i agree with you about malaysia airlines,don't know,how they are rated one of the best!!!
when we flew to KL,they gave us something to eat,about 2 hours into the flight,then about 2 hours before landing,so for the other 9 hours,you were left.my husband,is not an eater,but even he was hungry.i would go as far,as to say,they are the worst airline,we have flown long haul with!!!
glad you had a good trip,
tracy

Glad you are back safe and sound, sorry you didn't like KL, as you said everyone has different views. I haven't used taxis very often during the last couple of visits so I hadn't noticed any problems. The Shangri-La is lovely hotel, I stayed there a few years ago and was impressed, I'm glad to hear it has kept it's high standards. Have to agree with you about the food on Malaysia Airlines being poor but I would fly with them again if only for the excellent legroom. Unfortunately over the years I have noticed a gradual decrease in the standard of food on almost all of the longhaul carriers including most of the Far Eastern ones. The first time I flew with Singapore in the early nineties the service and food were great, now I'm not at all impressed.
I almost always take some food supplies with me on long haul flights as I have got fed up sending back almost uneaten meals.
Hope to read your trip report when you get back to normal..

I did like KL - just not as much as I thought I would. It was certainly even more of a cultural mix than some other cities and I found that interesting.

I think that's what attracts me to KL, the mixture of Malay, Indian and Chinese cultures, similar to Singapore but much more chaotic and not so sanitised, rather like Singapore used to be.

will be looking forward to your bali/puri santrian report as im off there in 26 days.

I always choose Malaysia airlines but that is just because of the leg room, the food varies alot with the menu (the last time we flew the menu had poor choices and the food was not that good) but I have found that if your are hungry at any time just ask and they will bring a sandwich.

The taxi drivers in KL are a strange lot and it is always a nightmare trying to get one to take you anywhere between 3 and 4PM as I think it is when they do a shift change. I now always agree a fee before I get in the taxi as they seem to like to rip you off with the meter.

That said I always find KL an enjoyable place to visit and will be returning again next year

Welcome back Fiona,

Both sorry and rather surprised at your comment re Malaysian Airlines food. I think that Judith hit it on the head

Unfortunately over the years I have noticed a gradual decrease in the standard of food on almost all of the longhaul carriers including most of the Far Eastern ones. The first time I flew with Singapore in the early nineties the service and food were great, now I'm not at all impressed.

We too have been offered some pretty poor food by SIA in the last few years (and some OK stuff). Still will find out in about 6 weeks.

Like les127, I look forward to hearing about Bali and the PS. I'm sure that you have a lot to do first - so don't rush (we hate the first few days back -"getting straight", both with the body clock and the bloming washing and tidying!)

Cheers

Peter

We've been having a mild urge to return to KL over the past few months. Its attractions are lower key than the other main SE Asian cities buts its a good place to get a luxury hotel at a bargain price. While its hasn't got the wow of Bangkok you still feel your somewhere exotic yet accessible and as Judith said not as sanitised as Singapore has become (heck I can remember when the Singapore River used to make the Chao Phrya look like moutain spring :D)

Only had the one bit of bother with a taxi driver in KL and that was sorted out by a very helpful local who was disgusted by the taxi drivers behaviour. Having said that I found them a lot less hassle than taxis and tuk tuks in Bangkok. Since than have mostly used taxis called up by hotel, a little bit more expensive but no hassle.

well we certainly got a luxury hotel. We splashed out on the Horizon Club rooms and were not disappointed. Loads of space- brilliantly set out for the business traveller with a table and office type chair, internet access and all the stationary to get you going. There was the minibar and tv and a sofa and further table. The bed was huge and really comfortable. The bathroom had bath and sep shower and loads of toiletries.There was plenty wardrobe space and storage for the suitcases. The club lounge was one the best we've had. Breakfast was a huge variety( well we thought so until we chose to go to the Lemon garden on the reception floor and found every type of food anyone in the world would want for breakfast There was actually far too much choice! They did afternoon tea and sandwiches and cake if you wanted it and the cocktail time from 6pm to 8pm with another huge variety of nibbles(wonderful stuff!)
We arrived quite late on the first night due to landing later than planned and then making the bad decision to take a taxi from the airport which seemed to spend most of its time standing still and took 1 hour 40 mins to reach the hotel. The second time we arrived we took the KLIA express like I knew we should have done in the first place
We were both shattered and by the time we had unpacked and freshened up it was 10pm so we just went down to the "Pub" and had a good night there. We had satay and a few drinks and listened to the group. As well as this there are a variety of other places to eat- Chinese, Japanese and French
restaurants as well as several other lower key places. The reception area also had a nice lounge with the novelty of a group singing on top of the bar
We didn't have time to use the swimming pool but did sit at it for a half hour on the morning we were leaving to go to Bali and it was very nice.
The whole hotel was beautiful with garden areas and ponds. Staff were efficient. As Traders is the same brand I would imagine that the new hotel must be something else too.
More about what we did during our time in the next post- including the hop on hop off bus which is a rare breed there and should be called " hop on and only hop off if you are prepared to wait for ever for the next one". It apparently gives commentary in 8 different languages and all of these were English

