FLIGHTS
Went My Travel non-stop from Manchester and no problems either way. Dabolim is improving year by year with better queue management and less hassle over bags. Got a taxi to Candolim from the stand outside the exit - 690rps. I think it was driven by the Indian stock car racing champion.
GETTING ORGANISED
As in previous years, I bought an Indian SIM card for my mobile phone (Idea network). You need to produce photocopies of the photo page of your passport and visa and have a passport sized photograph. All worked well for three days then I got "calls to and from this number are temporarily on hold" every time I tried to use it. I took it back to Ferrao Studio where I bought the SIM card and got the nodding head and an assurance that all would be well tomorrow. It wasn't. This went on for an unbelievable seven days, every day being assured, "tomorrow".
I'm not proud to say that I lost my temper with the bloke in there - we had a full and frank exchange and I suspect there were one or two phrases I used with which he wasn't familiar but the following day the network was miraculously restored. I'm fairly sure he didn't send off my completed form but I can't prove it - he certainly didn't deny it! I certainly wouldn't use Ferrao Studio again (it's near Bob's Inn).I understand you can buy a permanent SIM card for a little more, rather than the ones that last a year . Now that UK roaming costs have been reduced, it may even be OK to use your UK SIM- needs a bit of research next time.
I broke my own golden rule and hired a scooter at 150rps a day. It was great fun and allows you to get about so easily but it is dangerous!
There are some lunatics on the road and it's OK you going slow but if the guy who hits you is doing 50mph, it's going to hurt. But where else can you drive along a coconut tree lined road with the wind in your hair under clear blue skies and have to pull out to overtake an elephant? Magic!Got stocked up with mossie coils and essentials from Lawande supermarket. It's like Ronnie Barker's "Open all Hours" but unlike Ronnie Barker, this guy never smiles. There's a new, modern Newton's supermarket in Candolim - very European and unlike the usual Indian shops.
ACTIVITY
Spent many lazy days on the beach but also went to Aswen and Morjim which were much quieter and really nice to walk along. We also went to Panjim carnival on 2 February - that was an eye-opener! The parade was good but there were apparently two committees organising things and of course, this is India, so they don't talk to each other. One was advertising the start at 3pm, the other at 4pm. Standing around in 90 degree heat was not a lot of fun so we blagged our way into the sheltered VIP area and managed to get a seat. We travelled across to Panjim by ferry and it was obviously very busy. It is difficult to describe the pandemonium when hundreds of people are charging on to the ferry before those on it, many on scooters and motorbikes, have got off. Sheer chaos - queuing is obviously an alien concept in India. On the way back, a similar melee was in full swing and I felt a hand go in my pocket - I just managed to grab my wallet before a middle aged Indian pickpocket had it away. I don't speak Konkani but I think he got the gist of what I said to him. He fled into the crowd. You should take care with money and valuables in crowds - they're out there!
We noticed in the local newspaper that Jose Feliciano was appearing at the Kala Academy in Panjim and went to see him. He was terrific and the theatre was highly impressive - the equal of any in UK. The best 450rps we spent all month!
SWMBO was much taken with a new shop in Candolim called FebIndia. Clothes, housewares etc. I suspect you can get similar stuff over here but, hey, who's arguing?
This year we used the buses a great deal and saved a fortune on taxis (when I didn't have the scooter!). A 100rps taxi fare from Bob's Inn to Sinquerim is 2x4rps for me and SWMBO on the bus. Mapusa is 8rps and there's a non-stop bus from Mapusa to Panjim for 8rps! It seems more holiday makers are using the buses these days.
RESORTS
The three main North Goa resorts of Baga, Calangute and Candolim increasingly seem to be attracting different types of visitors. Baga is going younger with late night clubs and 24hr shacks, Calangute is attracting Indian people with the beach around the steps almost entirely Indian, and Candolim is more traditional tourist land. Russian people are increasingly in evidence and this year there seem to be a lot of young Americans. Never seen Americans in such numbers over there - perhaps there's a new holiday company promoting Goa.
