I'll try and keep it a little briefer than the Las Vegas trip report....
Pre-Departure Day, August 8th 2008
We both had today off which was very handy and we deliberated a lot about what to do. Initially we were going to check in for our flight online, take Jack to the Cattery and then head straight down to Heathrow, leave the car at the hotel and head into London on the tube but we decided against it. In the end we decided to check in, take Jack and then travel down at our leisure and go and see a film in High Wycombe and then have a TGI's for tea (American food just before you go to America, clever). We saw Wall-E which was very good, had tea and then made our way to the Crowne Plaza at Heathrow. Traffic was horrendous on the M25 getting to High Wycombe, and also getting down to Heathrow leaving the M40 but it was rush hour and we wished we'd have been an hour earlier getting to the hotel and we might have missed it. Check in at the Crowne Plaza was easy and we also managed to find a parking spot at the front of the car park, so no need to park on the field over the back of the hotel which we were expecting. I paid just £69 for this hotel with 15 nights car parking included and it was an absolute steal. Rated number 1 on Tripadvisor it looks like an old 70's hotel from the front but inside it is very plush and although our room was on the ground floor, it was up to the standard you would expect from a Crowne Plaza. Kel did some swimming in the pool whilst I had a good read, and then we went into the Irish bar for a pint before retiring to bed, we had an early start the next day (5am) and really needed a good nights sleep.
Departure Day, August 9th 2008
After a reasonable nights sleep (never that great knowing you have to get up so early) we checked out of the hotel and waited for the Hoppa Bus to take us to Heathrow. Despite being propositioned a few times by taxi drivers waiting in the Crowne Plaza car park (is this allowed?) we stood firm and stuck with the Hoppa plan. Fortunately it was only a few minutes wait and we boarded and bought two return tickets for £16, not cheap, but cheaper than two taxis.
At this time of the morning it was a breeze getting to Heathrow and after discussing with the driver that we were flying from Terminal 4 (not served directly by the Hoppa) we got off at Terminal 1 and then followed the signs to board an underground train to Terminal 4 departures, which was a bit of a pain but once again with it being so early, it was just us and another couple in the whole train station. The train arrived quite quickly and soon we were on our way to the Terminal.
It started to go a bit wrong at this point. We hadn't eaten at this point and were starving (TGI's had been mid afternoon yesterday) but we decided to do bag drop at the Continental desk prior to finding a restaurant. I don't know what it is about this bag drop system but both BA, Virgin and now Continental have not got it right. The queue for the standard check in was going quicker than the bag drop queue, and then a member of staff decided to have a break. We stood in the bag drop queue for 45mins and watched as people who had just turned up without boarding passes just checked in and beat us through. Not good.
All checked in and with our bags out of sight we then hit Travelex to pick up our currency. Now, I swear by Travelex particularly with their price promise which will beat any other currency deal, but in Heathrow they are rubbish. Travelex at Gatwick is a breeze, you hand over the confirmation and the currency is already bagged and ready for you. In Heathrow, they don't have it ready and you have to wait as they allocate travellers cheques and document numbers etc etc. To say the girl was incompetent would be an understatement, so much so that I actually felt really sorry for her. She just didn't know what she had to do with the confirmation and therefore called a manager to come down and help. Fortunately another colleague came back sooner than that and tried to help, but she also couldn't do anything. Is it so hard, just give me what it states on the confirmation? In all we were there 40mins, people had queued up behind us and given up and gone elsewhere and guess what? We were told to go through security and pick it up airside as they were having problems figuring it out!!!! DOH!!! Anyway we made our way through security and a very helpful member of staff assisted us within a few minutes and we had our currency. What a joke, I really am considering not using Travelex in the future especially at Heathrow.
At this stage time was getting on and we didn't have time for a sit down breakfast and had to make do with a muffin and drink from a vendor near the boarding gate. Once again, just like last September, we had not stopped for one minute upon arriving at Heathrow and boarding our plane, which can either be seen as a good thing (do you want to be hanging around too long?) or a bad thing if you like time to chill. We got on the Continental plane and left just about on time en route to Houston. Configuration was 2-3-2 which we knew already so it was just each other to annoy!!!!