the hop on hop off bus is new this year and our concierge said it was a good way to see round KL when we enquired about a city tour. Said that too many tours mainly took you to gem stores etc. This seemed right when I overheard someone telling their friend about the trip they'd just been on - and the first four stops were various buying opportunities. We are used to the gem store stop but 4 in one trip seemed a bit much!
Anyway- if you are going to KL shortly, I would skip the hop on hop off. It has too many teething problems- one being no buses on the route! the route itself is good. They are supposed to be every half an hour. We waited 40 mins. When we got on it soon became clear that there were several irate people who had got on the stop before and had waited a lot longer. The headsets were not working so, although it advertises 8 different languages it is only once you get on, pay for your ticket that you are told the headsets aren't working and the commentary is English only. Fine for us but annoying for others. We had been going to stay on right the way round to begin with and then get off at the stops we wanted. Done this before in other cities. However, we got off at the Bird Park and had a great time there- well worth seeing. Then went back to the bus- an hour and 10 mins it turned up. We had been debating just getting a taxi but had a lot of the route still to see so just waited and waited.......
During our time in KL we visited Chinatown a couple of times but didn't really find it as "Chinese" as other cities. We went up the Menara tower- that is well worth doing. I found it fascinating and the audio guide was first class for pointing out the landmarks. We tried to get tickets for Pretonas first but despite being there by 8.45 we could not get tickets. If you want tickets be there at 8am. Have to say was not too bothered as the walkway it takes you to is not nearly as high as the Menara tower. (would still have liked to do it though) We did some window shopping within the complex( finances don't stretch to buying designer though )
We went to the Batu caves. Very impressive but boy its some climb! Unfortunately we could not access the caves at the bottom as there was some development work going on. We had a wonder round the temple there as well.
We did some shopping along Bukit Bintang.
We loved Jalan Alor- fantastic food and atmosphere. We just looked for the busiest place with the most locals and we were right to do so! We loved it so much we went twice.
Worth a mention is the park at Pretonas. It is a super area and the paddling area is well used by local families.
As mentioned before, I think KL is the one with the most mix of cultures I have seen and I enjoyed that aspect.
Although I did not find KL as humid as Singapore that is not saying much as we were still soaked in sweat for a lot of the time At least we did not have to give up on some of our siteseeing as we did in Singapore though.
The taxi situation- we just got over by offering everyone 10 ringits. They weren't interested if the meter was going to be less than that.
The Batu caves we did by taxi- 40 ringits each way which wasn't bad as it is a bit out and stopped all the uneccesary "buying" stops you get on tours.
Thats about if for KL- will add more if I remember anything else

Hi Fiona,
Welcome back. Sorry you didn't think Malaysian Airlines were that great but at least the flight is only a small part of the overall holiday. We booked with them mainly because of the extra leg room so I guess we'll just wait and see. KL sounds interesting. Looking forward to Bali report as we'll be spending some time at the Puri Santrian and we will also visit Ubud.

Malaysia Airlines were ok- we did have an hour and a half delay going to Bali- which wasn't the gripe, it was the fact that they got us boarding while they were still welding! I wasn't too happy with that.

