Thomson Celebration
North Cape Explorer from Harwich
24 July to 6 August 2005
Overall rating – a nice ship, generally in good condition, offering an enjoyable holiday and good value for money. Generally very good food in the Restaurants, spacious comfortable cabins, always possible to find space to relax, something for everyone. The staff are mainly friendly and efficient and good at dealing with problems quickly. The ship has the potential to offer excellence and sometimes achieves it, but some issues need addressing.
This was our first proper cruise, but my second time on Celebration – I had spent two nights on board for the shakedown cruise in May, and had been so impressed by the ship that I booked this holiday.
EMBARKATION
Arriving at Harwich at 1:30, check in had been advertised as between 2 and 4pm, but boarding had already started. There were no queues for check in which was very efficient and we boarded within 10 minutes.
CABIN
Initial impressions of our cabin were poor – cabin 614, forward port side on deck 2. The cabin was pleasant enough, spacious, with lots of drawers and hanging space. However, it smelt strongly of stale cigarette smoke. Thomsons have a policy that smoking is "permitted, but not encouraged". A bit of a daft policy – and an ashtray was available in the cabin. There are no dedicated smoking and non-smoking cabins.
It got worse. My partner has worked for a major hotel chain, and knows first hand how adept cleaners can be at making rooms look superficially clean. If we stay in a hotel for a weekend we never unpack completely, we hang clothes but use our suitcase instead of drawers. However, we were going to be on Celebration for two weeks, so we wanted to unpack properly and make ourselves at home. A damp cloth wiped across the inside of the drawers quickly turned from white to grey. The outside of the wardrobes and drawers turned the cloth brown. At this stage we decided to closely inspect the cleanliness of the rest of the cabin. The cabins are designed with easy clean wipe down surfaces. There was evidence of staining and detritus throughout the cabin. On checking the carpets, we found a lot of hair, and the ultimate "yuck" – a toenail clipping. The inside of the bathroom cabinet had toothpaste stains.
We spent the next 15 minutes cleaning the bathroom, wardrobes and drawers. We called the housekeeping manager and showed him the state of the cabin, pointing out the stains, hair etc. We decided not to unpack until the cabin was properly cleaned. We also checked the beds and found hair on the blankets. We called reception and asked for the carpet to be vacuumed, the blankets to be changed, and some air freshener to be sprayed. When we returned to the cabin later on, we had clean blankets, the carpet had been shampooed and the room smelt fresh. A bottle of wine and a note of apology were left in the cabin later in the evening. However, the walls were not wiped down during our two weeks on board, and judging by the level of grime which we easily removed from the wardrobe and drawer exteriors, I don’t think the cabin had had a deep clean since the ship entered service 3 months earlier. Apart from the cleanliness problems, the cabin was well serviced in that towels were changed twice daily, beds were made each morning and turned down each night with chocolates on the pillows.
FOOD
We had lunch that first day in the Lido buffet – the only option for lunch on embarkation day. Again, this does not give a good first impression. Drinks service was slow; a main course was roast beef, which was tasty but tough, with a pork gravy and no Yorkshire pudding. My partner was by this time wondering why I had previously raved about the high standards on this ship.
The main restaurant is the meridian – waiter service with open sittings for all meals. We tried to go in to dinner at 7:30 and asked for a table for two. We were asked to return half an hour later, and assured a table would be available. Returning at 8pm, the situation was worse – there was now a long queue of people waiting for tables, and the Maitre D (Cesar) had just started a wait list. He was very apologetic, and said this had never happened before.
We got a table for two after about 10 minutes, and on subsequent nights we went for dinner between 8 and 8:30. We never had a problem getting a table again. We ate in Meridian for most meals, and were always greeted by the same Head Waiter who always managed to find us a table for two. Meals in Meridian were generally very good and sometimes excellent. This is not P & O – don't expect to feast on smoked salmon and lobster every night (although they do push the boat out on formal nights) – but the menus were imaginative with the chef making delicious meals from cheaper ingredients (delicious lamb shanks one night, for example). Soups were always home made and excellent. There was always a choice of two salads, and I think there was no repetition over the two weeks. The ice cream was excellent. Service was inconsistent – usually good, sometimes excellent, but poor on a couple of occasions with long waits between courses. The wine waiters were normally good, and several waiters remembered our names (which was amazing as we moved around a lot so we didn't have regular waiters). On a couple of occasions, I didn't see a wine waiter until I had started my main course. When service was poor, it was hard to catch anyone's eye, and the standard of service bore no relation to how busy the restaurant was.
Breakfast and lunch in Meridian were usually quiet, even on sea days, with most people seeming to prefer the Lido buffet. The wide range of options for breakfast included eggs benedict, kippers, full English, and a daily special (which always seemed to be quiche!) The black pudding was excellent, but the orange juice wasn't very good. Breads and pastries were (of course) freshly made on board, and very good.
One reason why we chose the Celebration was because of the casual dress code and free dining options. We would not like to be forced to eat at the same time each day sitting with a group of strangers. We didn’t take formal dress, so ate in the Lido buffet on the two formal nights. These were probably the best nights to eat in the Lido - it was quiet and the food was quite good. In the evening, the Lido has a better atmosphere than at other times with the tables laid with cloths, napkins, cutlery, and lamps. However, the wine/water service could be slow, even though the restaurant was quiet. Eating breakfast or lunch there, one feels one is in a canteen, queuing for meals with a tray, getting cutlery at the counter, and getting mediocre food (the buffet on DFDS ferries is better quality.)
We had afternoon tea in the Lido on port days when we missed lunch. Excellent sandwiches (crab, duck, pork with apple, wraps and vegetarian options) and delicious home made scones with cream and jam. However, the tea/coffee service was always unbearably slow and after a few days we started helping ourselves to tea and coffee.
