Some notes on our trip:
The strike when we arrived was due to the Kashmir government selling forestry land to an out of state organisation about 3 years ago. Non Kashmir's are still not allowed to own land in Kashmir.
Once the strike was over Srinagar seemed as safe as anywhere else in India even though there is a very large police and army presence.
In Kashmir trips outside of Srinagar, especially places such as Lolab, Arahbal and the trip to Kargil and Jammu are probably best done with either Kashmir's you have known for some years or a professional guide.
We had no problems at any of the places we visited but often felt we were the first Europeans to visit in a number of years.
Distances in Kashmir do not seem much but if you average 25-30km per hour you are doing well.
Srinagar to Lolab (110km) took us over 5 hours there and 3 and a half back. Often you need to wait for one way convoys to clear a road before you can go.
The Srinagar to Leh road takes about 16 hours travelling in a Sumo, probably more in a bus or ordinary car. There are convoy times between Sonmarg and Kargil, and Leh and Kargil.
Keep your passports with you all the time you may need them to show them to enter a specific area.
You need permission to go to certain areas, both in Kashmir valley and Ladakh. These are usually easy to arrange but you often need to give 24 hours notice.
Booze in the Kashmir valley is rare, in Ladakh and Mcleodganj it is more easily available. Other substances you can pick at the roadside.
Food in Ladakh and Mcleodganj is mainly vegetarian with some chicken available.
In the Kashmir mutton and chicken are the staple meats with large plates of rice to go with the curries. On the houseboat we could ask for anything we liked, we enjoy spicy food but the two Dutch ladies preferred less spicy and this was provided.
Hospitality in Kashmir families is high, if you visit private houses expect a snack and tea as a minimum, often a full meal, allow at least an hour and often 2.
Dal Lake houseboats are fairly busy, most Indians stay here and parties can go on quite late, there are also lots sellers arriving in shikara's, they are not backward about climbing aboard and sticking their heads into the lounge to try to sell you something. Nageen lake is much quieter and only a few sellers.
ATM's Srinagar has plenty, we found 2 in Leh, There must be one in Mcleodganj but we didn't see it.
Completely different from Goa, Kashmir less commercialised, Leh and Mcleodganj both large tourist centrers with the usual shops etc.
Will we go again, YES!!!
it has certainly been a unique holiday but I'm afraid that until the FO changes its advice( advising against all travel to Kashmir apart from Ladakh) it's not a holiday I would look at. I would imagine that insurance to cover a holiday such as this would be difficult.
Sounds like you had an amazing time, a really good interestiinng report, thanks
A great read, thanks so much, really enjoyed it
I admire the both of you for actually going there, You are both a very very brave couple, or a pair of nutters, But to see what you have seen I would call you brave.
Wonderful report, I know you have been thinking about doing this for some time, well done!! people told us we were mad too!! I havent finished reading it all yet but it has brought back so many memories of Kashmir, we just loved our time there 2 years ago or was it 3!!! we also did a stint on a houseboat for a week but the rest of the times stayed with kashmiri friends and their family it was amazing.... we were there many weeks and have great memories, although the big military prescence is a bit intimidating isnt it. I am going back to comtinue reading on now, looking forward to McCleoud ganj which we also love..
chilly n Mike x
We had a great time in Kashmir and now 2 months later in sunny (sorry it isn't raining here) Colmar (France) we have realsised what a great time we had.
We hope that Kashmir settles down and the Foreign Office changes its advice. It was so similar in some ways with the rest of India and goa, but also so different, much more like north European counties. No Palm gtrees and monkets but plenty of Maple and walnut trees.
We shall be back in goa in January & February and will hopefully attend a few meet ups.
Steve & vanda
really glad you enjoyed it, i had a very sad email from one of my drear friends in kashmir last week to say they are virtual prisoners in their own home, things have gone from bad to worse everything is closed, shops schools etc and they are very frightened, if it hadnt been for the computer we bought him as a thank you after we stayed there for so long he would not have even been able to email as all places are shut ...so sad, as like you I adored kashmir... see you both in Goa
Chilly xx
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