We did indeed fax the form back, within an hour of receiveing it, and the girl confirmed that she had it in her hand. But then it was lost for three more days before "being discovered in someones drawer" Sound familiar?
We first found out about this form when it arrived in the post, two and a half weeks prior to departure, with a clear statement that it must be returned at least three weeks prior to departure!
We had a good flight out to Barbados!!
Arriving in Barbados, despite frantic efforts by a number of people, we were unable to find the agent, nor locate any Marco Polo representative. After twenty-five minutes the rep turned up saying he was the only one on duty and he had been dealing with someone else, somewhere else. There had been no contact information or help of any sort.
The hotel was barely acceptable as a three star hotel, much less a superior hotel on a £15,000, £180 per night holiday. We would be reluctant to stay in such accommodation at less than half the price we were paying. However, in order to save the cruise we made the best of it until we could speak to the rep.
Photographs of our room are on the web.
The rep. a lady, arrived on the last day but was much too busy handling baggage and other matters. So we climbed on the bus to take us to the ship, as our baggage was thrown high into the air over a pile of other similar bags. We later recovered the bags undamaged, but, like many other bags, very wet from a mysterious soaking in the dry weather.
Our non air-conditioned bus took us to the terminal where it was turned away so we were taken to the boat where we were once again turned away. Back to the terminal where we were first held on the very warm bus for a while before being told to disembark and stand in a line to nowhere for around half an hour. Eventually help came. We were sent back to the bus then back to the boat where our arrival was eventually well handled.
Our cabin was adequate but not anything special. Despite the cost of the cruise, we put this down to the pre known age of the boat and the expected challenging conditions under which it might have to operate.
Mildly disappointing but acceptable in the circumstances. I estimate the cabin is directly comparable in size and quality to those on the North Sea ferry operating the one day crossing from Zeebrugge to Edinburgh.
The cabin air conditioner did not work. We were unable to lower the cabin temperature below 25c. We were told this was because we were not operating on main engines and the compressors would come on line once the main engines were brought on line.
After two days cruising with the thermostat at maximum cold, with the window curtains permanently closed, we got the temperature down to 23c Two messages to the pursers desk produced no response. Finally a written note produced an engineer who increased the airflow rate, but could not reduce the temperature. The end result was nothing more than a significant increase in air noise. Two letters, (copies retained) to the pursers desk again produced no positive fix.
Two shirts were damaged and one pair of shorts marked by soot from the ships funnel which regularly left deposits on the ships deck.
We repeatedly received dire threats of impending doom if we took unguided tours or trips ashore in Ecuador, Chile or Peru. As a result we ended up paying very high prices for poorly executed tours. Though some tours were ok, none were value and at least one was absolutely extortionate, $310 for the two of us, for a seven hour fast bus ride across the desert, with a buffet meal.
This was a world class rip off in a country where, as it transpired, the two of us could have hired a taxi and driver for less than $100 and had a personalised tour. This we did from then on and had a wonderful series of excursions at usually less than a third of the price the boat was charging. We had great drivers who almost invariably went well out of thier way to make sure we saw everything. Wonderful way to do it. Highly recommended.
It was very apparent that very useful information on self help trips was being withheld until after organised excursions were taken. Quite a number of passengers were very upset about this. In our presence some passengers made these points known, very strongly, to tour staff and others.
On one coach outing we arrived at a scenic location, got off the bus to look around, but before we had walked twice the length of the bus, we were being called back as we were out of time!!! This was not because of heavy traffic, because there was none. It was simply mismanagement of time on an expensive trip.
Because of the ongoing problems with temperature and noise in our cabin approx. 26th December we were offered alternative cabins, but instead of being at the closed end of a cul de sac corridor we would either be at the open end of the corridor, by the main door through which all passengers accessing the rear decks would have to pass, or in a cabin with severely obstructed views from the windows.
We had specifically requested the cabin we had, for its views and "quiet location". The alternative cabins were unacceptable and so we remained in the same cabin. The purser apparently took no further interest in the problem. She later revealed that she was well aware of our and other problems with these cabins, which were a long standing, known problem " a feature of the vessel".
Shortly after this we started to be awakened in the early hours of the morning by heavy banging and hammering from beneath our cabin. We thought this would be a short term problem to be dealt with by the pursers office. It was not until the last day that we were informed that this is yet another known problem with these high priced, superior cabins in that area.
Apparently there is heavy baking (dough) machinery directly below these cabins and any light sleepers are likely to be disturbed when baking starts in the early hours of the morning.
We were now approaching the southern extreme and the air-conditioning was now set to maximum hot for two days with no discernible effect on cabin temperature which continued to drop. During the northern part of our cruise I had been unable to work in the cabin because of high temperatures. Though it never became unbearably cold in the cabin, it was clear that the air-conditioning was totally inadequate for the job.
