We are just back from our honeymoon in Tanzania and Zanzibar and I thought I would post a few thoughts just in case anyone is considering these destinations.
Tanzania - 4 nights at Selous Safari Camp, Selous Game Reserve. Southern Parks.
This place is amazing. There are 13 tents, and staff really look after you (regardless of whether you are honeymooners or not). The service is very personal, and first class. Apparently you have to "work hard for your game viewing" in the Selous, but we saw everything we wanted to see (apart from leopard). They don't cram you into jeeps (only 4 people in ours) and they have a policy of no more than 3 cars per animal. On all our drives, we only ever saw one other jeep from our camp. Most of the time, we'd come back from 4 or 6 hour drives having seen nothing but animals and bush.
They arranged breakfast out on the lakeside for 2 mornings of our stay. And a private lunch on our veranda one day. Some people were given private dinner instead.
The tents are luxurious, and the food is good. You pay for drinks, but you can get a good bottle of wine for about £10 - £15, and beer isn't expensive.
The beauty of this location is that you can do a boat safari (dodging hippos) or a bush walk, or game drives. All of which were great for seeing different aspects of the Selous.
According to various guides in the camp, the Selous is the most prestigious game park in the Safari "industry", as for a guide, it's the most natural environment the animals can be in. Our experience there will certainly stay in our hearts forever.
Zanzibar - 7 nights at Ras Nungwi Beach resort. North of Island.
It took a little while to get out of safari mode. This is a beautiful location and excellent "hotel" but with 32 rooms, we found it "big" after spending time in a smaller lodge. Mostly honeymooners here, many of whom don't want to mix with other couples, which is a shame. We found ourselves in a routine of getting up early (for some stunning sunrises) and going to bed early... the bar was mostly deserted by about 10.30pm.
The food is superb... chef Lars really knows how to cook and throws some stunning combinations together (chicken and banana soup, anyone?). At breakfast he would usually have fresh out of the oven scones on the buffet.
The service here isn't as personal or warm as at Selous, but still pretty good.
From Ras Nungwi, you can do several watersports (deep sea fishing, diving, snorkelling, sunset cruises). They also have kayaks & windsurfing gear, and if the wind is up, every afternoon you'll be treated to a display of kite surfing by the hotel manager and his pals.
The ocean is tidal - so you can only swim at certain times of the day. Other times you can just walk out in the lagoon for ages, and only be knee high. There's a pool here, though, if you need to cool off.
Trips by mini-bus are available, but expensive (better done from the capital, Stonetown) and the very bumpy road into Ras Nungwi puts you off wanting to go out by car again during your stay!
Walking round to Nungwi village is interesting, and there is a small turtle sanctuary which is worth spending half an hour at.
All in all, a great resort, but maybe 7 nights was a bit too long for us. 4 or 5 would have been sufficient, with hindsight.
Zanzibar - 4 nights at The Palms resort, South East of island.
The Palms is an incredible (and expensive) resort on the South East coast. It has only six luxury villas, and this part of the trip was our real honeymoon "treat". I'm so glad we splashed out - it was fantastic. Food and drink are all inclusive. You don't seem to go more than 2 hours without somebody bringing you something. Lunch is a 4 course affair, served in the pool bar. Dinner could be up to 8 courses if you wanted them all, and is served in the "Plantation House" dining room, complete with chandeliers! The food is first class. There is lobster on the menu every day. The seafood and fish here are great.
The other guests (during our stay) were lovely. All very down to earth and appreciative of the surroundings.
The beach here is beautiful. You could walk for miles and see very few people. There is a beach resort (Breezes hotel) next door, which is a sister hotel to Palms, and Palms guests use a lot of their facilities for free. That looked a good hotel too, with about 80 rooms.
They do various watersports and boat trips from here. We did a good snorkelling trip.
The ocean is tidal, and you can swim off the beach at least once a day. The rest of the time you can go looking for star fish but you do need aqua shoes as there were a lot of sea urchings. There is a pool at Palms.
Basically, once you're in the Palms, you just don't want to leave. It's amazing how soon you get used to the opulence, and being waited on hand and foot!
Zanzibar - 1 night Serena Inn, Stonetown.
