We are recently back from our trip to Puglia. My trip report is below. I hope it helps anyone planning a visit. If you have any questions, just shout.
Sat 1st Aug
We drove down to Stansted, leaving our car at a nearby friends house. There was a mad crush for the Ryanair desks and it seemed absolute chaos with one member of staff running up and down the queues picking out people who's flights were due to close. I found it quite stressful as the atmosphere seemed really tense and we barely had time to by a snack for the plan before legging it to the gate. An hour's delay in take off and a grumpy stewardess on board put me off using them again.
No problems picking up the hire car but we did get slightly lost trying to find our rendezvous point with the guy who was taking us to our trulli. It was fun driving up all the narrow roads in the pitch black! It may have been 11pm by the time we got there but boy was it worth it, the trulli was beautiful.
Sun 2nd Aug
In the daylight we can see properly around the place and the setting is stunning. You feel a world away from the bright lights, it's so peaceful and the pool is lovely. After following the spot on directions we got from Ottavio the property manager we stock up on provisions at the local supermarket in Ostuni and proceed to have a lazy afternoon by the pool to recharge after a days' travelling. We make use of the BBQ in the evening and chill on the patio.
Mon 3rd Aug
We head off to Cisternino for the weekly market. It's colourful and noisy but we're slightly disappointed as there is no fresh produce. We have a wander around the old town and come across a bandstand in one of the squares. The band sound great so we stay and listen for a while.
Sitting the pool later in the day it becomes clear that the remains of the coals that Andy thought had cooled sufficiently from last nights BBQ before throwing them away weren't as chilly as they could have been and promptly set fire to the field! Cue much running around with buckets from the pool. Luckily there was no lasting damage but he'll not live that one down for a while.
Tues 4th Aug
We spend the day as Zoosafari near Fasano. What a great day, I can't recommend it enough. The safari drive is fantastic; we saw all sorts of different animals and you could get really close to them. If I'd been so inclined I was close enough to lean out and pet a tiger. There is also a reptile house, aviary, monkeys and exhibitions. The theme park attached is also a great bargain - any 6 rides for 8E - and no queues, much better than the likes of Alton Towers. I don't know who enjoyed it more the adults or the child!
Wed 5th Aug
We got into Ostuni today and have a wander around the winding streets. We decide to come back in one evening for dinner as it looks like it'll be busy and there are loads of places to eat.
Thurs 6th Aug
Chill day by pool
Fri 7th Aug
Go to Martina Franco & Locoronda today. Both places are very pretty and are nice to simply wander to see what you stumble upon.
Visit nearby restaurant Masseria Maranguilo for dinner as recommended in the guest book. Lovely setting but we fear it isn't open when we arrive at 8pm but of course it's just us being ‘un-Italian' and going out to eat too early. The food was very nice and we got a welcome glass of bubbly. The deep fried aubergine flowers were really quite tasty and the tiramisu was to die for.
Sat 8th Aug
We set off early for Ostuni market, as we wanted some fruit and veg. OMG! I have never seen anywhere so crowded. It seemed the whole town had come out. There were loads of clothes stalls, some second hand, with shoes and handbags coming in a close second. The food market was simply stunning and had everything you could ever want. As we all fruit and veg we bought some fantastic parmesan cheese and some of the local ear-shaped pasta (orichetta I think it's called) and in the evening Marcus made a ragu sauce from some of the stuff we'd bought.
Sun 9th Aug
Very muggy today and clouded over so we decide not to go out anywhere. We could see and hear thunderstorms in the distance but luckily they seemed to pass us by.
Mon 10th Aug
Day trip to Lecce with its fab Baroque architecture. I would recommend this place as the architecture is amazing - it's so OTT in some places you almost laugh out loud. It's a great place for walking as you can come across some lovely balconies and streets just by going up different alleyways. We went to the Museo Provinciale and when we arrived we thought it might still be closed for renovation as there was a couple of guys packing up a van with stuff in bubble wrap. I went in and sure enough they were still doing repairs etc but the guy just waved us through, all very laid back and we were the only ones in. I doubt we'd be allowed to this in the UK! One place I must recommend is the Museo Faggiono (via Ascanio Grani). It's an old house where the owner discovered some roman waterworks and tombs and cisterns whilst making some alterations and makes for a fascinating hour. There's an English guide if you ask at the entrance and it tells you what everything is. At one point it was a convent and my favour bit for the body well where the nuns use to put the decomposing bodies to all the bodily fluids to drip away! It's so assuming from the outside you'd never guess what was hidden inside.
