hi
im partial to the odd puff or two as well & ive never had a problem or been sold a 100R certificate for indulging my habit in goa. most shacks have 'no smoking' signs up but will rush over with an ashtray if they see you lighting up & theres not one on the table already. i think every bar & resteraunt ive been in allows smoking too. (although i refrain in resteraunts as i dont think its fair for other folk eating around me) ive never seen anyone being chastised for smoking either so dont worry you wont have to go & hide behing a loo or a tree something to enjoy a fag! i just wouldnt light up right in front of a tourist or other policeman............no point in asking for trouble!!!
although i was told off in the airport on our first trip as i hadnt found the little spot where everyone has those last puffs before boarding then, a rather gruff looking moustachioed military man snapped 'no smoking' at me..........i moved 4 ft to another row of seats where the other reprebates were indulging ( & this row of seats had 2 big fans positioned to blow our evil smoke away) & he was quite happy with that & left me & all the others alone.
its a bit like election time in goa where all alcohol is banned......you will find most shacks will serve you 'special tea' (beer!!!) in a china teapot with mugs, we were in goa last year during an election & my husb nearly had a fit when he heard about the 'no alcohol rule' but he still managed to drink his usual quota day & night of kingfishers! oooooooops i mean 'special tea'.
same with topless sunbathing, occasionally the tourist police patrol the beach telling women to put their tops back on, people usually oblige but as soon as the police have moved 3 ft away they take them off again & nothing is done & the police seem to not want an argument with a tourist & give up.