So glad we have stayed away for 2 years... have no thoughts about returning either after all the comments I have been reading!!!! such a shame as we had so many good years in Goa
I'd be interested to know where you have been instead !
Despite some negative observations by myself that I have reported here, I have to say this last trip was as good as any. Candolim opened my eyes to new opportunities ! Whilst staying in Arpora for 18 nights last year we didn't venture on to the beach at Baga once as we had enjoyed walks on the deserted stretches of southern beaches before moving North. As we were only based in the North this time we did venture on to the beach a few times during the evening whist based in Arpora again. My opinion is no different, and was the reason we didn't go last year. I am presumably in a minority when you see the numbers packed on to the Baga to Calangute strip. Having a beer in Britto's shack to watch the sun go down is kind of interesting if nothing else, but something I want limited exposure to. Crowds, watersport mayhem, even as darkness descends. Petrol fumes are order of the day. We didn't consider eating in Brito's despite having had decent reports as it has a warehouse like atmosphere !
Once you walk past the Calangute Steps, things do improve a little but really only when you get to the boundary with Candolim. From there on, although the tide washes up garbage, the beach is somewhat cleaner. Having now moved hotels, we had enjoyable strolls from the southern end of the beach to Candolim Beach Rd most evenings. However, with evidence of discarded bottle tops, and broken glass it pays to be vigilant. I would never venture in to the water, not only because of the currents but due to pollution. Baga creek is a running sewer straight in to the sea. I even saw three drowned kittens floating by on one occassion.
Goa might have changed dramatically in some parts, often for the worse but also for the better in some ways too. The choice of eating places is fabulous, and there are still some unspoilt places if you travel away from the tourist hot spots. I wouldn't return quite so early in November in the future because for the second year running we experienced the tail end of the rains. Goa in a sea of red mud is not too appealing. Diwali coinciding just added to the crowds and the mayhem of congestion on the roads.
I have sworn to go elsewhere next year, but who knows, for the same budget I really need to know where else I can go that ticks all my boxes of food, sunshine, value for money ( Yes, there are places that could cost me a fortune) and for myself, a good variety of avian wildlife to satisfy my photographic hobby.
Please help someone or I may well be back sooner than expected !