To be honest the flight went very quickly and I was very impressed with Continental. The staff were very friendly and the food was some of the best I have ever had on an airline. Arriving in Houston we were glad to be early, which meant the worries of catching our connecting flight to Albuquerque were less severe. Initially we had only been given a connection time of 75mins, but we had a little under 2 hours before the flight departed (thanks to Continental and very effiicient Houston immigration) so we sat down and had some Texas BBQ before heading over to the gate for our on time departure to Albuquerque.
It was at this point we saw on the TV screens that the actor Bernie Mac had died which seemed very strange especially as we had just watched both Oceans 11 & 13 in readiness for the Vegas portion of our holiday. Very sad.
As the tannoy annoucement went off looking for two people to give up their seats on the flight to Albuquerque in exchange for financial gain we were sorely tempted. There was a further two flights that night to Albuquerque and to be honest all we were likely to do tonight was check in, have some food and then hit the bed. When we heard however the deal included credits on future Continental flights instead of hard cash we decided against it. No doubt we would fly Continental again but we were unsure when, and I guess they would expire at some point, so we stuck to our plan and took off at 2.25pm from sunny Houston to hopefully even sunnier Albuquerque.
Arriving in Albuquerque after a thunderstorm it was clear it was very hot, as most of the roads had dried up already. We got off the plane, picked up our bags and headed to the car rental depot on a shuttle bus. We had booked in the UK direct with Hertz and they were very efficient, giving us our first choice Ford Focus and not doing the hard sell on any additional insurances or upgrades. Very impressed.
With Albuquerque Sunport being literally next door to the I25 it was very easy to navigate our way to our hotel which was the Howard Johnson Express Inn North, which we had paid the princely sum of $60 a night for. To be honest Ho Jo's are not high on our list of preferred hotels in the USA but this one was rated 6 in Albuquerque and in a city with so many hotels, we thought it had to be good. It was a short 15min drive north on the I25 to the hotel which we found the 2nd time after missing it initially. DOH!! Check in was smooth if not a little brusque, but we were glad to find our room on the 2nd floor (of 3) was very nice, spotlessly clean and with a huge and very comfortable king bed.
We unpacked and had a nice and very welcome shower before heading out in the car for somewhere to eat. We went up and down a few streets which were mainly littered with chain restaurants and opted for the Texas Roadhouse, a restaurant we have seen in other USA cities but have never ventured into. Sure it wasn't New Mexican food, but there was ample time to have that. As it was a Saturday night (something that dawned on us as we tried to find a parking spot) there was a long wait, 40 mins in total, which was not ideal especially after a transatlantic flight but at the same time, we were aware we could have the same problem elsewhere so we agreed to sit and wait, which was very nice in the cooling evening with the last rays of the New Mexican sun beating down on us.
Wait time was about spot on and we went in, the place was huge and was obviously very popular. We had a great server (one of many in New Mexico) and the food was delicious, I had Chicken with country gravy and fries, Kel had BBQ chicken and sweet potato. It was very filling and there was no room for dessert, the bill came to just $27. Impressed we left, and it was nice to just get into the car and head back up the I25 to the hotel. We got back to the room, and after a bit of TV, we just fell asleep. The end of a very long and very tiring travelling day, but we had arrived and we knew we would wake up raring to go the next morning.
More to follow over the weekend.....
luci
Excellent trip report,looking forward to the rest.
After a very tiring but enjoyable travel day yesterday it was no surprise we slept liked logs but as is always the case with the first full day in the USA (for us anyway) we were wide awake at 6am!! I was quite happy with that, you really do have to keep yourself going as long as possible on the travel day night and then you feel the benefit the next day. There is nothing worse than going to sleep at 8pm (which is certainly how most of us feel) and then waking up at 4am in the morning, wide awake, raring to go but unable to because.....well it's 4am. Maybe in Vegas and New York, but certainly not in Albuquerque!! If I had a hat I would take it off to those (mad) people in Orlando who manage to go to a theme park after a transatlantic flight, but for us, it's only ever a case of checking in, unpack, shower and head out for a meal before hitting the bed.
