Uneventful drive to Manchester - found car park OK!
Check-in was painless, slightly over but no charge (note to self - we're gonna get hammered coming back). Slight 'domestic' over GW not pre-booking seats - both allocated aisle seats.
Tortuous flight approx. 9.30 hrs direct, although we were supposed to stop at Abu Dhabi. Arrived at Dabolim about 7am on Monday morning. Found cases after they'd been 'helpfully' removed from the carousel by one of the porters - fought the wee feckers off and eventually made it on to the bus - it's raining .
Realising that we were going nowhere fast, I got back off the bus and found the ATM (come out of the main Exit and it's on the right). Realised I'd withdrawn the equivalent of 3 quid, so had to go back. (hope I'm not supposed to tip the wee guy!)
Day 1 6/11
Cracks on bridge so it's about a three hour transfer to Arpora (Marinha Dourada) via Ponda, Old Goa. Still raining.
Arrive at the MD about 11am, couldn't face brekkie - too knackered. Quick room change (obviously we'd unpacked before Mrs GW decided it wasn't to her liking) then it's off to the pool - by midday the skies had cleared and it was glorious.
GW off for a quick scout around - came out the MD turn left and off down by the Baga river. Spoke to David, the stall holder, who helpfully pointed out that J & A's was right next door to him (just as well - as by this time the I was blinded by the sun tan lotion streaming in to my eyes).
Walked down to J & A's later - very nice meal although probably pricey by Goan standards. Early night, both knackered.
Day 2 Tues 7/11
Up early-ish and breakfasted at the MD (just as bad as I'd been led to believe, although it was to improve as the holiday went on - slightly)
Shuttle bus to Baga - big mistake. Sorry guys but Baga just isn't for me - too busy (and this was the first week in November) with too much hassle. Resisted the 'temptation' to make any purchases but eventually succumbed to the third offer of a foot massage. (Apparently I wasn't relaxed - is it any bloody wonder?) Beat a hasty retreat back to the MD mid-afternoon for some R & R.
Taxi to Tito's Lane pm in an attempt to locate Citrus. Found it - no signs of life. Walked down to Calangute and eventually tracked down the Plantain Leaf - excellent meal and ridiculously cheap.
Walked back up to Baga and jumped a taxi back to MD for a few nightcaps.
Day 3 Wed 8/11
Got a Taxi outside the MD to Ashvem (700R rtn). This is more like it - quiet, sunny, warm, picturesque and good for swimming. Too hot to eat, stayed 'til 4 then Taxi to MD lay at pool for a while.
Taxi to Baga - settled on Fiesta - fairly good, nice location. Back to MD on Tuk Tuk - bit bumpy (remember to take taxi home next time).
Day 4 Thurs 9/11
Shuttle bus to Baga (I know, I said never again) within seconds we had to get away. Jumped a Taxi to Small Vagator (400R rtn)- nice wee beach, plenty of coos and dugs (not a problem) and loads of wee lassies selling the usual tat who were fascinated by Mrs GW's white skin.
Nice lunch at Sharmina's - the lemon lassi was delicious. Back to the beach and more of the hard sell and then the soft cell - eventually I cracked and bought some tat only to be chastised by one of the other sellers who I'd told earlier I wasn't buying - you can't win.
Rtn to MD for a quick dip in the Jacuzzi and steam room.
Ventured a bit further tonight down to Little Italy in Candolim (this was the first time we used DK's taxi). Very nice setting, lovely food, excellent service, couple of spots of rain and sighting of a rat.
Met DK after then 'home.'
Day 5 Frid 10/11
Shuttle to Baga, booked trip to Dudsaghar Falls for tomorrow. Jumped taxi up to Ashvem,.lunch @ Golden Goa shack - not the best. Went for long walk on the beach. Whether it was the shack or the heat (very warm that day) in the taxi home I started to feel a bit seedy, culminating in a dash at the MD straight to the WC at reception, then a brisk walk back to the room.
Friday night wasn't good, didn't go out but did manage to catch a Woody Allen film.
Day 6 Sat 11/11
Up early for brekkie feeling a bit better, picked up @ 08.45 and deposited in Candolim @ John's Boat Trips office. Got on the minibus for 2+ hrs trip to Dudsaghar, then transferred to 4 wheel drive for a further 1+hr to the waterfall (but bumpy - but feeling ok, so far).
15 minutes or so walk led us to the pool at the foot of the falls stayed for an hour or so having a dip in the cool waters and 'enjoying' our packed lunch. However, turned out my stage in the recovery from Delhi Belly wasn't as advanced as I'd thought prompting a third, unscheduled plunge into the cool and cleansing waters. Back to the jeep.
Halfway there one of the vehicles got stuck on the embankment meaning we were delayed for an hour or so. Much to-ing and fro-ing by guides and drivers (too many Chiefs and Indians). During this delay an impatient slightly inebriated driver (thereafter known as 'Feni-baws') decides to charge down the embankment the opposite way narrowly missing our stationary vehicle. This prompted an angry exchange with one of the other drivers who earned himself a slap from old 'FB.' (Entertaining if nothing else, we were soon on our way).
Trip back without much incident, save for the back window blowing out on the bridge from Panjim. Tea @ MD - food not that bad, although not great then a visit to Mackies night market for an hour or so. Very hot with plenty of wee beasties buzzing about.
Day 7 Sun 12/11
Pretty quiet day after exertions of yesterday and the effects of the stomach upset, spent the day at hotel then an evening stroll to J&A's for tea. Stopped off at David's stall bought a couple of things (he must have seriously ripped us off 'cause he gave us a freebie as we were leaving).
