Excellent report, Joseph and Lucia sound amazing, are there any pictures of their guest house uploaded, do you know?
Will upload some later tonight Miccie
there is a video in the films section
Hope you enjoyed the rest of your stay Ian, I take it the postcard got there ok?
I think we got the wrong address, holiday went great, i have started the second part or my report, but as i am back at work it will be the weekend before i finish it
GM06
Ian
GM06
Ian
Take the night off mate, you deserve it!!! 
Thanks Gooner Fan look forward to seeing the pictures, I'll have a look at the video.
Looking forward to the next installment on the report
Looking forward to the next installment on the report
Part two
Sorry about delay in posting part two
Saturday 1st March
We had booked the tuskers and tigers trip with day tripper, it turns out you can book the trip direct with the company who run it and save a considerable amount of roops. (PM me for the number and website if your interested).
It's a two nights, three day trip to Karnataka, very tiring but an experience well worth undertaking, We where picked up by coach outside Jimmy Kingfishers small lodgings at the bottom end of Candolim at midday. We got off to a great start as the coach used jimmy's drive to do a three point turn in much to the consternation of the guards and our amusement. On the transfer to the railway station at Verna, Mario & Agnelo our guides for the two days introduced themselves and outlined the schedule for the trip.
We where booked on the "slow" train down to Udupi, this is like our British commuter trains as opposed to their express that stops at limited stations along the route. We where told that we had reserved seats and would be two to seat possibly three if there where a lot of reservations. This service travels every day up and down the costal line stopping at 28 stations in each direction, hence an estimated time of 5 hours. Our carriage was the last of about 20, we set off and watched in amazement at the variety of passengers got on and off at each stop, with being in a reserved carriage, we where never cramped as the other carriages seemed to be.
At Margao a lot of people got on including a smallish Indian guy who just caught my eye for some reason. The scenery along the route was breathtaking as we passed from Goa into Karnataka the land changed into well cultivated farmland and small holdings growing every cop imaginable. People working in the fields would wave at the passing train and shout a cheery hello. At each station passengers would get on the train and try to find a seat, my funny little Indian guy would get out of his seat and order anyone who should not be in our reserved carriage to move shouting in Konkani (or whatever language) and pointing at them until they relented and moved. Half way through the journey I decided he looked like Sammy Davis junior with two good eyes. (Turns out that he was employed by the railway)
The Train got up to a good speed between stations but as we passed through a number of tunnels we would need to slow down, the smell from the brakes reminded me of the clutch of a car burning out. Every 5 minutes the canteen boys would come round selling chips, sandwiches, samosa, pop, water and chanting endlessly chai chai chai. On arrival at Udupi station we transferred to three minibuses for our transfer to our hotel, the 20 minute drive made the traffic in Goa look tame, We booked in, showered had a very nice meal buffet style Indian food, two drinks and then to bed for an early night as we had a long day ahead of us.
4.45 am there was a knock on our bedroom door, our early morning call, showered and changed we where on the road by 5.20, our journey took us up the Agumbe pass, 14 hairpin bends taking us up the side of the hill to Agumbe one of the highest peaks of the Western Ghats, and on to the Deccan plateau, about 7.0 we stopped at a roadside café for breakfast of rice pancake, banana, coffee and banana bread. We sat talking amongst ourselves some looking quizzically at the banquet before us when a cow stuck its head under the tarpaulin and pinched the banana from the Danish guy next to me. After we got over the shock our table was in uproar and our new found friend feasted on a few unwanted titbits before being chased of by the café owner. We continued our journey to the Sakrebayalu Elephant Camp taking in the landscape, ever-changing from small towns to farming communities.
The elephants where down at the river having there morning bath when we arrived, Mrs Mad was straight into the river scrubbing brush in hand giving Nellie a good scrub behind the ears, bathing happened in relays when one was finished the keeper would walk it back to the encampment and another would take its place. I was hopping round like a demented bumble bee photographing the action, I joined in with the scrubbing after a while I was amazed that the more you scrub the more they love it. We spent about 45 mins at the river side before we made our way up to the camp, on our way we met a 45 day old baby elephant on its way down to the river, his walk towards us looked so funny and disjointed, (Walt Disney's animation of baby elephants is spot on once you have seen this little chap)
At the main paddock we where able to help feed them, pose for photographs, and just marvel at how gentle and serene they appear to be, the keepers do not allow you to give them your own food. There where about 25 elephants of varying ages the oldest being about 85 and the youngest 45 days according to the guides. I stood in front of the oldest one, I had a small rucksack on my back, which touched his trunk, I am not one of the thinnest people in the world, but the tusks still projected about two feet in front of me, the experience of the ivory in my hands was amazing.