Bali airport- quite smooth. Remember you have the visa on arrival- $25.We lost our luggage to the porters the same way as the last time They are cheeky sods- they wait till you get outside and organise a prepaid taxi and then they pounce.
When you get to security at the Puri Santrian they do a vehicle check including mirror underneath the car. We had booked a club room this time( had the bungalow last time). It is a nice big room with sep dressing area and sink and the bathroom. It was a 4 poster bed with netting. There is a seating area, tv,minibar and a nice balcony. Club rooms have their own swimming pool. We had no problems getting loungers but the area is in the shade in the afternoon- suited us on the first day anyway. The beach was just as breezy as last time.this can be lethal as you just burn. I managed to that in under 2 hours. Normally I tan really easily and start on factor 8 and work down. In Bali it is factor 15 and that still wasn't enough for me. One of the things I enjoyed the first time was strolling along the "Sanur Walk"- which is a walkway along the very long beach. However, I was disappointed to find changes to the area immediately to the right of the hotel. Well established shacks have been got rid off as they are selling the land just off the beach. So there was a long fence of corrugated iron. Locals have erected temporary affairs but I just wouldnt eat there as they have no running water and the dishes seemed to be cleaned with the minimum of water.To the left of the hotel they still have Donalds and a couple of other ones- all good. The boats along the beach are works of art and you still find fishermen painting or mending them. New from last time are the tsunami signs with what to do if you suspect one is about to happen- loads of advice but all saying the same- run!!
Funnily enough there was a quake in java which we felt in Bali and there were fears of a tsunami for them.
While there we looked at a couple of other hotels further up with the view to having a different selection of restaurants,shops around us the next visit( Sanur is A big place- its not just the beach road, but that road itself is very long)
The Hyatt - we had a wonder around. Looks really nice with a few eating places within it and huge grounds with loungers everywhere. Further up is the Griya Santrian. We might give that a go but preferred the look of the Hyatt- even though the accomodation block still looks a bit of an eyesore to me
Sanur is not a late night resort but it now has a couple of places which stay open to 2am. Both these are a taxi ride away on the bypass- the Arena and the Jazz Club.Both frequented by expats- we never made it to either as we were happy enough with what was around us. We were also determined to go into Kuta one night( but ended up with not being bothered again )
All the restaurants we went to were fantastic. Favourites were the Santrians own one- the Mezzanine, and a new one 5-10 mins walk to the right of the hotel- Mings. This one was the best. To the right of the Cat and Fiddle ( as you look at it) is a lovely restaurant whose name escapes me but it belongs to a villa complex and you walk up a pathway lit by candles. There was more live entertainment this year and our favourite was Friday night at the Trophey Bar - a rock band who also were not above such ditties as YMCA( they were an absolute scream) The Cat and Fiddle have their Irish music night- authentic music and all sung by Balinese
A new very popular bar is Double Dutch. I think there was a DD the last time we were there but its nothing like the new one. Very lively and music goes on till late.
Sanur was our lazy time and we just relaxed. We were a little unfortunate as half our time there it was overcast and August was unseasonable for them. We had a bit of drizzly rain too a few times. It didn't spoil things though. Next stop - Ubud

enjoying this report fiona, they seem to be doing the mirror under the vehicle security checks in Thailand now too, perhaps since the coo.
Do you think Bali tourism is picking up, do you think it is getting busier at all? Looking forward to the Ubud bit, thanks , shirleyv

well we thought it had picked up but were told that August is the only month it is busy. ( first time we went in July). There were more Aussies there but they are still down 30% in numbers pre the first bombing. Interestingly enough we got speaking to a couple from Perth who were on their first visit since Kuta bombs. They had vowed never to return as their son was caught up in it all, unharmed physically but has never been the same since. They felt they had to return and had just been into Kuta to the site where the bar he was in stood and looked at the memorials. I really pray that there are no more bombs as I have a feeling that they just could not recover from it.

Really enjoying your report Fiona. Do you know if you can pay for the 25$ visa with USD travellers cheques or does it have to be cash? I believe it's best to bring cash rather than TCs. Is there a safe in the rooms (we're in a bungalow) in the Puri Santrian? If your luggage is checked through from LHR to Denpasar is it ok to buy Duty free perfume and alcohol to bring on to the connecting flight to Bali?
Thanks
Gail

Enjoying it so far Fiona, looking forward to the rest.

the fee is cash only. There were not safes in the bungalows but reception have them. Yes you can buy duty free once airside and going to Bali. I loved our bungalow
I keep meaning to do the last part of my report but am like a zombie after a day with a new class of 6 years olds and am more or less working till 10 pm every night. I promise I'll get it done at the weekend latest

Thanks Fiona for your just back report... I'm walking every step of the way with you.
We stayed at the Puri Santrian in a club room and loved it in June. We have already booked our flights and accommodation for Easter 2008, this time a week in Legian and then over to the Griya Santrian.
We found a lot of Brits and Europeans in Sanur and yes the Aussies are returning slowly, however, it's becoming increasingly more difficult to get a flight. Garuda has reduced it's flights from major cities and they have cancelled flights (and closed their offices) in Adelaide and Brisbane, passengers now have the extra cost of a domestic flight to either Sydney or Melbourne often with an overnight stay. Some are now opting to fly from their home city to Singapore and KL and fly back to Bali making their flights very long when it used to take a matter of hours... once.
Having said all that I don't and won't fly Garuda.
We loved our time in Bali this year and can't wait to return, we had fabulous weather. It rained for 15 minutes but we was in a shop and missed it We did get Balied out once and began going to other places... we are refreshed again.
Thailand for us in 8 weeks ... the reason why I work.
Cheers Geri