We visited Yasmine Hammamet back in September. Seems like a lifetime ago now, but the Sahara trip was something we felt just had to be done - being so close to it and then coming home without going would have been such a wasted opportunity. I won't lie and say its a relaxing 2 days because its not. There are early mornings, long distances to be covered by coach and a lot of this in the heat of the midday sun. What you do get though is so rewarding, its hard to put into words or describe the emotions.
If you take things on a very basic level and you get a great two days. Go deeper though and try to stay awake for the whole of the two days coach travelling... then you will really see Tunisian life, warts and all. You'll see families playing, animals grazing on the grass verges alongside the main roads, elaborate costumes, bizarre monuments on roundabouts and other such odd things that will make you smile. But as a warning you'll also see things that might upset you, like dead animals by the side of the road or freshly slaughtered sheep hanging on hooks (with tomorrows offering happily grazing underneath it).
On the first day its an early start as you travel from your hotel to El Jem and then via a brief stop at Mahres on the coast down to Gabes and then inland to Matmata. Here you have lunch and then might visit a Troglodyte house before a long drive to Douz. This road is the first real sign of the desert as it stops being rocky and biblical in appearance and starts becomes to become more sandy looking. Overnight stop in Douz (but not before the Camel ride to see the sun going down over the Sahara). When we arrived at our hotel there was no electric, but you could still bathe as the water here is naturally thermally heated. The hotel had a sort of colonial feel that was very charming. Next day its another wake up call to see the sunrise over the salt lakes (our coach was late so we missed it - but it was cloudy anyway) before driving over to an oasis at Degache. Here you can take a horse driven buggy ride through the date plantation before hopping onto the Landcruisers for the next part of the journey. You're really getting out in to the edges of the desert now as you head along to Chebika oasis which is fed by one single source of water the seeps from the Atlas mountains into a beautiful turquoise pool. Then onto Tamerza to a magnificent waterfall before meeting back up again with the coach in Metlaoui. Its then onto Gafsa for lunch, and after a quick stop at Jelma its the last leg back to your hotel. I won't give the game away by telling how far you've travelled because that's something that the tour guides like to tease you with.
And talking of tour guides, if you happen to go from Thomson's and get a slightly rotund guy with a thickset moustache called Mohammed then you are in the best hands possible. The guy is a legend and can't do enough for you. Very knowledgeable and willing to answer any question you might throw at him. He even gave our coach a very quick history of Islam that did more for peace relations than you'd get in 50 years of political negotiations. He is genuinely someone whose touches you, as you have just put your well-being in his hands for the last 48 hours.
A few tips - well, grab a good seat on the coach if possible, take a cpl of loo rolls and wet-ones if possible as the toilets are dodgy to say the least, plus have some small change for tipping at the loos... Plenty of water is obvious, as are some snacks (especially if the idea of Tunisian cuisine doesn't appeal to you, or if you are just wary of food you haven't made yourself). A good sun-cream is vital as you will be outside at the most fiercest times of the day. You are somewhat herded around the place a little bit, particularly at food stops, but these coaches are running to strict time limits. On the camel ride be wary of the men on horses as they will try to fleece you for taking pics of them (whether you did or not). I got the impression that they look out for red lights on camcorders as well. At the Landcruisers, the longer it takes you to get off the coach the further up the convoy you'll be, so if you like to see exactly where you are going with no vehicles in front of you, make sure you dawdle a bit here. My last tip is to stay awake as much as possible, especially in the early mornings and in the desert - its hard in the heat but its worth it.
There are probably different times when you should use different cameras - certain things happen very quickly so always keep your handheld or digi camera handy, but on something like the buggy ride on day 2 just keep your video camera rolling as its not to long of a ride and the riot when the horses all arrive by the coach is amazing to see. If you do have a digital camera then just take as many pictures as you can as you'll have plenty of time to delete the naff ones when you are back on the coach. Take plenty of media cards for your camera as they are very hard to get hold off out there.
You'll see so much and learn so much that the only word to describe it is an 'Experience'. And so much of it will be personal only to you.
The oddest thing that occured to us was being driven through the desert whilst listening to the radio playing the damn Bee-Gees... My three favourite sights over the two days were a road signpost showing you which way to go for Tripoli, a hedgerow built of dried palm leaves which had a gate made from the door of a beige and white VW camper van, but the best overall was simply the smiles on people faces whenever you met them.
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Edited by
smarc
2006-04-02 15:52:35