Baby came back from his bath and revelled in the attention he received, I stood in front of him to stroke his head and he playfully pushed me backwards like I was not there, I moved round the side to pose for a photograph and me moved me sideways standing on my flip flop, glad me missed my toes.
Whilst photographing other elephants I heard a trumpet and the two I where photographing wheeled away as little baby ran between them followed by mother who had put out a distress call, the keepers jumped into action and calmed the situation and reunited mother and baby.
We where informed by our guides that the elephants undergo the same routine every morning before going to work about 11 am, Its not a commercial attraction that puts on a show every day for tourists, if we had arrived late after 9 am we would have missed the bathing, after 11am the elephants would have been out working in the jungle.
We passed through a very large town called Shimoga the traffic was again chaos, around the main bus station we encountered, tuk tuks, ox carts, lorry's, busses scooters bicycles and cars, each one sounding his horn in a cacophony of noise, the skill with which each person manoeuvred their vehicle was like motorised ballet in slow motion.
Tyarekoppa Safari park is about 10 kms away from Shimoga. Tigers and other wildlife animals roam around the forest freely; although fences are there to keep the tigers in the park covers 10 hectares (It's big).The tiger guides took us around the enclosures in busses with wire cages over the windows, when we found a tiger the would pull up and open the doors allowing those who felt brave enough to get a good photograph without the restriction of the cage. I took countless photographs, the driver of the bus allowed me to sit on the dashboard and photograph through the open door to get clear photos of a tiger less than 10 feet way. (I will post photos soon). It is difficult to convey the immense power size and beauty of these majestic creatures in writing so. I am sorry if readers fell a little cheated that I have not elaborated more about the tigers, I will let my photographs speak for themselves.
We had lunch in an air conditioned vegetarian restaurant, food again was excellent, on our way back stopped at the same village restaurant? At Agumbe to have a drink and comfort stop. Karnataka does not cater for tourists so the locals, especially children probably found the site of 30 European tourists a bit of a curio, whilst I was not scared it gave me an insight into how immigrants to Britain felt in the sixties.
Back to our hotel about 5pm for a shower and a whole two hours of relaxation before going to Udupi town to visit the Hindu temple area. As I had said earlier Karnataka is not used to tourists in the same way Goa is, Again I thought the locals found us a tourist attraction rather than their the other way round, whilst it was something we where both conscious of it was not unsettling. The temple area was amazing, I wish we had been able to spend longer there than the hour that we did.
We where allowed to enter the Shri Krishna temple whilst prayers where being held. At the back of the temple I watched open mouthed at the sight of worshippers saying prayers, prostrating themselves, whilst around me bells where being rung loud and vigorously, drums beating, a wall of noise hundreds of small candles the soot from them having stained the beams over centuries of worship. Combined with the low ceiling and the crowds it was a eerie but pleasant experience, afterwards we walked around the outside of the temple area before returning to our hotel and evening meal. On the third day we had the luxury of a late breakfast at 7 am before catching the train back to goa and being dropped of about 3 pm. We had a simple steak meal at Floyds hut that evening and had an early night about 11pm.
It's a trip that I would gladly recommend with the proviso that it was done during the first week of a two week break.
The remaining three days of our holiday seemed to fly by, spent a few roops at super tailor on shirts for work and a new suit for me, I received a nasty jab in the ribs from Mrs Mad when I commented that she looked like Paddington in bondage gear in her new leather duffle coat.
We where invited again to Crescey house for tea and cake spending three hours with her and her family, we only got to know her through shopping where she works, she expects nothing from us but our friendship, which we give unreservedly.