So at 6am we were both awake and watched a bit of TV before heading down to breakfast. I must admit to being slightly wary of American budget hotel chains free breakfast, we have had some shockers in our time, not in terms of inedible food, but mainly because most of them seem to think a packaged muffin, apple and warm orange juice is going to be enough to keep you going for a while. It was about 7.30am by the time we sat down and unsurprisingly there was nobody else about apart from staff. To be honest it was a good hot breakfast, nothing fancy at all but tasty and plenty to go around. The hot options were sausage, hash browns (which were to die for), scrambled eggs and pancakes, all of which were topped up nicely if it seemed they were running out. There were also plenty of pastries, bread and bagels if you fancied something different. The most interesting part for me was having salsa for breakfast, which certainly woke you up with it's hotness and you could make burritos of all the hot items which was a nice New Mexican touch. Staff were very friendly, and at the end of the meal we both agreed it was very good and we wouldn't be looking for a breakfast alternative for the next 3 mornings!!
Now to Albuquerque itself. We had taken a ride around yesterday after checking in just to get our bearings and we liked the look of the city. Most guide books tend to think of Albuquerque as the poorer cousin to Santa Fe with strip mall after strip mall and a bewildering road system. Well from our point of view as first timers the road system was a piece of cake, sure there were strip malls but they have them in every USA city, and obviously we were not in a position to compare it to Santa Fe. From our point of view it was nice to be seeing a new part of the USA and we were very excited.
It was a glorious first morning with clear blue skies and the sun baking down on us, temperatures were into the high 80's early on and it would get hotter. First port of call was the Anderson Abruzzo International Balloon Museum just a few minutes drive north on the I25 which was free on Sundays from 9am-1pm. We both only have a passing interest in hot air balloons (one ride in Orlando back in 2005) but with Albuquerque being the capital of ballooning in the USA if not the world, we felt it only right to pay a visit to the museum and also to the adjoining Balloon Fiesta Park where the huge event takes place in October each year. The musuem was excellent with plenty of exhibits and some sweeping views of the Fiesta Park, it certainly kept our interest for nearly two hours and after we left we certainly felt we had better knowledge of ballooning. The fact it was free was a bonus, but for the measly amount of $6 normally, it would be worth a visit at any time.
After leaving the Balloon museum we decided to head south on the I25, and then west on I40 to get down to Albuqerque Old Town, which was meant to be one of the highlights of the city. We found it easy enough (where is this complex road system?) and even managed to find a car parking space just minutes from the Plaza itself, something which is supposedly very difficult at the best of times. It was very hot by now so we had to suncream up before continuing and I guess it was only about 5mins before we took our first air conditioning break of the day in a shop selling just about everything. We both liked the Old Town part of Albuquerque and there were some good restaurants as well. The Plaza itself is lovely and reminded us of our time in Savannah, plus it was good to get some great pictures of the San Felipe de Neri Church, which is pretty much the iconic symbol of this part of Albuquerque. It was also our first opportunity to see the vendors lined up along one side of the Plaza selling homemade gifts, all of which were very well made and for most tourists an opportunity to rid themselves of plenty of their holiday spending money. We didn't give into temptation though and agreed it was better to window shop at this point as there was ample time to spend in New Mexico. Word of warning, as nice as the items looked they did seem expensive, but for a touristy area of the city you can't really blame them and at least you were confident they were the real deal.
Albuquerque had a number of very good museums to visit, which certainly seemed to fit better with our interests than maybe Santa Fe's art museums. We had intended to visit the New Mexico Natural History and Science Museum today and also the Atomic Museum. As we had spent longer at the Balloon Museum and also around the Old Town Plaza, we made a decision to do one today and keep the other one until the next day. We opted for the Atomic Museum. Although we enjoyed seeing the effects that Atomic Power had on the USA and New Mexico itself we felt it was probably something we could have passed on. It was cheap and cheerful, and currently housed in a converted shop unit, but I would probably advise against visiting until they move to their new larger premises near the Balloon Fiesta Park. Still it was good to see replicas of some of the Atom Bombs and there were some other nice displays, and it didn't really hurt to pass an hour here whilst getting some much needed air conditioning cooling.
It was now we decided to have some lunch but with time getting on and legs started to feel a bit weary, I suggested taking a ride up to the Cottonwood Mall, grabbing a bite to eat and taking a look at Old Navy. Traffic was fairly bad at this point and it seemed a lot longer journey then it should have done compared to the map but we soon found the mall and made our way inside. We ate at the food court, and with time getting on we both agreed 4 garlic rolls and a drink from the Pizza provider wouldn't fill us up too much, and also wouldn't break the bank. It didn't on both scores.
