well, we got back yesterday from another trip to Malta..having been quite fortunate to go in the first place due to all this volcanic ash.
We actually went on 18 May after having spent the entire weekend wondering whether the closure of Manchester Airport would stop us from going at all. As it was, it re-opened and Thomas Cook telephoned me from our local branch on Monday and told us it was all systems go. We didnt have our original plane..that had been "misplaced on an airfield somewhere" according to the Capt and the one we had had been drafted in from Luton..but the baggage lifting thing had been broken..so it all had to go in manually while we were all sat on the plane. We had loads of extra room as the plane was much bigger than the one lost in the volcanic ash somewhere and me and Rob had a whole row of 4 to ourselves EACH!
The weather in Malta was actually not that pleasant when we arrived and it is most unusual for this time of year..it was cold, cloudy and it was raining! We were staying at Bella Vista in Qawra..which is not our first choice..we have generally stayed up the top end of the island or even over in Gozo..still it was a cheapy. I dont really want to say too much about what we found when we got there as I did a review in the relevant place..but if I told you that the very next day we were on the ferry to Gozo you would get the picture.
Generally we scuba dive..but the seas were rough, it was windy and most dive operators were not operating and they said most dive sites were inaccessable..so we had to find summats else to do..and in Malta there is plenty of you like to explore.It is very cheap to get around. There is a bus terminal in Bugibba/Qawra with regular services to just about everywhere direct and very very cheap. For 3.50 euro's you can get a day ticket and that allows you to hop on and off as many times as you like anywhere you like for that day. You could also buy 3 day and week passes at very reasonable rates. The 48 takes you up to Cirkewwa where the ferry port is and it runs about every 20 minutes. This is a very busy route as it takes in melliha bay and Popeye village too.
The ferries run regularly over to Gozo and you now pay at the Gozo end when you come back rather than at Cirkewwa. It is 5.45euro.
There is a cafe at the dock and also on board.
The terminal at Mgarr in Gozo has had some serious money chucked at it..thoroughly modernised and clean. There are a nmber of buses and taxis that lie in wait to take you anywhere on the Island. We met our friends and headed up to Il Bucket..which is a fine little restaurant over looking the harbour and also with stunning views across to Comino. They offer a selection of pasta dishes, meat dishes, fresh fish, salads and the usual burgers and pizza etc..but I would always ask for the starter portion size..the main course size is HUGE and no-one could complete a meal. Prices are very reasonable. A meal for 4 with 3 lots of drinks and coffee in each was 55euro. There are some roadworks/improvements being done on the main road to Victoria but it should not stop you getting about. We went walking along the cliffs at Sannat, visited our friends in Xaghra and of course had to visit Marselforn and Victoria.
No trip is complete without visiting the Citadel. it is currently being restored and during the course of this, some silo's dating from the 15th century have been uncovered along with 5 massive bells. These are open to the public for viewing but it is hit and miss when as the whole lot is being done by volunteers and if they can't be bothered to open..then they dont! it costs 8euro to enter the citadel itself and that also gives you entry into the museum. The citadel is awesome in its beauty..ladies please coer up your shoulders. There are shawls available for this..and please be respectful. Religious worship still takes place here. The dome is actually a flat roof that has been painted to look like a dome inside. The museum was a little bit disappointing. You are not allowed to take photo's and part of it is closed of. There are some artefacts uncovered in archeology expeditions but mostly it is portraits of long dead bishops and popes etc and a carriage that took some bishop somewhere..oh and there is a chair that Pope John Paul II sat in when he visited. As more parts are being restored, the more parts are opened up for visitors. it is still privately owned by 6 families, one of which still live in a small part..and if anything needs doing for part of the restoration, they have to write to every family and ger permission off every family and they never all agree with each other. Seems such a shame.
Back on Malta..the 86 will take you from Bugibba to Mdina and Rabat via Mosta..i think for about 54cents. Mosta is yet another of thier famous buildings..they have 365 churches..one for each day of the year and most have 2 clocks on set to different times. This is so the devil does not know what time mass is and cannot interfere or gatecrash it. Mosta was where the bomb went through the roof and did not explode in the middle of the packed congregation. The same night..2 other bombs bounced off the building and did not explode either.
We also visited Manoel Island..mainly as Rob was scuba diving that day in the harbour. It was very rough conditions and nothing that I fancied..a couple of shipwrecks. The Island has abit of an unpleasant history as it was used to qauarantine people in the olden days..and how long you were kept there depended on what country you had come from. There was also an old hospital there but it had not been used since the war. The first wreck Rob dived on was an old barge that used to carry supplies to the hospital but it was sank by the Italian bombers and it is the last of its kind anywhere in the worls either over or underwater and so has some sort of heritage preservation on it. We then went to the other side of the harbour right underneath the city walls of Valletta. This area was quite rough and I had to stand guard over the dive van to stop people from robbing off it. The people from Valetta have a special name for the people that live in that area..I can't remember the word but it translates to "below the drains"..nd these people live below the main city walls. There is a cracking view of St Elmo's fort. Rob dived HMS Maori..which was actually guarding the Grand harbour in the war but one night an Italian flare got caught in the rigging, it lit it up and it was sunk. It was a hazard in the harbour so they tried to tow it away round the corner, but it broke in half.