There was some very windy weather and the beach has a ledge along it in many places where the sea has pounded the sand. Waves were very big on some days and the sea was dangerous. My brother went to South Goa for a few days and tragically witnessed the death by drowning of a Slovenian chap. The situation with the beach at Sinquerim is now becoming serious - some shacks are elevated on sandbags and others have just a few yards between them and the full tide. There will be some that won't be there next year unless something is done. Of course the River Princess is seen as the culprit and it's still there - lots of activity but no result -a peculiarly Indian phenomenon! We saw a barge alongside the River Princess being loaded, presumably from sand inside the vessel, and it steamed out about a mile and dumped it all at sea and came back - I'm no engineer but that seems like a job for life. You'd think that the guy who owns Kingfisher would apply some political pressure to resolve the issue - he's one of the wealthiest guys in India and if things carry on as they are doing, the back garden of his villa will be the Arabian Sea!
Goans were complaining that the weather was unseasonally cold and many were wearing hats and jackets at night - they should be where I am today - now that's cold! The press reported that Goa had had its coldest February night for over 60 years and that hospitals were full with people suffering from a virus caused by the cold! We never once felt cold but it did cool down nicely in the evenings for a couple of weeks.
Walk down literally any road and you see building work going on. There's a massive hotel being built near Calangute on the Saligao road. It makes you wonder where all these people are going to go - there's a finite amount of beach between Baga and Sinquerim and it's already getting crowded. I don't think there's any kind of considered development plan for the area - it's just build, build, build. The infrastructure is creaking already and when you factor in the water supply and sewage issues it makes you wonder where it's all going to end.
RESTAURANTS
We ate at several of the listed restaurants more than once - some a lot more than once. My comments are based on the opinions of a group who usually dined together, half of whom tended to eat vegetarian. I realise all restaurants have their good nights and their bad nights but all I can do is give an opinion on what we experienced. My apologies if we just hit someone on one of those bad nights! I've grouped them into "Fine Dining", "Restaurant" and "Informal/Cafe Style".
Fine Dining
1-95 Food was good but a bit Mastercheffy. I felt it was more style than substance but a lovely ambience to the place.
After 7 I've been a big fan of After 7 for some time but it lost a Michelin star this time - possibly two! Food was average at best - a steak was "stringy and tough" and wasn't charged. Staff and service, previously excellent, were a bit off the pace. Very disappointing.
Soumyens Kitchen This could be why After 7 wasn't up to par because this guy used to be the chef there. The meal we had was the best we had anywhere - wonderful. SWMBO was in raptures over the butterscotch brulee. Highly recommended - it's near After 7, tucked away down a dark street on the opposite side of the road. Look for the blue sign at the top of the road where the Candolim/Calangute road bends by the temple.
P.O.S.H. This is a new place in Nerul run by After 7 that does only breakfast and brunch. Great for something different but you wouldn't go every day!
Restaurants
Flambee Very good every time we ate there. The staff are great and if you ask nicely they'll even do some Punjabi dancing! Definitely worth a visit.
Maggies Oh Dear! I'd like to think it was one of those bad nights but I don't think it was. The staff didn't seem to know what was going on. Food served - no cutlery. Things coming out of sequence - and not great when it came. Wake up,Maggie!
Bob's Inn Another Oh Dear. The place feels a bit seedy but its fate was sealed when two rats ran over SWMBO's feet on a visit to the toilets. Not good. Bad, in fact. Very bad.
Bean Me Up This is an American run vegetarian restaurant in Anjuna. Great ambience in lovely peaceful garden setting. Very unusual tofu style menu and juices. Really good.
Roma Great when you want a change from Indian. Really good Italian food.
Stonehouse Restaurant featuring Blues music although the singer on the night we visited sounded like a constipated Willie Nelson. Food was good - especially the garlic bread!
Informal / Cafe Style
Viva Goa Great food at great prices in a roadside cafe.
Sher-e-Punjab Really good, clean cafe serving inexpensive Indian food in Panjim. Nice garden area at the back.
Plantain Leaf I'm torn here - I think their Super Thali is wonderful but the consensus amongst the others was that it wasn't great. I think it is - so there!
We also ordered pizzas from Dominoes and ate them on the balcony on a couple of occasions. The service is fast and the pizzas were delicious. If they don't deliver in 30 minutes, you get it free!
CONCLUSION
We had a great month in Goa - nice people, great food, sunshine and laughs. Will we be there next year? I think so, but, and I really don't want to sound churlish, I can foresee a time in the not too distant future when all the seemingly uncontrolled development that is going on will destroy the very thing that attracted us in the first place. People on this site have commented on Goa becoming a "Costa" and I now think it's a real risk. Hopefully there are a few more years before it happens!
but choc souffle in souymens k, cooked before your very own eyes is brill.