Suitably fed we then hit Old Navy. Now Old Navy has been a regular stop off for us since we first visited in New York on our trip in 2000 but in recent years has become a bit of a letdown. In the past the clothes have been cheapish, normally pretty good quality and there always been plenty of choice. Unfortunately this outlet was pretty much on a par with other recent experiences. We did manage to get a few items but in truth we really didn't come to the USA for major shopping as we had bought quite a lot of newish stuff on previous visits. Kel also wanted to go to American Eagle, which I personally hate as the XXL stuff is all muscle fit, but she did manage to get a nice t-shirt for $11. Shopped out in just two stores, we headed out to the car to continue our journey.
We decided to head back to the Howard Johnson to rest our legs as we were feeling it a little, it was only a short 10min journey across the city back to the I25 and we parked up in what seemed a far busier car park than yesterday. Kel wanted to take a look at the outside (heated) pool, so we did this on the way back to the room and were pleasantly surprised to find it in good condition and the water very clear. It was definitely an option for future days. Hot, slightly tired and in need of a rest we headed back to the room, cranked up the air conditioning and chilled out for a few hours. Lovely.
After the very welcome rest we showered and changed and headed out in the car again. Kel had won tonight with her choice to eat at Garduno's Restaurant, a chain, but only in New Mexico (although there is one also in Las Vegas) so it didn't seem a total cop out. This was our first chance to sample the New Mexican cuisine and was one of the reasons we had come to visit New Mexico. A very friendly (probably too friendly) waiter served us and to be honest the meal was very good. Some of the locals on the TA forum had mentioned that there are better options than Garduno's but we found the food to be of a high standard, service was excellent and the setting was lovely. It was a Sunday night but it wasn't overly busy. It was our first chance to sample the red and green chiles which New Mexico is renowned for and we found both very agreeable, red being the hotter. It was a nice touch to offer free nachos and dip, which acted as our starter and it didn't take long for the main meals to come out. Mexican food does tend to sometimes come out as a plate of brown, I hope you can understand what I mean? Kel avoided this with a Taco dish which was not overly heavy on the beans, but mine was a bit of a mess with black beans, cheese and salsa all covering my dish. It tasted divine, but you couldn't really seperate the meats. I decided it was the wrong choice but it was still an enjoyable experience. Kel rated hers as 10/10 which was a good start to our New Mexican food adventure. The bill was just $40, a bargain for what we ate and drunk and very fully we headed to the car park for the short ride back up the I25 to the hotel.
After a very exhausting first full day, the king bed was very welcome and after a bit of TV watching and chilling, we pretty much fell asleep immediately. Albuqerque had definitely lived up to what we expected from it, but there was still plenty to see and do.
More to follow.....
Thanks for the kind comments.
I'm glad to hear of someone else contemplating a trip to New Mexico. It definitely seems off the radar for a lot of tourists except the obvious American holidaymakers from closeby states.
Remember also that we only got to see part of the state. My trip report will concentrate on Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Taos whereas also recommended to us but unable to include this time was Carlsbad (for cave exploration) and the White Sands National Park. Add in the UFO obsessed Roswell, the other Las Vegas and possibly even some time in El Paso (it is on the Texas/NM border) and it certainly makes you aware of just how much there is to see and do in New Mexico.
Best of luck with your planning if you decide to go.
Glad you are enjoying your trip. It's bringing back memories of my solo trip 23 years ago to one of my favourite states.. I didn't get to see much of Albequerque but did visit all of the other places you mentioned, my mouth started to water when you described the food.
Albuquerque is a nice city, Lonely Planet tells you to get beneath the surface of the city and that is what we did. Initially it does look like a lot of strip malls and confusing road systems but it really is a lot more than that. The museum area is very nice down near Old Town and you could spend days in these alone. Our personal fave was the New Mexico Natural History and Science Museum, especially for the Dinosaur exhibits. Well worth the time and also very cheap, I think the admission with an IMAX film was $13, so not exactly going to break any banks!!
