I've been in Goa for a week now and got myself fixed up with a dongle so I thought that rather than post a report when I return to Blighty, I'd post a few thoughts, impressions and rants every few days whilst I'm here. We've got five more weeks to go and I plan to post something every few days or so.
I've always viewed the flight as a means to an end and not something to get het up about but our experience this time was a bit of a nightmare so forgive me going on a bit. We flew Qatar to Mumbai from Manchester and that was great but then we stood at the carousel in Mumbai airport for an hour and a half and our cases were literally the last off the plane. There was then the dash from the international airport to the domestic one on a rickety old bus going 3 mph. We sprinted to the GoAir desk to be told that we'd missed the flight. The departure time had been changed from 6.05 to 5.25 but they obviously hadn't thought that telling passengers about the revised schedule would be a good idea. I printed the online itinerary the day before we left and it still said 6.05 so it's clear that they're just not updating records and letting people miss flights.
There were loads of Indian people bound for Delhi who also hadn't been told of a flight change and it was really kicking off all over the GoAir checking in area. We had to wait 91/2 hours and just got on the next flight. Not a great start to a holiday!
Anyway, once here, that was soon forgotten. The sun was shining, the pound was at 78 rupees,,,what's not to like? Well one or two things, actually"¦..
We arrived on a national holiday weekend and the place was really, really busy. The traffic into Calangute was gridlocked. But more than that, the standard of driving seems to have got worse. I know that's difficult to imagine but it's really scary at times. Sat outside Viva Goa at night, a motorist hit a cow and the next night a lad on a scooter was knocked off it and must have really hurt himself. We drive a scooter over here but have been more cautious than ever. The roads seem busier with more lunatics than ever.
The farce of no alcohol after 10pm is just too ridiculous for words and is discussed elsewhere on the forum. I think Goa Tourism has a Sales Prevention Department somewhere in Delhi or wherever these decisions are made. Crazy!
The pound at 76.6 so I cashed a fair amount as it's been steadily sliding for several days. The day after, it went back up. Great!
Been to Anjuna today and breakfasted in OrangeBoom, did the market, chilled in Gurus Bar, watching the ocean and then a meal in Bean Me Up. Now that's a good day (except the market!).
Time for a beer and something to eat so bye for now.
great!!! keep us updated about the alcohol (or lack of it !!)
having a feni whilst reading. Hope your holiday gets better. Must admit that I really do not like North Goa. Much too crowded and getting really dirty and the driving... oh my God I almost died 4 times, once being pushed into the path of an oncomming bus and a few times being undertaken.
Great report Roma thanks for posting ...what about the poor cow was it ok .....colleen
Great report Roma, glad you enjoying, sorry to hear of your experience at Mumbai airport. all our best to your lovely wife.
I am looking forward to hearing more about your trip
Hope to see you at the meet!!
Called in to Ganesh shack to check on River Princess progress. Pleased to report that the RP is now reduced to a small hulk that is being dismembered and loaded on to smaller boats surrounding it. It should be gone before too long. Ganesh shack seemed to be resisting the soviet infiltration and was rammed full of good hearted Yorkshire people! A mixed blessing for a Lancastrian like me!!
Just further down the beach from Ganesh is a new flashy shack that has been erected by a TV company and apparently they film a reality TV programme there on some days. Will try to have look sometime.
It's maybe worth mentioning that the Reliance Dongle that I bought is superb. Really fast speeds and easy to use. I had to be able to use Skype because my daughter, in Australia, was having a baby whilst we're out here and obviously we want to see them - Joshua arrived last Friday and Skype reception is just as good as we get at home. It would have been nice to have celebrated Joshua's arrival beyond 10pm but hey, this is India and there's an election on! I digress - I would recommend this dongle to anybody who wants internet access over here. I think the cost was 1299prs for the dongle and about 2500rps for two months use (subject to download limits that I don't understand).
Went to Dreamers shack today and Alex and Francis are as entertaining as ever - we have friends arriving next week and will no doubt spend a great deal more time at Dreamers as it's convenient for all of us.
Intended to go to the Holiday Truths meet last night but forgot all about it - can't do next week so will try the week after!