Stonetown is a great place from which to do trips, or just explore the town itself. We hired a guide outside our hotel (they have licenced guys there) who charged us $15 each for a 3 hour walking tour including entrance fees to a few museums. And he got us a coke and cake! Great guy, very knowledgeable. We wouldn't have seen half as much on our own.. even using our guide book.
At night, you need to be careful where you go. It is an experience to walk through the narrow, busy streets, but not too late! We had dinner at the Towertop restaurant of Emerson & Green hotel (a tourist "must-do"!) which was very good. For a total of $70 we got about 8 courses, 2 drinks and 2 bottles of wine. They also escort you home to your hotel if you aren't staying with them.
Serena Inn was fine, has a nice pool, which is handy to wash of the dust and heat of the town after your walk. We only stayed one evening, so can't really comment much on the hotel.. it was more or less somewhere to sleep.
The people of Zanzibar are very nice. Even in Stonetown - where I was expecting them to be harsh and cynical. The village life is a very simple, day to day existence, and I was expecting a lot of hassle from children etc. They do try it on, but aren't persistent if you say no to their attempts to sell you "photographs" of themselves, or go to their shop.
All in all, the whole experience was fantastic, and we feel enriched by it in so many ways... it isn't just all about luxury and quality of accommodation. You can do Zanzibar fairly inexpensively.
I would say - go now, before it gets over developed and commercialised. Part of me doesn't want it to change before I go back, but I know it will!
Hope this is useful to anyone thinking about these places... happy to answer any questions.
I am in Tanzania now, at Kilimanjaro and heading towards Zanzibar next week. Very interesting post , lot of good advice. Would you by chance have the prices of the resorts that you stayed at ?
Regards
Dr. Ambert
I wonder if you would like to do hotel reviews for us? I have asked for these to be added to the reviews section just in case!
I am considering going to do the Tanzania safari and a 5 night beach stay on zanibar. Everyone I say this too says that the place is too dangerous, we may get robbed, kidnapped or killed. Some people are saying go you will love it. I will be taking an 11 year old daughter with me and peoples comments are starting to worry me. Having gone yourself did you feel frightened about your security?
I would appreciate your comments.
Thank you
I am 'leading' a group to Tanzania (8 day safari and 5 nights on Zanzibar) in June 2006. It struck me that this might be a good way for you to do it. I visited Zanzibar a few years ago with a friend and we felt very safe; even walked around at night without mishap, from restaurant to hotel. (2 women.) I think an 11 year old would love the whole experience but of course would have to take malaria prophilactics and the other recommended immunisations and innoculations. (I lived in Zanzibar as a child,many years ago, and survived, in fact it was an idyllic childhood!) We live in Canada now, but if you found a similar group leaving from the UK perhaps you and your family would feel more comfortable and secure?
I just received an email today from a friend who also grew up in Zanzibar and she had received a press report from a friend living there. Apparently there have recently been armed robbery attacks at three or four coastal hotels, (including Nungwi Village) and robbers have got away with thousands of dollars. It also states that there is apprehension about roaming the streets in Stone Town as shops have also been robbed. At the end of a long fairly disturbing report the Minister of Tourism is quoted as saying that there are just as many tourists visiting as previously and that tourism has hardly been affected!?
I am going to make back up plans for next June in case the situation does not improve; I shall make enquiries about accomodation in Lamu and Malindi on the Kenya coast, because it is great to relax by the sea after a safari. But I'll be keeping my fingers crossed for Zanzibar!
Fiona... I will post hotel reviews as soon as I get chance.
Dr Ambert - apologies, I am too late to answer you now.
abgoodwinuk - I hadn't heard of any "danger" before we booked our trip. I was aware of problems on Pemba (remember the British schoolkids who were robbed and hurt) but I took the view that I wasn't going to be in any resort where it was likely I'd put myself in danger. Magmum's suggestion of going with a tour is a good one.
We used zanzibardirect.uk.com. Jim - they guy who runs it - is incredibly helpful and will be very honest with you about the potential downsides. He spent hours helping us put our trip together, and never once pushed us to make a booking.
I felt very safe throughout our trip. I wouldn't wander about Stonetown late at night.... when we ate dinner at Emerson and Green hotel, they sent a porter back with us to walk us back to our hotel. They had tried to send us in a Tuk Tuk but we wanted to walk, and they were very obliging about giving us an escort. We were only in Stonetown for one afternoon and evening. In the afternoon we hired a local tour guide, who gave us a fantastic walking tour for a really good price. Maybe all of this combined, meant I felt safe there. I have our guide's email address if anybody wants to contact him... he did say he could arrange "anything" on the island, and given the number of people he stopped to chat to during our trip, I would say he could!