We also tried the "A la Carte" restaurant "Mistrals" twice (the menu changes weekly). The menu here was made of more expensive ingredients – clam chowder, lobster, excellent steak, crepe suzettes. The tables were well dressed and the service was excellent. The restaurant is small, and all tables are close to the windows. A delicious sorbet was served before the main course, petits fours were served with the coffee, and small boxes of chocolates are presented with the bill. Eating here carried a cover charge of £15.00 each, and we thought it was well worth the money.
Wine was good value at £11 to £15 for a decent bottle.
BARS & ENTERTAINMENT
Excellent value for money. We worked through the cocktail list at £2.90 a time. We usually went to Horizons for the fantastic views from deck 9 forward. Good service, friendly waiters who remember your name, nice live music from SP3 - a pianist and lounge singer. Horizons is split between smoking and non-smoking sections.
We also enjoyed Explorers Lounge, a non smoking lounge on deck 5 where the Evergreen Trio (piano, violin and cello) play light and light classical music. Both Horizons and Explorers have the atmosphere of a five star hotel.
Only one complaint about the bars – they sometimes (understandably) run out of fresh ingredients, but they make unsuitable substitutions without asking/telling you. In May, they made be a Caipirinha with lemons because they had run out of limes, and this time they made me a Mojito without mint – which was awful. Minor gripe though as I just sent them back and got something else.
We saw one show and a play in the Broadway Lounge. Most people raved about the entertainment here, saying it was of West End standard. I can only assume those people never go to West End theatre! If you live in the provinces and never get to professional theatre, you will enjoy the entertainment. The entertainments team try and do things that are beyond their ability. I caught a bit of their version of West Side Story which was pretty dreadful – you need operatic voices to sing Bernstein's music, and the enthusiastic and hard working young entertainers were out of their league.
The guest lecturer – Rolf Richardson – was very good. We caught one of his lectures on Norway (which we had to stand through, as he filled the cinema 15 minutes before he started), and a second on his experiences as an airline pilot.
We saw some good movies, both in our cabin and in the cinema, but irritatingly the running times were not printed in "Cruise News", and the advertised movies were not always the ones that were actually shown.
CAPTAIN AND CREW
Captain Geir Larsen is one of this ship's greatest assets – especially on a Norwegian cruise - and I looked forward to hearing the daily briefings from our "Viking Driver". He did everything he could to make the cruise an unforgettable experience. When we left Flaam on our first day, he took us on an unscheduled trip down the Naeroy fjord – one of the narrowest in Norway at only 250 metres wide, and impressively spun the ship round on its axis at the end of the fjord – no mean feat as the ship is 215 metres long! The blasts from the ships siren echoed around the fjord and an impressed crowd on the upper decks gave a spontaneous round of applause.
After leaving Tromso for the North Cape, Capt Larsen took us on a detour up the Jokelfjord to see the only glacier in Norway that reaches down to sea level. Judging by the people coming out of their houses to photograph us in this remote fjord, I don't think many cruise ships make it down there (although its in the brochure as a scheduled highlight of next year's North Cape Explorer).
Arriving at Honningsvag, Capt Larsen had another chance to show his skills. The weather was poor, with high winds, and we had been warned that we might not be able to dock. We passed the Saga Rose at anchor in the bay, her tenders shuttling back and forth through the choppy waters as we headed for the quay. After half an hour of careful manoeuvring with assistance from a harbour boat we were safely berthed.
We were due to call at Hammerfest the next day, but high winds prevented us from docking, despite a valiant effort by our Viking Driver. Capt Larsen decided tender operation would be unsafe, so we had an unexpected additional day at sea. The ship's company here showed how they excel at dealing with problems. Within half an hour of the announcement that we could not dock, Cruise Director David James was on the tannoy telling us about a hastily rearranged and action packed day of entertainment and activities, and printed schedules were available around the ship. Captain Larsen got permission from the Norwegian authorities to sail on the inside of the Lofoten islands without a Pilot, and we enjoyed a close-up view of puffins and other seabirds as we cruised slowly by this spectacular seascape.
The crew were mainly very friendly and always polite. We saw waiters entertaining diners, and enjoyed some good-natured practical jokes from waiters and bar staff.
TOILETS
Thomson Celebration has some notoriety following its maiden voyage being cancelled because of serious problems with the toilets. We had problems with our cabin toilet after the first week. For four days in a row, the toilet did not flush in the morning. Each time we reported it, it was fixed quickly, but there are clearly ongoing problems.
DISEMBARKATION
This was very annoying. We were returning to London on the Boat Train, and had the appropriate disembarkation card. Disembarkation was delayed, and started at 9 am. The London train was due to leave at 9.20, but Thomson's disembarked two groups of car passengers before calling for train passengers to disembark at 9:14. We got to the platform at 9:20, just in time to see the London train pulling away! It was extremely annoying, as we had to hang around the station for 45 minutes and got to London an hour late on a local train. A pity that such bad organisation brought the relaxed holiday atmosphere to an abrupt halt.
SUMMARY
I hope this review is firm but fair. After the shake down cruise, I rated Celebration "excellent". That trip was full of Thomson staff and friends, and the directors were on board. Service is not as good for the general public. Little things like only occasionally having the assistant waiter coming round with the pepper mill, poor service in the Lido, and the cleanliness problem. The ship has the resources and the potential to be excellent, if Thomson has the ability to deal with the problems (Thomson don't directly manage any of their ships).
Despite some disappointments I thoroughly enjoyed the cruise, Celebration is a nice sized ship with good amenities and a nice character, and offers value for money. I will probably cruise on her to the Baltic next year.
Travel operator:
Thomson
Recommended