On the 49, you can get into Valetta itself..walk down republicca street and find yourself at The Imperial War Museum. 6 euro entry. it spells out through images, videos, artefacts and equipment just how the war affected the brave islands of Malta and Gozo..and why exactly they deserved the George Cross. It was a very moving experience and made me love the islands more.
1,2 4 or 6 will take you to the 3 Cities''the 3 little fingers jutting out..Sengelea, Capricosa and Vittoriosa..we went to Vittoriosa. This takes you right along the waters edge in the Grand Harbour..where the very rich people keep thier little toy yachts. Oh wow..we strolled along past the Martime museum and were awestruck by the yachts. Mr Abramoviches was by far the biggest yacht there and there was a crew cleaning it. You could also get a tour round the harbour and across to Sliema on a little boat..but we were running out of time. Loads of steps in Valetta..it keeps you fit! oh..and we visted the war memorial too.
Staying in Bugibba/Qawra was abit of an eye opener for us. It is the main place where the English go and also has a large contingency of ex pats. We actually found a bar called Apple Bar run by Silvio (maltese) and Sandra his Geordie wife. This had a great mix of clientele..English ex pats, local maltese and a few tourists. They made us feel very welcome and we had a great night when the Champions league final was on..of course the Maltese wanted Inter Milan to win and there was a great atmosphere. We ended up celebrating a little too hard with some Russians..one of whom was married to a Maltese lass. I thought I could drink voddy but never again am I drinking Vodka with the Russians. it took me 2 days to sober up and I never touched a drop for the rest of the holiday!
I would not be keen to stay in Bugibba again as it is not really my scene..but I can see why it is popular.
my recommendations are:
Place to visit - Imperial war Museum, Valetta..and the entire Island of Gozo ( )
Activity to try - Scuba diving..try up at the top end between Malta and Gozo, many wrecks, small caves, interesting topography and wildlife at various depths to suit all levels of diver.
Place to drink - Apple Bar, Tourist Street, Bugibba..cheap and cheerful, a mix of English and Maltese..but dont drink vodka with the Russians.
Place to eat - Pings Chinese restaurant ( and there is a Pings Thai upstairs) on the road to Fontana, Victoria, Gozo. We has a superb buffet there. Be warned though, it is very popular and you need to book.
and dont forget the Malta buses. Travel is so easy. I didnt want to come home, I have missed loads out of this review..and I cant wait until September when we go back. We will be staying in Marselforn next time.
Tanks for the review Justval - really interesting.
Brilliant Review Val. We are still hoping to get to Gozo/Malta some time in the near future .It's somewhere the boys are keen to dive so that was an interesting read .
There certainly has been a lot of money well spent at Mgarr and it makes it much easier for foot passengers, Cirkewwa must be due to get similar work done?
The bargain for me is getting the bus from Mgarr to Victoria for only a few cents, Victoria and the Citidel are lovely with stunning views out over the green countryside of Gozo.
We are also back in September staying in Marsaxlokk and are really looking forward to that
I'm surprised with your prior knowlege of the islands and that as a scuba diver you allowed yourself to book anywhere near Qawra, a bit like a dieter booking into a chocolate factory on a health farm holiday. Hope you enjoy your next visit more, i'm sure you will.
Brilliant report Val many thanks
I'm surprised with your prior knowlege of the islands and that as a scuba diver you allowed yourself to book anywhere near Qawra
it wasnt our first choice by a long shot...it was a spurr of the moment cheapy. There is a good dive school based in Bugibba who Rob was originally going to do a a Technical 50 course with that are highly recommended within the dive community..so as they are based there, we ended up there. Obviously, with the Island being as it is, most of the diving is accessible via shore diving. In the event, Rob did not do the Tec 50 course and the winds affected the currents and made a vast number of the Malta dive sites inaccessible or too dangerous..no matter where you were based or which dive school you were booked with. In the event, I did no diving and Rob did just 2 at Manoel Island in difficult conditions.
We will not be staying at Bugibba or Qawra again....it is a good place to change buses...but we may visit it for a night out.
I didn't dislike this visit..I always enjoy coming to Malta/Gozo and never want to leave the place..hopefully, when we return in September, the weather conditions will lead to better diving. ( or at least some in my case! )
Good report Justval.
I agree entirely about the friendly atmosphere that the proprietors provide. Well worth a visit.
Another bar for chatting to expats is the Shoebox near to the the San pawl Hote. George the proprietor is great old chap who will regale stories and help with any questions or queries.
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