I will say this - we booked expensive accommodation (holiday of a lifetime sort of thing) and both beach hotels had guards on the beach and gated entrances with security. Maybe that helped me feel safer. I didn't hear any stories of trouble while we were there.
magmum - I am sorry to learn about what you heard. Like you, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for Zanzibar... such a beautiful place.
We'll be flying via Nairobi, I've been told that we will need a visa for Kenya and another for Zanzibar, is this correct?
We'll be staying at Breezes Beach Club and hopefully doing a fair bit of sightseeing, is it expensive to eat and drink in the towns? Also, does anyone know what sort of prices they charge for drinks in the hotels, we need to plan for spending money.
What about trips? Is it better (and safe) to organise these locally or through the tour operator?
Any info would be gratefully received.
The last time I was in Zanzibar I found drinks and food inexpensive but that may have changed, I'm sure there are people on this forum who have been more recently. I was there in the nineties.
You will love the island because it has so much history and the architecture is a picturesque blend of African, Arab and European, the people friendly and very helpful.
There have been some disturbing reports coming out of the island of armed robberies on coastal resorts and shops in Stone Town. However I have friends living there who have assured me that the reports are exaggerated by the press and one, who now lives in Canada, has just spent 2 months there and had a wonderful, peaceful time. There are also warnings by the Canadian government about Unguja, (Zanzibar) and Pemba islands for "banditry".
We shall be going on safari in Tanzania prior to visiting the coast and the game parks are included in these warnings. They don't seem to have affected tourism though, because I am told that hotels are totally full for many 2006 bookings. In fact they have been over-booking and I heard of a group having to spend the night in their minivans because their rooms had been double booked. It would be worthwhile confirming hotel bookings before departure and get it in writing...although in the event this might not make a difference! Most reputable companies will not confirm bookings with clients until they have been reassured themselves that the rooms will definitely be available.
Have a wonderful holiday...who knows we may bump into you!
Maggie
We stayed in Palms next door to Breezes which was All Inclusive so I don't know what prices they charge for drinks there.
Breezes is a beautiful hotel, and the beach is lovely. Tidal, though.
In Ras Nungwi hotel we were paying about $20 for a good bottle of South African wine. Beer was $3 dollars a bottle (large bottle) and also very good - they had about 9 varieties. It wasn't overly expensive.
We didn't eat out of the hotels (apart from our last night, in Stonetown) so I have no idea what the prices were like... I should guess a bit cheaper than in hotels. If you're in Breezes, they tend to only do day time sight seeing trips, and get you back to the hotel for the evening. It's a bit off the beaten track....
I found the Cadogan guide to Tanzania and "mini" Rough Guide to Zanzibar very good. I would recommend investing in them, particularly if you want to see around the island - will help you decide where to go, and how to get there.
From Breezes, you'll find that the hotel will run trips... and they're not cheap. The cheapest way to explore seems to be from Stonetown. We rang our tour operator on the Island (Zantours) about a trip to the Monkey Forest on the way back from Palms to Stonetown, and he was trying to charge us $128. We managed to barter him down quite a lot, seeing as they were driving past it to take us back to town!!!!
I think in the hotels they do combined packages where you'll get a discount for booking more than one trip, but be aware that you'll need to budget a good few hundred dollars each if you want to get around.
This is a great website for finding out about hotels..
http://www.africatravelresource.com/africa/e/zanzibar/accommodation/Z/Z08/00.htm
and I found some reviews of Breezes here:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g482884-d497502-r3997650-Breezes_Beach_Club-Zanzibar_Zanzibar_Archipelago.html
You'll love it!
We did the tours of the island very cheaply from Stone Town through M&M tours. You can book them through the Hotels; we liked our first driver and stayed with him throughout. He also took us around areas where there were no tours. There were places I hadn't seen since I was a child there and so he went out of his way to accomodate us. Certainly try and stay a couple of nights in Stone Town and book tours from there.
We have bought the Bradt travel guide which was the only one we could find on Zanzibar but I'll definately be looking out for the others that you have recommended. We'll be there from 6th to 16th June.
Cheers!
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