i took this from my tripadvisor account,the report is from my stay in baga in april 2011
After leaving our house in the midlands we made our way up to manchester and The Hallmark Hotel,we(my wife and i) always have a park and fly package before we go on hols.nice enough hotel..not as good as crowne plaza's but still ok.
checked in then went for my usual pre hols warm up which is sauna/steam room/plunge pool/swim over and over for a few hours.our transfer was included in the price and we arrived at terminal 1 at 7am ready to depart at 9.20am April 5th
The flight was non eventfull except the last hour and half which was a tad turbulent so the pilot descended from 39000 feet to 31000 feet prob solved.
Thoughts on Thomas cook plane...not too good my previous long hauls were to thailand by Thai air and Malaysian air and they were both good,thomas cook plane was cramped and uncomfortable and expensive if you wanted drinks etc.
Goa
landed at the airport expecting to swelter but it seemed ok fought off the suitcase muggers and we made the journey to CSM baga,bus could not travel up the csm road so the hotel sent a small taxi to fetch the cases for us,a bag handler rudely shouted "coin" showing me a pound coin and like a fool i complied to his request (could kick myself now).
checked into room 184 and was not happy but as it was now 2am wed morn i left it till i woke up to request another room on the grounds that the balcony was way to small and we like to have the last drink of the evening on the balcony so we went out to get a drink and wandered into papa g's wanted a lite bite to eat so ordered a beef sizzler each..oh boy big mistake just one could have fed the two of us,nice food at a cheap price...on to room 135 and yep we were happy with that.
First day we walked from csm road down to the river princess and i took a few snaps..
caught a taxi back and OH was using heavy language at the distance we had just covered...
Thoughts a nice huge beach what was swarming with locals around calangute steps and too many samey shacks.
Caught a three wheel rickshaw to anjuna market and got hasseled to death by locals but enjoyed it none the less.bought a few leather belts.
Anyway i wanted to try a shack i had read so much about and went into big banana...not impressed really orderd a breakfast and the sausages were cremated.walked up towards baga creek and cut through onto tito's lane,it was there where the sight of rubbish and litter hit me i could not believe how something that has so much going for it could become such a dump.
After a few days of wandering around the beach in the day and eating and drinking around the main baga road we thought we had made a mistake in coming here night after night was just a constant din of car horns not more than a few second go by without a horn blaring.
shacks so far were xaviers and shining star ..not overley impressed
restaurants were lazydays which was good and A Reverie which was recomended to me by mike the owner of phoenix bar in capt lobos beach hideaway.
A reverie was a class above surroundings and food were top class.
After four days i wanted to head off down south to palolem and try a beach hut (thank you stalex) but disaster struck as my wife had severe dehli belly,she was up all night with terrible stomach pains and all the rest that goes with it..i trundeld off to the chemist and explained the problem to them and i was supplied with pills and drink sachets etc..problem eased after a few hrs and cleared by night time so we went to mackies night market.
Great night out watching the singing and dancing from the food courts even bought a few glittery elephants lol.
so sunday we caught a taxi to palolem for a cost of 1500rs i had one guy begging for him to take us for 1300rs but i had given my word and kept it.
and so along palolem beach and onto Ciarans...
thoughts...this is what goa is all about,this is why people love it so much.
The difference between Baga in the North and palolem in the south is..well...unbelievable,give me more of this.
after three magic nights in palolem we moved up the coast a bit to Agonda and had one night in Agonda white sands.This place is totally different to palolem and in a nicer sought of way,it seemed like we had that whole huge beach to ourselves and white sands is one of/if not the best hut complex in Agonda,we had a great time here.
i haven't mentioned the barber/shaving shops yet but the old feller outside simrose deserves a mention,he asked for 30rs for a shave and then gave me the option of a face massage with ice..yeah ok i said so he chuckled to himself and ran to his house over the road and fetched a pail of ice which he used on my face whilst massaging it...heaven! in that blistering heat i could not have wished for a better experience.skin felt brand new.
So after four great nites we made our way back to Baga and suddenley things did not seem so bad..probably due to the fact that we now spent our evenings on the beach in the shacks
Best beach shacks we found were Cafe del mar (you were right stalex) and bobbys shack in candolim.zanzibar looks nice but nowt special
Thoughts....you know what i can see us coming back here.
Time for another tour and this time jungle book tour
What a great time that tour is..cost £90 each with tc tour rep .swimming in the lake and getting power showerd was great.even the nightime campfire was fun.zeb the guide asked if anyone wanted to visit a jungle pub so off we all trooped out the camp into the jungle and across dried river beds untill we came to the jungle pub....cant remember much more of that evening lol.
