Just returned from 4 weeks in Candolim and thought I'd contribute a report on things. I suppose I could just write; got up, went to beach, read a book, fell asleep, had lunch, read a bit more, slept a bit more, left the beach, had a shower, ate like a pig, went to bed and did it all again the following day.
However, we did interrupt this demanding schedule with one or two days of activity so that's where I'll focus my comments.

Firstly, let me say, we had a great time. Goa is changing but it still has so much to offer. It was noticeable that this year was that bit more expensive. We were getting 84rps to the £ last year and this year it varied between 68.5 and 72.5 so you're around 15% worse off before you start. Add to this the price increases that the shacks and restaurants are applying and you can see it's going to cost more. It's still not expensive but many places are no longer as cheap as they were - especially shacks.

We hired a scooter to get around. A daily read of the local newspapers will show you how dangerous that can be - horror stories of poor young lads (nearly always males) who "expired" or "breathed their last" after a scooter accident. We decided not to be put off - we don't drive fast. Blimey, with me and Mrs Roma on the back, the thing won't do more that 25mph anyway. We probably looked like the Roly Polys on the way to a gig but we felt like Mr & Mrs Lambretta 1968!

The second night I had the petrol stolen from the tank. I found out that this had happened to other people so beware! I don't understand why they didn't steal the scooter because the key giving access to the tank also starts the engine but I guess the thieves just want to flog the fuel. I bought a chain and locked it around the saddle after that!

Driving on the Calangute/Siolim road I was flagged down by two policemen who asked to see my driving licence. I didn't have it with me. I explained that people were stealing petrol and if I left my licence in the storage well under the saddle, it could well get stolen. I waved the chain at him labouring under the ludicrously misguided impression that as a policeman, he may have a passing interest in thefts on his beat. Crazy thought, I know. What he wanted was a contribution the Police Welfare Fund, although he called it a fine. He told me I should carry the licence with me at all times and the fine for not doing so was 900 rupees. I said that I didn't think so. The two policemen were the personification of arrogance and smugness and Mrs Roma detected the early signs of the red mist descending on me. She kicked my ankle and I reluctantly paid the strangely reduced fine of 450 rupees with gritted teeth in the sure knowledge that I'd been thoroughly and comprehensively ripped off. Little men with big badges.

Despite these early setbacks to our two-wheeled adventures, we loved having the bike and stayed reasonably safe. I'm not sure if there is such a thing as an Indian Highway Code but I'd love to read it if there is. The only rule of the road seems to be "Go for It". I adopted my own technique with roundabouts which was to approach them at speed and when about 10metres away, close my eyes until I reach the other side. This, along with Mrs Roma screaming at full volume, arms and legs akimbo, usually did the trick.

We were able to explore the back roads around Anjuna, Vagator and Chapora and there are some lovely boutique hotels charging silly prices. We put on our posh voices and got a look round - they're really lovely and would be OK for a couple of nights for a special occasion but way too expensive for bottom feeders like us: http://www.casaboutiquehotels.com/home.html. Chapora is a groovy little place but occupied almost exclusively by young Russian drop outs. Life seems to be centred around the Banyan Tree and juice bars in the centre of the village. Far out, Nikita!

It's always worth keeping your eye on the local newspapers to see what's on at the Kala Academy in Panjim. Last year we saw Jose Feliciano and this year there was an Indian illusionist called Gopinath Muthukad. He was sawing women in half, taking off their heads and all the other stuff these guys do. He was really good and it was a very professional show. We also went to the Inox cinema to watch Slumdog Millionaire. Brilliant film in a state of the art cinema, better than most in the UK, and it was great to see the film whilst in India. The bus to and from the ferry, admission to the film and a Super Thali in the Plantain Leaf afterwards - all for under 300 rupees. It doesn't get much better than that!

Whenever I'm at a low ebb I can take comfort in the fact that no matter how bad things get, the mosquitoes in Goa still love me. I was having my customary sundowner on the balcony, plastered in Odomos, encircled by mosquito coils when one of the little blighters skidded to a halt in the slick of Odomos on my leg. It was probably just inhaling the smoke from the coils when I dispatched it to that fetid pool of stagnant water in the sky. Either the coils or creams don't work as well as they used to or the mossies are getting a bit pluckier. Quite a few got through my defences. Whilst on mossies, the chemist told us that the daily tablets (proguanil) are not necessary and that a weekly 500mg chloriquine should be sufficient. Quite a lot of debate about that. We met a guy on the plane coming home who had spent six days in hospital with malaria whilst over there, so it's for real.

I have always had a reasonably relaxed attitude to getting charged more than local people for things in Goa so long as it wasn't too much. They probably need the money more than me. Somebody called it a "skin tax". However the longer I was there, the more it started to irritate me. Bread boys would add a few rupees, shop assistants would give you a crappy sweet instead of your change. I think the barber I went to will have taken the rest of the week off after he'd finished fleecing me (no pun intended!). The thing that really annoyed me was asking a street vendor in Calangute how much he wanted for his corkscrew. He asked for 950 rupees - yes folks, that's £13.50 for a corkscrew. I told him exactly what he could screw with it! It's not the money - it's just the principle of charging somebody more because they have a different skin colour. Try that in England and see how far you get!

We met some people from the Midlands in a bar who seemed very glum and when we spoke with them, the bloke just kept saying, "I don't get it". They had done nearly two weeks and thought the place was dirty, smelly and the curries were better back home (yes, yes and I really don't think so!). I was reminded just how strange a place Goa is to take a holiday when I found myself answering a lady in a shack who was complaining about the dogs wandering around by saying, "Yes, but they keep the cows away". You don't get that in Torremolinos! If only the dogs kept the Russians away too! I don't want to reinforce national stereotypes, after all, I don't go to the beach wearing pinstripes, buttonhole and a copy of the Times, but they do seem a dour lot. They seem to have no discernible sense of humour (how often do you see them laugh?), lack manners and show no self conciousness at all. Perhaps that's what you get after a century of rule by dictatorial zealots - guess we'd better watch out!

Walked by the River Princess and it's now in a bad state - looks like it could break up in a monsoon or two. Although I didn't see it, I understand Livia from Sea Waves shack at the Sinquerim end of the beach was on TV in a tearful protest about the lack of any action. Her shack is completely washed away - there are just a few sunbeds but no facilities. A real shame - we used her shack a few years ago when we were down that end and she is a nice lady and served very good food.

Goa is a place you either "get" or don't "get". If you go looking for something to complain about, you'll find it without too much effort. You have to be able suspend your normal critical faculties and adjust to life in a very different country - dirt, smells, corruption and all. If you can do that, and I guess most of us on this forum can, it's a fantastic place to take a few weeks holiday. Sun, great food and nice people on a budget that is still affordable. Next years digs already booked!!

I should add in conclusion that we attended four HT meets at the Carvery and we had a great time on every occasion. Met loads of lovely, interesting people (too numerous to mention) and got loads of information and had plenty of laughs. Thanks to Chilly and the resident gang for hosting us so well!

I'll do a report on the restaurants we used on the "Restaurants" thread in a few days.