For two days, during the day, we were driven from the cabin by fumes. This turned out to be painting and servicing being carried out on the front of the vessel adjacent to the air intakes for these cabins.
Apparently fuelling and servicing the inflatables takes place by these vents and it is a known problem for people in these expensive cabins that petrol fumes may pervade them for some days!
This is the first cruise we have ever encountered such limited food times. We were very disappointed, amazed, to find certain items almost rationed. For example, on several occasions there was no orange juice available for breakfast. When questioned, during official breakfast times, the maitre was quite unabashed to say that the orange juice dispenser had run out and would not be refilled as breakfast would end soon and it was not worthwhile! Grapefruit and other juices seemed to be available at those times. The rationing appeared to apply always to the orange juice.
We ordered orange juice from the bar, which was mysteriously available, at a price! However this "fresh" orange juice was sometimes so diluted as to be undrinkable and was returned as unacceptable even though bar staff expected payment for it.
It is the first and only cruise (and by a very, very significant margin the most expensive) where we have been asked to pay for still drinks at any time of day, much less pay for such a breakfast staple as orange juice, at breakfast time.
Ice cream, served on the aft deck, was apparently rationed and only available during lunch, from around 12.30 to 2.00pm in the tropics.
The same is true of hot chocolate which was only available from the urn on the aft deck at around $2-3 a mug as we steamed through the Antarctic ice. The crew were obviously embarrassed by this as we experienced first hand them giving it away for free, rather than ask for money!
On three separate, consecutive occasions, arriving on the aft deck for breakfast, around 09.25, all hot food had been cleared away. All that was available was a small (very small) fruit buffet, outside on the aft deck, plus coffee from a "transport café" urn on the open aft deck. Again photographs were taken of this meagre offering.
Not only did the ship dilute and ration the orange juice, but it also ran out of Lemon tea tea bags, shampoo/shower gel and some other daily staples.
Initially the shower gel had been OK, but it soon became apparent that it was being watered down eventually to the point where it would no longer stay in the dispenser.
The purser was questioned about these basic necessities. She stated that after three weeks of cruising she was unaware of these specific complaints by guests but seemed to accept that they were a normal part of the operation of the Marco Polo as the vessel has no home port and frequently experiences supply problems of this sort.
Bear in mind that these food and drink and cabin supply matters related matters might seem relatively trivial, individually. But on a £15,000 cruise? I think not. Sum them together and factor them by that £15,000 fare and you might begin to see why I do not accept being cast as Oliver in the poor house, asking for more orange juice, and being denied, quite fitted my expectation for this cruise.
The "thinking mans cruise" presented a number of lectures and entertainments. It was embarrassing for guests to watch lecturers struggle with inoperable slide projectors, on one occasion even having to project a slide show of slides unknown to the lecturer, from borrowed slides, in a borowed projector, because the ships projection system would not work.
One lecturer was so poor that he managed to reduce an initial audience of some 150+ to no more than around 8 to 10 people during his bizarre and rambling forty minute discourse.
The pianist produced a similar effect on his audience. The first Christmas carol service was a quick and not very competent ramble through the first verses of some popular classic carols. Though I think it was enjoyed by the 100+ participants, the quality reflected in the second performance which was attended by fewer than a dozen people.
During a request performance I asked the pianist if he would play Boccherinis minuet No 11, I was delighted and amused to receive his answer, "Oh, is that a well know piece?" So I asked him if, instead, he could play Rondo ala Turka. At least he recognised it as Mozart when he told me "That's much too difficult!!" The thinking mans cruise? I don't think so.
We were presented with red anoraks for our sojourns onto the Antarctic ice. It transpired that the collars of the anoraks were not water proof and purple dye from the collars ran onto two shirts and a scarf, badly marking them. WE received no appology but were offered a free laundering....of the anoraks!!
Our last day in Buenos Aires consisted of breakfast, a drive to the airport, standing in line for three and a half hours, checking in, moved to the aircraft, sitting unattended there; it took six and a half hours from leaving the hotel before we could get our first drink. And we got that drink only because we, along with other passengers, demanded to see the purser. The cabin staff on the flight actually refused to provide us with soft drinks until we insisted the purser personally got them.
The overall impression of this cruise is one of quite exceptionally bad value. Everything is done to relieve us of money, but little is done to provide value. No one, at any stage appeared genuinely interested in resolving problems. If we were able to contact people, which frequently proved difficult, it was simply a matter of receiving what were meant to be placatory statements, denying responsibility or passing the problem on to other, equally disinterested and ineffectual people. The only, and I do mean the only thing, which represented anything near to our expectations was the hotel in Buenos Aires. Many people felt, rightly or wrongly that UK & Antipodean guests were being fleeced to pay for discounted fares for US guests
Travel operator:
NCL/Orient Lines