The remaining few days were spent sunbathing and eating at cafe del mar and evenings in candolim,we ate at inferno and that is a quality restaurant.
i know this is a long report but being as the forum is quite lately i thought i'd try and give you something worth reading
Cost of hols
Flight and hotel £1540 for two
Ciarans 3 nights £150 taxi there and back £40
white sands 1 night £21
jungle tour £180 for two
Jewellry £480 two mens rings...dont ask!
dog in kennels £140 15 nights
3 shirts made to measure £45 i photocopied a rodger daltrey shirt which is £40 in the uk and the tailor made a perfect copy most pleased
various spends £1000
Thoughts was it worth it? oh yeah it sure was
Are we going back YES definatley next year....Whispering palms Candolim..i hope
Side notes
if you travel to india without rupees you can change money onley at the airport just near the exit on the right..no t/c's
Barbers these are great for a shave but they will try and have you by blending seamlessly into a face massage,so just make it quite clear shave only 50rs
litter
this is a crying shame as why the place is filthy.i can see why people leave in disgust never to return,i felt the same way after being there for four days
Baga is noisy and has no footpaths candolim seems a better option with footpaths and still plenty bars and restaurants to go at
taxi's the charge for locals is 12-15 rs a km and waiting time 15-25rs an hour so do not tip them as they are ripping you off.
tipping no need to tip anyone more than 20 rs even 10 rs is enough.some of the shack workers earn £50-3500rs a month.
beaches didn't do many but little vagator beach is superb and so is palolem and agonda
restaurants A reverie is tops,Thalassa at little vagator is a must (thats specia) inferno was good (shark tikka) and lazydays is goodish
sorry if this is a long winded trip report but i tried to cram all my observations in
trusted jeweller..Glorious arts right outside the enterance to csm complex
taxi driver..there are plenty about but after trying a few i settled on this guy Premjit +91 9822156599 did not try to overcharge and has a good sense of humour and speaks excellent english.
my only previous visits to asia were to koh samui and phuket,Thailand is five star compared to goa but for some reason goa has a wonderfull charm to it
ps if this report looks a little strange its because i typed it into my email first then copied and pasted it.
Brian
Brill Brian that was super to read so I take it thats you on the net looking to get your next Goa trip booked ...we all know its a sh** hole but there is just something about it makes you want to go back again and again ...colleen
Excellent report,but i must pull you on the tippping.You said 10/20 rps is enough as the shack boys earn about 3500 rps per month.I think this is outrageous...these boys work only for about 5 months of the year so need to earn their money during the tourist season.If you were in a restaurant in the Uk would you leave the equivilent of a 20p tip.Most people tip 10%,so on a bill of say 1000 rps you would leave 100 rps.Also the tips are normaly pooled so all the staff share in the tips,including the kitchen staff etc.
After the season they move on to other seasonal jobs.
tipping,,ooer! touchy subject.
it seems to upset some people, either tipping too much or too little.
In my case it varies on several things.
1 what kind of mood I am in
2 how good the service and food was
3 how big the bill is
4 and most crucially, how many honeybees I have had!
oh yes i'm going again....9 weeks time silver sands holiday village candolim and trying as many beach huts as my time will allow (3 weeks)
john someone else pulled me on my tipping comment when i first posted that trip report on tripadvisor....each to their own i say but its human nature that greed takes over lets say they start getting 100rps tips for a season then imo in two seasons time it will be 200rps per tip.also a tip is gratuaty (sp) not compulsary.
A few shack lads that we have knowen for years told us that they dont get paid for working in the shacks they get a bed for the night their food and their tips ....RE.tips if we get our food fast drinks with out having to go looking for them and if the boys leave us in peace then we tip them 10%..to me thats more than enough ...colleen
I think that they may have been trying it on Colleen, I have seen boys at bonos get paid.
I think so too del no one does nothing for nothing ..that was back in the days where they did not know if they would ever see you again ..But the Goa bug got us
I think you'll find Zeb no longers works for Jungle Book..but has branched out to do his 'own thing' as an independant tour guide. We did Jungle Book good few years back now when Zeb had not long been working for them. I am still in contact with him so if anybody wants any info on what he is doing now please pm me and I'll put you in touch with him.
Say that every year and never do anything new,but have been on most of the day trip things and the taj trip is a bit expensive by air and I really don't fancy the train.
Anyway 56 hours to go!
Train is great! We were first with day tripper to go by train south out of Goa to karwar. Thoroughly recommend it although I think they go by jeep now .
No way go on a flight Del its not as dear as you think ....
seems to come out at around £850 with Johns boat tours or lazydays
[b]We will be going to the Taj Mahal in November we booked it all on our own DIY we got the lot for about £220 each that is for 2 return flights Goa to Delhi ...5 nights in 3 different hotels while we are there ..all our transport for the 6 days we are there ....and Train tickets to armritsa (sp) to see the waga border ceremony...so I would have to say do it on your own ........colleen
Was chatting last night with Zeb who worked for Jungle Book. He now works for himself and takes small groups of say 5 or 6 /families and is at least 20% cheaper than anyone else in the industry. Sort of trips he does - Golden Triangle flights both ways / Kerala with Kanyakumari very cheap with an option of an overnight houseboat. He also does the Heritage Tour of India that includes Varanasi, Sarnath and Satna with an option of Khajuraho. If you want his details let me know.
Colleen, I did a quick (very quick) search for local flights with kingfisher and their return flights were around the £220 each mark which seemed wrong.
I will have another look later today.
we have a month there so can spare a day in a internet cafe!
Alright Del......no one likes a show off Only joking I am just jealous as I am only going there for a week
I did have 12 nights pre Xmas though
Mr Jeetly , I loved your report, we love Palolem too , I have stayed there a couple of times and always feel so chilled out there
I dont mind a day or so down south, but I much prefer North Goa - garbage, dirt and all
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