Another reason for visiting Albuquerque is to take a drive on the section of Route 66 that runs through the city and beyond. I must admit I didn't expect Route 66 to be such a focal part of the holiday but it was. A real touristy thing to do is to eat in the Route 66 Diner, but the food was divine and very cheap. I couldn't believe it was full at 2.30pm!!! Seems it's like that everyday. Cool. The diner is situated in Midtown, just a few minutes drive from Downtown which has been totally regenerated in the past decade from a no go zone to a pleasant downtown with pedestriansed roads etc. It's not quite New York City, in fact it's nothing like it, but it is well worth an afternoon exploration and the excellent Kimo Theatre is located here (tours available).
We also got to see a Minor League Baseball game when in Albuquerque and it is an excellent evening out. For $11 each we got seats behind home plate (top views) and got to experience some US sport again. Standard was very high for minor league but it did go on, it was 3 hours in and was only halfway through so we decided to leave after the 7th innings (as a lot of people did). Baseball does go on but this particular game seemed like the longest in history. Still it is a lovely ballpark and the people were friendly, parking is a doddle and if you are in the area it would be a shame to miss it as it is a very good evening.
We also visited the Albuquerque Bio Park for the day which consists of the Aquarium (very small, an hour tops), Zoo (very good, 2 hours+) and the Botanic Gardens (good for an hour) all linked via a train between the areas. Also included is Tingley Beach which is a man made resource good for fishing and just chilling out. Well worth the time we spend there and also dirt cheap again.
On the day we headed to Santa Fe via the Turquoise Trail (the 14) we got to finally go up the major tourist attraction in Albuquerque which is the Sandia Peak Tramway. Fortunately the weather was great (don't do it if the clouds cover the peak) and the views were awesome, and really showed up just how much of a basin area Albuquerque is located within. It seems like a city has been plonked down and then nothing for miles, very spread out, and we got to see it all from that high up. Excellent and although a bit more expensive than a lot of the other attractions in Albuquerque ($17.50pp) well worth the expense. The ride up was superb and sometimes you even get to see bears playing below in the wooded area.
As an introduction to New Mexico, Albuqerque was immense. The setting is great (think Cape Town, with no water) and the locals were very friendly. Food was also top notch, it might be Texan BBQ but the County Line restaurant at Tramway truly is the best BBQ I have ever tasted, well since we ate at the same chain of restaurant in San Antonio back in 2006. I would highly recommend the city for a few days, certainly whilst getting used to the altitude before heading higher to the likes of Santa Fe and Taos.
Santa Fe & Taos to follow soon.......
Great report, thanks
Thanks for writing.
I'm loving reading this report
After going up the Sandia Peak tram we headed north to Santa Fe. This is easily done in 45mins on the I25 but it is recommended to drive up the 14 which is also known as the Turquoise Trail which takes you through lovely little villages to Santa Fe. We stopped off at Madrid which is where a lot of artists have settled and opened up their galleries for tourists plus there are some good lunch places as well. It was a nice stop to recharge our batteries and for people really interested in galleries I'm sure you could easily spend an afternoon there.
After agreeing that it was well worth the detour on the Turquoise Trail (scenery is stunning) we arrived in Santa Fe and the best thing was the highway led straight onto Cerillos Road where we were staying. Of course we couldn't go by the Sante Fe Outlet Mall where there is an Eddie Bauer Outlet (one of our fave USA shops) and after half an hour we came out about $130 lighter but with some seriously good bargains. I must admit the rest of the mall left a lot to be desired. It also didn't help that it had started to rain!!!! It was our first taste of rain in New Mexico apart from when we landed in Albuquerque but we were not overly concerned and with nothing planned for the rest of the day we headed to our hotel.
I had booked a hotel through Hotwire again for Santa Fe (did the same in Atlanta) and had been impressed to get the Holiday Inn for just $39 a night. Whilst not expecting much we also thought it couldn't be that bad as it was a Holiday Inn. In the end it was nice, and but for a bit of a Jobsworth on the front desk we had a great stay. I appreciate that we only paid $39 and booked through Hotwire but it was not necessary to comment on the fact that we would never get a king bed room on a Hotwire rate!!! In the end we had to make do with two doubles which was not ideal for us as we are both 6ft+. We managed though and enjoyed the hotel which was located about 10mins drive from Sante Fe plaza.