Colleeen - the cow ran off so I guess it wasn't mortally wounded
Noel - You old smoothie - you made Mrs Roma's night"¦and regards to your lovely wife, too!
Goangirl - yes, hope to see you at one of the meets.
Nice report Roma I have to agree with you about the russians, they have got to be the most low form of life the way they treat the Indians
When I see the way they behave I try to look at it this way.
They are relatively new to tourism and my word have they had a tough history.
Over 25 million dead in World War Two.
By the way Roma loving the report. Please keep it coming.
Papa
Loving what you are reporting, wish I was there..
Great report today again Roma ...where is Dreamers shack we like to try new shacks every visit ..will we see you this time we come out on the 14th feb for 6 weeks ,,,,colleen
and gun point in her house near the Sonesta. Three men ran off with a substantial amount of cash but taxi drivers managed to chase one of them and beat him to within an inch of his life. The policeman came and gave him another beating before driving him off. His two accomplices escaped - back to Mumbai, apparently.
I also heard that some opportunistic thieves have targeted the rooms where one person runs to the bread man in a morning, leaving the door unlocked. They then go in with knives, frightening the half asleep partner to death and demand cash.
Last night I paid for my meal and the waiter came back to me and explained that the 500 rupee note I had tendered was a fake. I thought he was joking but not so. Upon close examination the Ghandi watermark on the left hand side of the note didn't have 500 written vertically alongside his head and the vertical silver stamped line was different. The reverse of the note was printed in a different colour. Check your notes carefully - apparently there are many copied 500 and 1000 notes out there.
On the brighter side, I had a shave and haircut at Om Sai barbers near Calangute post office. As usual I was talked into the usual face/head massage and was right royally ripped of at 300 rupees. I'm sure a local would pay about a quarter of that but he did a great job. I'm sure he will have phoned his wife and told her to get her best sari on because they're going out tonight - he's had another white haired numpty with more money than sense. I love the whole barber experience -lots of gels, creams and lotions that sting and smooth and smell like your grandad's old medicine cupboard. He's happy - I'm happy - no problem!
Mrs Roma had her hair cut at the swanky Snip Saloon on the Cal/Can border. They did a great job - better than her man back home and a third of the price. She will doubtless be back there before we go home"¦as I may!
Colleen - Dreamers shack is at the end of the path that leads on to the beach from the Sonesta. That's precisely where I'm going in an a short while!
I guess wherever you get a lot of money, you're going to get criminality. Goa is no exception. A couple of weeks ago a Goan lady was robbed at knife I also heard that some opportunistic thieves have targeted the rooms where one person runs to the bread man in a morning, leaving the door unlocked. They then go in with knives, frightening the half asleep partner to death and demand cash.
Last night I paid for my meal and the waiter came back to me and explained that the 500 rupee note I had tendered was a fake. I thought he was joking but not so. Upon close examination the Ghandi watermark on the left hand side of the note didn't have 500 written vertically alongside his head and the vertical silver stamped line was different. The reverse of the note was printed in a different colour. Check your notes carefully - apparently there are many copied 500 and 1000 notes out there.
On the brighter side, I had a shave and haircut at Om Sai barbers near Calangute post office. As usual I was talked into the usual face/head massage and was right royally ripped of at 300 rupees. I'm sure a local would pay about a quarter of that but he did a great job. I'm sure he will have phoned his wife and told her to get her best sari on because they're going out tonight - he's had another white haired numpty with more money than sense. I love the whole barber experience -lots of gels, creams and lotions that sting and smooth and smell like your grandad's old medicine cupboard. He's happy - I'm happy - no problem!
Mrs Roma had her hair cut at the swanky Snip Saloon on the Cal/Can border. They did a great job - better than her man back home and a third of the price. She will doubtless be back there before we go home"¦as I may!
Colleen - Dreamers shack is at the end of the path that leads on to the beach from the Sonesta. That's precisely where I'm going in an a short while!
Yesterday, after going to the dentist to fix Mrs Roma's broken tooth, we went to Resort Rio in Arpora for lunch and a lounge around their very impressive pool. Lovely modern hotel but a little bit soulless.
