Courtesy of Pollensa1946
Cruising and Ashore.
Saturday Dec 10. At sea heading for the first stop, Tortola.
The usual towels-on-sunbeds-at-dawn crowd were active (forget sitting around the pool area unless you're an early riser) but we were able to find a sunbed in a good location onboard. In fact we never throughout the cruise found getting a sunbed or lounger to be a big problem, a walk around usually turned something up, just not near the pool area.
Sunday Dec 11. Tortola.
Arrived in Tortola to find thick cloud, heavy rain and the island mountains shrouded in mist. The rain persisted on and off until early afternoon when the sun came out and the cloud and mist cleared. In the morning we walked around the capital Road Town which does not have anything of particular interest, in fact the only thing to be said for it is that it is the first opportunity to buy soft drinks at sensible prices. Follow the main road to the back of town and you will find a RightWay supermarket where you can buy 2L bottles of Coke.
In the afternoon we teamed up with two others from the ship and together with some Canadians off of the Queen Mary II, also in port, we hired a mini-bus to take us on a 3 hour tour. This included a stop at Cane Garden beach which is supposed to be the best on the island, in fact the beach was fairly ordinary but was a welcome opportunity for a swim. To get the best taxi/bus deal you should walk beyond the dock area into the centre of town to the main taxi/bus stand, we negotiated the tour for 10 USD pp.
Maybe it was the weather that influenced us but we felt that as a first stop Tortola held nothing special and was a poor start. Although, one person on the ship reported meeting the actor Richard E Grant in the supermarket, it must have something going for it.
Monday Dec 12. Antigua.
Bright blue sky and warm sun, Antigua looked lovely. We had booked a morning trip with P&O, the "Tropical Trails" which cost £42 pp (= 70 USD pp). This consisted of 8 people in a Land Rover being taken thru the sugar cane and rain forest over very rough roads (pot holes you could get lost in) and then a run round some of the island sights. There was some fun element in this and we did learn some interesting facts (Pineapples grow in the ground and take 13 months to mature, I always thought they grew on trees), but we did not see some of the better parts of the island as you will find from our next trip.
In the afternoon we teamed up with another couple and hired a mini-bus to take us to Nelson's Dockyard and Shirley Heights. The Georgian era dockyard has been restored and is set in a lovely bay, we had a drink in the rear terrace of the Admirals Inn just inside the entrance. The next stop, Shirley Heights, gives amazing views of the bay and surroundings. Entrance to the dockyard costs 5 USD pp, keep your tickets as you will need them to gain entrance to the Heights. The trip cost us 17.5 USD pp for the mini-bus (we were quoted 80 USD for 4 and negotiated 70) plus 5 USD pp for the entrance fee, contrast that with our morning trip which did not compare well with this. This is an excellent example where DIY pays off.
Tuesday Dec 13. St.Kitts.
Bright blue sky and warm sun, St.Kitts looked lovely. We had booked a morning trip with P&O, the "Railway Tour" which cost £52 pp (= 87 USD pp). There are two times for this trip, the early one you have a 10 min bus journey to the rail terminus followed by a 2&1/2 hours rail journey then a 45 min bus return. The later trip reverses this sequence. On balance we preferred the earlier time as you get to the train and are on the trip within a short time, versus the later where you have a 45 min bus journey then have to wait for the earlier trip to arrive at the terminus.
The train trip was enjoyable, we got free drinks and small cake snacks and were entertained by an onboard choir. It's probably the best way, although expensive, to see the island which is largely undeveloped and has few main roads.
The capital Basseterre is a very pleasant little town, worth having a good look around.
Wednesday Dec 14. At sea heading for St.Lucia.
Thursday Dec 15. St.Lucia.
Bright blue sky and warm sun, St.Lucia looked lovely, the dock area at this location is probably the nicest you will see on any of the stops. The duty-free shopping for booze and jewelry is second only to that in Barbados. We teamed up with two others and hired a mini-bus to take us to Rodney Bay beach which was very nice and excellent for swimming. The round-trip was quoted as 16 USD pp for 2, we negotiated 10 USD pp for 4.
Although one of the most developed from a tourism aspect, St.Lucia is also one of the most attractive islands.
Friday Dec 16. St.Vincent.
Lots of cloud around with patches of blue sky. 6 of us took a mini-bus to Villa Beach which is very unimpressive but just across the bay is the little known gem of Young Island. Just stand on the beach and a water-taxi will appear to take you across, as usual negotiate the price and you have to enter by wading into the water and exit onto a wet jetty. This is a private island largely occupied by a single hotel, but visitors are welcome with the restriction that you cannot use the sunbeds and hammocks belonging to the hotel. Just stretch out your beach towel and enjoy a lovely setting with excellent swimming, including a swim-out bar just off the beach. From later discussion we had the best beach-trip of anyone we spoke to on the ship. The round-trip cost 10 USD for the mini-bus and 2 USD round-trip for the water-taxi.