Our last but one evening was spent having a meal with Joseph and Lucia our hosts, fried aubergines in chilli batter, Kingfish with chilli breadcrumb coating, rice & vegetables and beef chilli fry. Again I can not reiterate enough what warm and generous hosts as well as friends they have become.
Our final evening was very low key as we had a taxi booked for 3 am, Auquib accompanied us to the airport and we said our goodbyes for another year.
Our passage through the airport was uneventful with everything going as smoothly as it could, taking into account that we where in India. The only sour note was trying to pay for two cups of coffee priced at 30 roops with a pound coin and it not being enough, I was informed their exchange rate airside was 50 roops to the pound. I declined to purchase the drinks and grumbled and sulked for half an hour. What I did observe was people paying for drinks with rupee notes, a lesson learnt for the future.
With all the fuss over visas, the negative comments and general uncertainty on the forum in the months or weeks prior to travel I thought this may have been pour last trip, I am pleased to say that not only have we paid our deposit for next year we are als0o taking two Goan virgins with us.
A our taxi approached the final mile to our house a little wave of sadness flooded over me, as I remembered the things that make me realise that I am home and the holidays over,
1. A comfy bed
2. Sitting in a proper armchair.
3. A cup of Chai chai chai
Hope you enjoyed this second half of my report, I will post pictures later today of the trip
GM06
Ian
Sorry about delay in posting part two
Saturday 1st March
We had booked the tuskers and tigers trip with day tripper, it turns out you can book the trip direct with the company who run it and save a considerable amount of roops. (PM me for the number and website if your interested).
It's a two nights, three day trip to Karnataka, very tiring but an experience well worth undertaking, We where picked up by coach outside Jimmy Kingfishers small lodgings at the bottom end of Candolim at midday. We got off to a great start as the coach used jimmy's drive to do a three point turn in much to the consternation of the guards and our amusement. On the transfer to the railway station at Verna, Mario & Agnelo our guides for the two days introduced themselves and outlined the schedule for the trip.
We where booked on the "slow" train down to Udupi, this is like our British commuter trains as opposed to their express that stops at limited stations along the route. We where told that we had reserved seats and would be two to seat possibly three if there where a lot of reservations. This service travels every day up and down the costal line stopping at 28 stations in each direction, hence an estimated time of 5 hours. Our carriage was the last of about 20, we set off and watched in amazement at the variety of passengers got on and off at each stop, with being in a reserved carriage, we where never cramped as the other carriages seemed to be.
At Margao a lot of people got on including a smallish Indian guy who just caught my eye for some reason. The scenery along the route was breathtaking as we passed from Goa into Karnataka the land changed into well cultivated farmland and small holdings growing every cop imaginable. People working in the fields would wave at the passing train and shout a cheery hello. At each station passengers would get on the train and try to find a seat, my funny little Indian guy would get out of his seat and order anyone who should not be in our reserved carriage to move shouting in Konkani (or whatever language) and pointing at them until they relented and moved. Half way through the journey I decided he looked like Sammy Davis junior with two good eyes. (Turns out that he was employed by the railway)
The Train got up to a good speed between stations but as we passed through a number of tunnels we would need to slow down, the smell from the brakes reminded me of the clutch of a car burning out. Every 5 minutes the canteen boys would come round selling chips, sandwiches, samosa, pop, water and chanting endlessly chai chai chai. On arrival at Udupi station we transferred to three minibuses for our transfer to our hotel, the 20 minute drive made the traffic in Goa look tame, We booked in, showered had a very nice meal buffet style Indian food, two drinks and then to bed for an early night as we had a long day ahead of us.
4.45 am there was a knock on our bedroom door, our early morning call, showered and changed we where on the road by 5.20, our journey took us up the Agumbe pass, 14 hairpin bends taking us up the side of the hill to Agumbe one of the highest peaks of the Western Ghats, and on to the Deccan plateau, about 7.0 we stopped at a roadside café for breakfast of rice pancake, banana, coffee and banana bread. We sat talking amongst ourselves some looking quizzically at the banquet before us when a cow stuck its head under the tarpaulin and pinched the banana from the Danish guy next to me. After we got over the shock our table was in uproar and our new found friend feasted on a few unwanted titbits before being chased of by the café owner. We continued our journey to the Sakrebayalu Elephant Camp taking in the landscape, ever-changing from small towns to farming communities.