Everywhere there is building work and it makes you wonder how the infrastructure can cope with the demands of water, drainage etc. Near us is a new hotel, built by Punjabis that appears to be completely unoccupied. We had a look around some of the rooms and it is very opulent - a lot like some Thai hotels. They said they will take long term bookings (at least a month for 1200rps per night). I'm no financier but that doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
We met the daughter of some friends who is backpacking through India up to Nepal and on to China, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. What a great adventure - she travels on sleeper buses and seems completely unphased by the scale of her adventure. Part of me would like to go with her - the other part wants to finish reading that book on the sunbed! I'll do the latter!
When we were in Goa in December, the paper was running adverts for people to take part in an MTV programme to win the chance to run Captain Morgan's beach shack.
When we were in Goa in December, the paper was running adverts for people to take part in an MTV programme to win the chance to run Captain Morgan's beach shack.
That must be the one you mentioned a few posts ago?
Think you could be right Mobor One - it's called Captain's Shack but there doesn't seem to be a great deal of activity there. I guess the same could be said for us, too! We've settled into a very lazy routine of shack, reading, talking, shower, eating, drinking and sleep. Occasionally we have a trip out for breakfast at one of our favourite breakfast places, OrangeBoom, on the way to Anjuna. It's excellent - as is Kenny's,near the Calangute Panchayat. He only opens from 8am to 3pm and only serves breakfasts.
We ate at the Plantain Leaf in Calangute a couple of nights ago and it was very quiet - it's usually bustling. Their prices have increased but it's still great value and I love their thalis. I had a breakfast in there yesterday and there was nobody else in there. It's a bit worrying because for me The Plantain Leaf is a Goan institution and a great place for a no-nonsense, value meal.
My brother spotted that Shakti were appearing at the Kala Academy on Thursday night so we eagerly bought tickets. Their guitarist is the English John McLaughlin who we last saw with Mahavishnu Orchestra and Carlos Santana at Manchester Free Trade Hall in the early seventies! Now, I like my music and I rate John Mac as one of the best guitarists to come out of the UK and we weren't disappointed. They were absolutely brilliant - four virtuoso musicians with an Indian singer on stage for two and a half hours. Definitely a night to remember and a brownie point for brother for spotting it!
While in Panjim we ate at the Navtara and the food was excellent and great value. Spike - the only bars I know that are any good in Panjim are ones I'm sure you've already been to - Viva Panjim, The Panjim Inn and the Crown on top of the hill (no atmosphere and indifferent food but the view is great). I look forward to hearing yours and Billy's further discoveries.
As reported elsewhere on the site, my least favourite shop, Newtons, now has a competitor - Delfinos. It's quite good and the staff are marginally less hostile but they do still try to give you change in sweets and chewing gum. I stood my ground the other day and insisted on 4rps rather than a couple of chews. I wasn't popular but hey, I'm used to that!
Another demanding day awaits"¦"¦"¦..
Well they tried it on me but they come unstuck i insisted on my change they didnt like me either Roma but i think it's really getting ridiculous they'll try alsorts to get money out of you..
Really enjoying your report Roma, thanks
- Last night I paid for my meal and the waiter came back to me and explained that the 500 rupee note I had tendered was a fake. I thought he was joking but not so. Upon close examination the Ghandi watermark on the left hand side of the note didn't have 500 written vertically alongside his head and the vertical silver stamped line was different. The reverse of the note was printed in a different colour. Check your notes carefully - apparently there are many copied 500 and 1000 notes out there
There are fakes of all denominations especially the much used 100rp. The easiest way to tell is to look at the bottom of the note on the reverse side and in the middles should be the year of printing the note. It is missing from the fakes. The dotted line is not as pronounced and on the front left hand side is what looks like a large flower which is actually quite small on the fake.
Just looked through our notes and we have 50's and 100's which are fakes - nobody has bothered about them except the Croc shop in Calangute who puts everyone of them under a lamp.
Was in Luma getting change and the first 100 she gave was fake as was the second and third - in the end OH said forget it, just give me my change and they disappeared during the day to be replaced the following day.
Hey ho - it's Goa.
great report as usual roma. a few weeks and we will be there. its given me a taste for it again. sad to hear about the fake notes but have checked ours and all appear to be ok. keep up the good work love reading your excellent "tell it as it is ramblings" they are brill
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