Arrival day was spent just driving around to get our bearings. Cerrillos Road is very busy and full of roadworks at the moment but it wasn't quite the standstill some had told us to expect. In fact Sante Fe is a very easy city to navigate although it does get trickier the nearer the Plaza you get especially with some one way streets. After exploring for a while we went back to the hotel to shower and change for our first night meal which was in the Blue Corn Cafe literally 2 mins walk from the hotel entrance. Great food, great atmosphere and friendly staff. Superb.
First full day was mainly spent exploring the Plaza area which is better than Albuquerque's to be honest. Lots of museums, churches, cathedrals, restaurants etc and a lovely shaded square in the centre with artists selling paintings and some great food kiosks. One of the highlights is the Loretto Chapel and the miracle spiral staircase, google it for some further information especially if you believe in miracles!!!!
We spent most of the day in the Plaza area and then drove to a new area near the railyard which is up and coming. It houses a mall and a number of great restaurants, give it a year or so and when it is complete it will be outstanding.
I think we both agree that the 2nd full day in Sante Fe was the best of the holiday. We got in the car early and drove first to Overlook Park which affords great views of the Rio Grande Gorge (think Grand Canyon but much smaller scale) and then we continued on to Bandelier National Monument which was the highlight of the entire trip. There is a loop trail walk through Pueblo ruins and houses, some of which you can climb up ladders to which was absolutely fascinating. I can't do it justice in words but we were there for hours and still only saw a fraction of the whole place. If anybody is thinking of heading to New Mexico then Bandelier has to be included in any itinerary!!! After spending most of the day getting some much needed exercise and of course some great culture it was back to Sante Fe and beyond to Pecos Historial Park, which was very similar to Bandelier with another great loop trail and some ancient pueblo ruins. Tonight we decided to head to a local's favourite restaurant, Tortilla Flats. Despite feeling very out of place (I don't think they get many English in there) we had a great meal and a server who we warmed to after initially thinking she was a bit offish with us. The food was great New Mexican fare, and of course the chile was extremely hot!!! Highly recommended.
Our final full day in New Mexico was spent driving the low road to Taos. You can choose either the low or high road (high takes much longer) but for me the scenery on the low road was stunning. You basically drive alongside the Rio Grande and there are parking places dotted along the road where you can pull over and sample the views. It's also a good place to do white water rafting and we must have seen about ten groups doing this, all of who waved at us from their rafts as they went past. That's a must do next time to be honest but we didn't have the time on this trip. Onwards to Taos and through to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, a must see, just 5mins drive from Taos. There are people who are quite frightened by this bridge and it is very tall (and very windy) but the views of the gorge below are stunning so I would certainly recommend it. There is also a trail closeby which affords the picture perfect views you see on websites such as these:-
http://virtualguidebooks.com/NewMexico/PuebloCountry/UpperRioGrande/RioGrandeGorgeBridge.html
Awesome and not the little bit frightening, although it does rattle and shake when lorries go over it!!!
After this it was back to Taos for a look around the Plaza area which is very nice, similar to Sante Fe and has a number of good shops selling locally made goods. It is a little touristy but the views on the way up and at the Gorge Bridge makes it a worthwhile stop on any NM itinerary. After this we drove back to Sante Fe, again stopping for some great vistas (the most we have stopped anywhere in the world since visiting New Zealand) and in the evening we headed back to the Blue Corn Cafe for some more of their great New Mexican food.
After a final night at the Holiday Inn we headed down the I25 to Albuquerque to catch our flight on Southwest Airlines to Las Vegas. You will find my trip report for Vegas elsehwhere on this forum
And that was New Mexico. You certainly feel off the tourist trail (well certainly from a UK point of view, although it does attract a lot of US visitors) and the food is to die for. I would certainly recommend Albuquerque, Sante Fe and Taos as a good introduction to the area but bear in mind there is so much more to see such as the White Sands National Park, Carlsbad Caves and of course Roswell. The weather was great in Albuquerque (90f+) and no humidity, but it did get more cloudy and rainy the further north we went but not enough to stop us doing anything which was very welcome. There is no doubt in my mind that we will both be back to NM again soon and for anybody thinking of heading to somewhere different in the USA, then this state could well be the one.
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