Day 8 Mon 13/11
Short walk to Lila's Cafe for breakfast (there's only so many times you can do the MD's breakfast) v. nice - muesli and croissant.
Walked in to Baga a caught a taxi to Panjim for a couple of hours shopping - about two hours too long as it turned out. Made a couple of purchases but couldn't wait to get back to the MD.
Spent the rest of the day there and in the evening made our first visit to All Spice (My Delhi Belly was by now passed). What can I say, the meal was excellent, the staff were attentive and that bill surely can't have been right!
Back to the MD and the entertainment was in full swing - limbo dancing, fire juggling and then some Indian Bints dancing in costumes not unlike Christopher Lee in the Wicker Man. A combination of that and the Honey Bee made for some interesting dreams that night.
Day 9 Tues 14/11
Breakfast at the MD picking up slightly, well proper tea at least. Decided on Mandrem today and met couple at reception who'd been there yesterday - that settled it.
Nice drive up in taxi, slightly further out than Ashvem, sea a bit rougher. Slightly unnerved by the 6ft plus Indian gentleman roaming the beach wielding a coconut and a machete exclaiming "Nice coconut, very healthy, very good for you" none too keen on taking no for an answer. Very warm today, stayed 'til 4.30 then back to MD.
Taxi to Titos Lane - Citrus still shut, open tomorrow but apparently not veggie anymore. Got Malaria tabs then walked down to Calangute in search of opticians- none open. Jumped Tuk Tuk to Little Italy. Nice meal too much as usual.
Couple of HB's on the way back to room.
Day 10 Wed 15/11
Stroll down to Lila's for breakfast (MD's really starting to drag). Walked back to MD for taxi to Ashvem. Stayed from 11-4, spot of lunch at Golden Goa shack - so-so.
Taxi back to Anjuna, arriving about 4.30. V. Busy but starting to quieten down. As usual I was left to do the haggling, made a few purchases. Fought off a few beggars. Taxi back to MD. Realised that the 'sparkly box' that the stallholder was so keen to flog me contained 3 pair of earrings (didn't feel ripped off - for once!)
Showered and taxi to Calangute to find optician. Picked a couple of frames at Dangui just along and across from the Plantain Leaf - ready on Sat pm.
Taxi back to All Spice for another great meal - becoming a real favourite. Stagger back to MD for nightcap.
Day 11 Thurs 16/11
Headed out for taxi 10-ish to the Spice Plantation. Lucky enough to get DK again (aka the 'wee smiley guy'). Trip took about 1.5hrs to get there.
Very pretty setting, elephant already enjoying a wash (& enjoying washing the woman on its back) as we crossed the bridge.
Quick tour of the plantation, then buffet lunch (300R).
Back to MD " 14.30 for some R & R.
Walked down by the riverside - v.warm tonight. Had dinner at Sublime. Deafened by the noise of the construction vehicles at the new road, serious amount of mozzies (glad I wore Avon's finest - Skin So Soft), nice decor, choice of food not great (for us veggies). The food was nice but there wasn't enough of it.
Taxi 'home.'
Day 12 Frid 17/11
Breakfast @ Lila's then taxi to Mandrem. Very busy, lucky to get sunbed, waves pretty high and quite windy.
Lunch @ shack consisting of Paneer Kebabs and Veggie Pakora (better than Golden Goa down the road @ Ashvem).
Rest of afternoon spent sunbathing (Mrs GW lost watch)
Taxi back to MD, couple of sundowners then walked to All Spice. Washed a brilliant dinner down with a couple of Honey Bees, then home.
Day 13 Sat 18/11
Breakfast @ MD (pretty woeful), am @ poolside then walked to Lila's for lunch - weather a bit cloudy and hazy today.
Set off for Calangute in taxi to pick up glasses - they'd arrived about 10 minutes before we did.
Jumped Tuk Tuk back up to Baga to Alum Arts jewellers to Mrs GW could buy some stuff.
Walked up to Brittos for tea - comfort food Veggie Pie. Taxi to Mackie's Night market - usual scrum.
Glad it's only five minutes up the road!
Day 14 Sun 19/11
Bit cloudy and hazy again, sat @ pool am, then lunch @ Lila's (omelettes were excellent)
Back to MD pm. Later walked down to Hibiscus at the ugly box bridge to check out the menu, carried on to Baga and jumped the shuttle bus back up.
Dinner @ Hibiscus that night. Not a big Chinese hand but the meal was very good and we wished we'd eaten here earlier in the holiday.
Sun 15 Nov
That's all folks - save for a fairly unpleasant return trip home (well it was via Dabolim).
Queued to get in to the terminal building, queued to get the bags x-rayed, queued to check-in and get ripped off for excess baggage , queued to get the visa stamped, queued again for something else and then go on the plane after only an hour delay.
All in all a pretty eventful holiday. Will we be back? Hopefully someday, although we haven't quite got 'the bug.'
The food was consistently good and the Goans extremely friendly. If only we didn't have Dabolim at the either end of the trip (and a 10 hour flight) it would have been just about perfect.
The best thing about the holiday (if you take away the breakfast) probably the Marinha Dourada. Every review we read rated it and I can see why - it really was nice to get back each day to some peace and tranquillity.
Thanks to everyone on the HT Messageboard for all the advice and info..
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Edited by
GeeDubya
2006-12-14 12:15:53