The elephants where down at the river having there morning bath when we arrived, Mrs Mad was straight into the river scrubbing brush in hand giving Nellie a good scrub behind the ears, bathing happened in relays when one was finished the keeper would walk it back to the encampment and another would take its place. I was hopping round like a demented bumble bee photographing the action, I joined in with the scrubbing after a while I was amazed that the more you scrub the more they love it. We spent about 45 mins at the river side before we made our way up to the camp, on our way we met a 45 day old baby elephant on its way down to the river, his walk towards us looked so funny and disjointed, (Walt Disney's animation of baby elephants is spot on once you have seen this little chap)
At the main paddock we where able to help feed them, pose for photographs, and just marvel at how gentle and serene they appear to be, the keepers do not allow you to give them your own food. There where about 25 elephants of varying ages the oldest being about 85 and the youngest 45 days according to the guides. I stood in front of the oldest one, I had a small rucksack on my back, which touched his trunk, I am not one of the thinnest people in the world, but the tusks still projected about two feet in front of me, the experience of the ivory in my hands was amazing.
Baby came back from his bath and revelled in the attention he received, I stood in front of him to stroke his head and he playfully pushed me backwards like I was not there, I moved round the side to pose for a photograph and me moved me sideways standing on my flip flop, glad me missed my toes.
Whilst photographing other elephants I heard a trumpet and the two I where photographing wheeled away as little baby ran between them followed by mother who had put out a distress call, the keepers jumped into action and calmed the situation and reunited mother and baby.
We where informed by our guides that the elephants undergo the same routine every morning before going to work about 11 am, Its not a commercial attraction that puts on a show every day for tourists, if we had arrived late after 9 am we would have missed the bathing, after 11am the elephants would have been out working in the jungle.
We passed through a very large town called Shimoga the traffic was again chaos, around the main bus station we encountered, tuk tuks, ox carts, lorry's, busses scooters bicycles and cars, each one sounding his horn in a cacophony of noise, the skill with which each person manoeuvred their vehicle was like motorised ballet in slow motion.
Tyarekoppa Safari park is about 10 kms away from Shimoga. Tigers and other wildlife animals roam around the forest freely; although fences are there to keep the tigers in the park covers 10 hectares (It's big).The tiger guides took us around the enclosures in busses with wire cages over the windows, when we found a tiger the would pull up and open the doors allowing those who felt brave enough to get a good photograph without the restriction of the cage. I took countless photographs, the driver of the bus allowed me to sit on the dashboard and photograph through the open door to get clear photos of a tiger less than 10 feet way. (I will post photos soon). It is difficult to convey the immense power size and beauty of these majestic creatures in writing so. I am sorry if readers fell a little cheated that I have not elaborated more about the tigers, I will let my photographs speak for themselves.
We had lunch in an air conditioned vegetarian restaurant, food again was excellent, on our way back stopped at the same village restaurant? At Agumbe to have a drink and comfort stop. Karnataka does not cater for tourists so the locals, especially children probably found the site of 30 European tourists a bit of a curio, whilst I was not scared it gave me an insight into how immigrants to Britain felt in the sixties.
Back to our hotel about 5pm for a shower and a whole two hours of relaxation before going to Udupi town to visit the Hindu temple area. As I had said earlier Karnataka is not used to tourists in the same way Goa is, Again I thought the locals found us a tourist attraction rather than their the other way round, whilst it was something we where both conscious of it was not unsettling. The temple area was amazing, I wish we had been able to spend longer there than the hour that we did.
We where allowed to enter the Shri Krishna temple whilst prayers where being held. At the back of the temple I watched open mouthed at the sight of worshippers saying prayers, prostrating themselves, whilst around me bells where being rung loud and vigorously, drums beating, a wall of noise hundreds of small candles the soot from them having stained the beams over centuries of worship. Combined with the low ceiling and the crowds it was a eerie but pleasant experience, afterwards we walked around the outside of the temple area before returning to our hotel and evening meal. On the third day we had the luxury of a late breakfast at 7 am before catching the train back to goa and being dropped of about 3 pm. We had a simple steak meal at Floyds hut that evening and had an early night about 11pm.