We go into Ostuni for dinner tonight and have a cocktail in the square and stay a while people watching. We head back to the car at around 11pm by which time the crowd of people in the main square has multiplied 3-fold and we like we are leaving a party early!
Tues 11th Aug
Jo & Andy take Georgia back to Zoosafari so we lazy by the pool
Wed 12th Aug
We visit Castellan Grotto. The caves are incredibly long and are lovely and cool after being in the hot sun. There are only a couple of English speaking tours each day and we've just missed on and don't want to wait until 4pm for the next one so just join and Italian one instead. We've got the leaflet in English so it isn't so bad and we can read about the main bits. The white grotto at the end is amazingly white, like a toothpaste ad and not like any I've seen before.
Bad news from Ottavio today, the next guests are not arriving on Sunday as the owner had told us but on Saturday which means we have to be out early on Saturday morning rather than the 5pm we'd planned for and our flight isn't until 9.30pm which is a bummer. It's also a national holiday in Saturday so most places will be closed. There's a hotel nearby and I ask if maybe we could use their pool and shower there so he said he'd see what he could sort out.
Thurs 13th Aug
We were going to go to Matera for the day but it's just too hot so we stay home instead and keep cool by dipping in and out of the pool.
Ottavio has sorted us to have lunch in the hotel on Saturday and we can also us the pool, which is a relief.
Back into Ostuni for dinner. We eat at Le Reggia on the outside terrace which is a great place to people watch. We linger a while and eat later this time so we can take part in the passegiatta. Everywhere is busy again. I love the feel of Ostuni in the evening and it would have been lovely to stay the night.
Fri 14th Aug
OMG! Next time I suggest lemoncello could someone please say NO?! Massive hangover and I spend most of the day lying down, which given that there is a huge thunderstorm and heavy rain is no bad thing.
Sat 15th Aug
We had Ottavio the keys and head for the hotel Citta Bianca. When we arrive it's bouncing and in full on party mode with a disco and karaoke. People are dancing in and out of the pool; whole families are meeting up and making a day of it. The price of 40E includes a set lunch and is our first experience of the long Italian lunch. My word it takes hours! We have sparkling wine and crusty bread, a variety of cold meats, prawn cocktail, crostinis, mini focaccia breads and pasty type pastries. Oh and did I mention that was just the antipasti? Next we have seafood pasta, which is nice. Free wine is also included and flowing freely by now. Then we get a second pasta course which is delicious - baked rigatoni with ragu. OK now we are on to our fish course - mackerel with potatoes and a coleslaw type side dish. There are 3 more courses (1 meat and 2 desserts plus coffee) but I admit defeat. We all decide to leave the table and lie down for a bit as it's now 4pm (we sat down at 1.15pm) and we have to leave around 5.30pm for the airport.
I have to say Ottavio did us proud, that last meal will be one of my lasting memories of our holiday in Puglia.
I enjoyed the food, the people, the scenery and sightseeing but I can honestly say I'm pleased the boys were driving"¦"¦
Next year on my annual family visit to Pugila, I will visit the Zoosafari on your recommendations. I guess my dads place is not that far from where you stayed as he lives between Ostuni and Caravigno.
I have to agree the market is quite something. What temperature was it when you were there? It got to 36 in the shade when I was there beginning of June. On the down side my dad has no pool to cool down in just a cellar.
Kath x
Great report, it sounds as though you had a lovely holiday. It's 38years since I was last in Puglia and a lot of the Trullis were in ruins. Having seen pictures of some renovations that have taken place they really look lovely. Did you use an agency for renting or some other source? Your report has whet my appetite and I might look into a holiday in Puglia next year.
Many thanks for your report..
Judith
Judith I used the holidaylettings website. This is the one we stayed in - http://www.holidaylettings.co.uk/rentals/ostuni/54605
What a great and informative trip report, thanks for sharing with us. x
sounds great can you tell me whay the villa was called that you stayed in or the rental company
http://www.holidaylettings.co.uk/rentals/ostuni/54605
Hope that's of some help. You will need a car if you pick this one, nothing is within walking distance but the setting is beautiful
Hi Jenny, we used holiday lettings, this is the one we stayed in - Hope that's of some help. You will need a car if you pick this one, nothing is within walking distance but the setting is beautiful
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