Saturday Dec 17. Mayreau, ship cannot dock so went ashore on tenders.
Early rain then bright blue sky and warm sun, Mayreau looked lovely. This is a private island only about 1&1/2 miles long. The tenders drop you at Saline Bay where there is a nice beach, some shops and a bar. The ship crew also set up a bar next to the beach. The hidden gem of this island is Saltwhistle Bay, to get to it you have three choices...(1) Walk over the hill road to the left of the landing point, it is very steep up and the same again down. We walked it, if you are fit it will take around 25 mins. (2) Take a jeep-taxi, although P&O state there is no motor transport on this island this is not true. (3) Take a water-taxi round the headland, we did this on the return leg, it was fast, exciting and not for those with a fear of small boats. One-way it cost 5 USD pp for 4 of us.
The beach at Saltwhistle is a classic Caribbean beach with white sands, overhanging coconut palms and excellent swimming. Not to be missed. There is a small bar/restaurant.
As stated by another poster the ship sets up a BBQ **on the ship** from 12-3, which is entirely the wrong place to have it.
Other passengers reported they had a great day out on the Catamaran trip.
Sunday Dec 18. At sea heading for Isla Margharita.
Monday Dec 19. Isla Margharita.
Early rain and cloud but this soon cleared and was lovely (we were told by a local that it had rained constantly for the past week). The info that P&O give you on this island is completely misleading. They stated in their visual presentation on the first day cruising that...(1) USD would not be accepted, only the Bolivar was OK. In fact USD was accepted everywhere. (2) There was nothing at the docking point and a trip booking was advisable. In fact there was the best craft market of any of our stops (lovely pearl jewelry, bags and Caribbean shirts) and a very nice beach (although beware of stepping on Sea Urchins, they are like golf balls with pins sticking out).
On the basis of the P&O presentation we booked a bus trip, "Rhumba on the Chiva". This is basically an island tour, a one hour stop at a nice beach and lots of free booze and snacks thrown in. It cost £24 pp (= 40 USD pp) and was lots of good, enjoyable fun, but take out the alcohol induced fun element and it was just another island tour with the limitations of that, as explained above. It included the usual stop at a jewelry mall where the pearls etc were not a patch on that available back at the dock. The assistants even admired the necklace my wife had bought at the dock and asked where she got it.
Tuesday Dec 20. Trinidad.
The worst dock area we saw on the entire cruise, and the capital, Port of Spain, was no better. We walked along the main road to the right of the dock, at the 2nd traffic lights turn left into Brian Lara Blvd and about 1/2 mile along left again into Frederick St. These two are the main shopping areas, but, quite frankly, forget it. The shops can be seen in any run-down main street in the world, the city is choked with traffic, seedy, run-down and has an intimidating, threatening atmosphere about it. Apart from the very friendly tourist officials the whole place was unfriendly and unwelcoming, filled with low-life. We have travelled in many places around the world but this was one place I wanted to get out of fast. There were 4 of us together and everyone agreed, as did everyone else we spoke to on the ship.
P&O took on a large supply of fuel oil at this stop and I can't help but feel that is their only reason for calling in there. We learned from a crew member that P&O advise them to only go ashore in groups, not singly. They did not give that advice to their passengers. Next day in Tobago I asked the taxi driver her opinion and she said that people from Tobago did not like Port of Spain, which she said was filled with pick-pockets.
This is one place where if you are interested in a P&O trip then take it.
Wednesday Dec 21. Tobago, ship cannot dock so went ashore on tenders.
Bright blue sky and warm sun, Tobago looked lovely. Everyone heads for Pigeon Point beach but right next door to there is a hidden gem, Store Bay beach. Pigeon Point is private and there is a 3 USD pp entrance fee, Store Bay is public and free.
Everyone reported Pigeon Point as being overcrowded, Store Bay was almost deserted when we arrived around 11am and we got 2 sunbeds and brolly easily for 7 USD. The beach is fairly small but very nice and excellent for swimming. There are toilets, changing facilities, shops, bars and restaurants. From discussion with other passengers we had the best day out of any of the beach trips. The taxi round-trip cost 10 USD pp for 4 people.
Thursday Dec 22. Barbados, staying overnight till Friday departure back to the UK.
Bright blue sky and warm sun, Barbados looked lovely. The dock area has an excellent duty-free shopping area, the best for price and selection of any we found on the trip. If you are planning a take-home duty-free bottle or a major jewelry purchase then this is the place to buy it. The ship is located some distance from the city, you need to get a taxi or mini-bus into town. The mini-bus cost 1 USD pp one-way, the one-way taxi back cost 5 USD for 2 of us.
In contrast to Trinidad, BridgeTown is a warm, welcoming place with some attractive buildings but for shops you're as well sticking to the duty-free at the dock. We had a drink at the (apparently world-famous) WaterFront Cafe by the river, very nice. We heard very good reports from those that went on the "Swimming with Turtles" trip.