It's a trip that I would gladly recommend with the proviso that it was done during the first week of a two week break.
The remaining three days of our holiday seemed to fly by, spent a few roops at super tailor on shirts for work and a new suit for me, I received a nasty jab in the ribs from Mrs Mad when I commented that she looked like Paddington in bondage gear in her new leather duffle coat.
We where invited again to Crescey house for tea and cake spending three hours with her and her family, we only got to know her through shopping where she works, she expects nothing from us but our friendship, which we give unreservedly.
Our last but one evening was spent having a meal with Joseph and Lucia our hosts, fried aubergines in chilli batter, Kingfish with chilli breadcrumb coating, rice & vegetables and beef chilli fry. Again I can not reiterate enough what warm and generous hosts as well as friends they have become.
Our final evening was very low key as we had a taxi booked for 3 am, Auquib accompanied us to the airport and we said our goodbyes for another year.
Our passage through the airport was uneventful with everything going as smoothly as it could, taking into account that we where in India. The only sour note was trying to pay for two cups of coffee priced at 30 roops with a pound coin and it not being enough, I was informed their exchange rate airside was 50 roops to the pound. I declined to purchase the drinks and grumbled and sulked for half an hour. What I did observe was people paying for drinks with rupee notes, a lesson learnt for the future.
With all the fuss over visas, the negative comments and general uncertainty on the forum in the months or weeks prior to travel I thought this may have been pour last trip, I am pleased to say that not only have we paid our deposit for next year we are als0o taking two Goan virgins with us.
A our taxi approached the final mile to our house a little wave of sadness flooded over me, as I remembered the things that make me realise that I am home and the holidays over,
1. A comfy bed
2. Sitting in a proper armchair.
3. A cup of Chai chai chai
Hope you enjoyed this second half of my report, I will post pictures later today of the trip
GM06
Ian
-
Edited by
GM06 Ian
2008-03-19 20:21:30
Its not till you sit and reflect on whats happened on a trip that you realise what you have encountered.
I would imagine most people have similar experiences, they just dont realise it.
GM06
Ian
I would imagine most people have similar experiences, they just dont realise it.
GM06
Ian
Ian, thank you so much for your report, it has made such brilliant reading, and so glad that someone has come back still in love with Goa!
Looking forward to seeing your pictures
Michele
Looking forward to seeing your pictures
Michele
goan mad 2006 wrote:Its not till you sit and reflect on whats happened on a trip that you realise what you have encountered.
I would imagine most people have similar experiences, they just dont realise it.
GM06
Ian
too true. I have to say that I still reflect back all the time on our trip in October. There was almost an overload of experiences. You reminded me of a thread I had posted a while ago on the GHE forum- the most breathtaking sights on holiday. I've added to it just now. I'm wondering if your tiger experience would be one of your most breathtaking sights?
I think its pretty much near the top of my thrills list, although a tandem paraglide from the top of Mt Babagag (6295ft) and landing on olu deniz beach in turkey is pretty much near the top as well.
I am just selecting some photos to summarise the trip they should be uploaded in the next two hours
GM06
Ian
I am just selecting some photos to summarise the trip they should be uploaded in the next two hours
GM06
Ian
it was a pleasure to read your trip report, sounded brill, and very reassuring that maybe all is not lost for the Goa we all know and love
chilly
chilly
Enjoyed reading the report Ian. You obviously haven't been put off Goa like many that post on the forum. i have only been once but will certainly return next Feb. as i am taking Goa as i see it because i have no past history to compare it to.
Regards, Julian
Regards, Julian
Thanks so much, 2nd part of your report was also fantastic. Sounds like you had a brilliant holiday.
Gemma we had a great time
We knew about all the negative comments that where flying around the forum, we chose to ignore them
Have you seen the photos from the elephant and tiger trip to karnataka?
GM06
Ian
We knew about all the negative comments that where flying around the forum, we chose to ignore them
Have you seen the photos from the elephant and tiger trip to karnataka?
GM06
Ian
I have and they are brilliant, my granddaughter aged 3 keeps asking to see the baby elephant and the cow sticking its head into the restaurant.
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