Been meaning to post this for a week but am struggling to recover this time and still feel very tired. This was our 11th time to Goa and we went with my sister and her hubbie who were going for the 1st time.
Flew with Monarch from Manchester and dare I say it the flight wasn't that bad. On time, decent food, friendly crew. Only problem was once we landed in Dabolim there were 3 planes in so we couldn't get off and had to sit on the runway for an hour. Eventually got off and were ushered straight through immigration in record time. All in all it took about 20 minutes from plane to taxi. All in all I think the airport has improved massively on 2 years ago. Even our return check in was pretty smooth.
Stayed at Sunshine park hotel in Candolim and apart from a daily power cut we loved it. Lovely big rooms, nice pool and excellent staff. We hardly ever saw our little boy who was given a job waiting tables and paid 20 rupees a day for doing it. My sister hated it for the first 2 days then fell in love with the place and is rebooking for next Christmas.
First impressions were that things were pretty much as we left them apart from prices do seem to have gone up a little and Candolim did seem much quieter than last time we were there. Candolim beach was virtually empty in our first week and most places we ate at night were much quieter than 2 years ago. All the shack and restaurant owners we spoke to said they were really struggling this year and many of them were very worried.
We spent most of our time at lovely jubbly shack at Morjim as Nicky who owns it is a good friend of ours and picked us up most days and took us up there. Think it took about 40 mins from Candolim but seemed much longer with the repetetive horrendous music he insisted on playing at full blast on each journey. We had never been to Morjim before and really loved the fact that the sea is much calmer and you can actually feel safe in it. Lots of little rocky areas too where the kids caught a whole host of sealife including a variety of crabs,a squid and something resembling a sea snake. Loved the shack too and all the guys there were great. Nicky's business partner Sid has the most English like sense of humour I've ever come across in Goa and was the source of much amusement. Funny but he was even funnier after 3 or 4 kings and a couple of honeybees. My little boy was also given a job taking drinks orders at the shack and at the end of each day was rewarded with a free massage which he loved.
We ate at lots of places but still had some of the best food at ice n spice - though it has moved location. It's now off the main Candolim road just around the corner fom where it was before. Same staff as before apart from Nicky who left to open the shack at Morjim. Best evening entertainment was at sweet chilli where I'm ashamed to say we laughed so much at the weirdest version of angels I've ever heard. My sister is booking to go back next year just to hear that song again.
Lots of drinks were consumed and as per previous years the honeybee flowed like water. I'm sure it's the reason for many a strange dream I had during the 3 weeks - one of which involved me running down Candolim beach wearing a prom dress !!
Hubby and son both had a stint of sickness which lasted a day or 2 (hubbies definitely down to over indulgence on the food n drink front) so Nicky took me to quite a few places I would never normally have gone. The local fish market at 7 in the morning was one of them and an experience not to be missed. It was chaotic with everyone crowding around the fish and haggling. I was the only non Goan there and the cause of much curioisty with the children but everyone was really friendly and insisted on pushing me to the front to get the best view of the fish. I had to draw the line though when we went to buy 3 chickens and the man just slaughtered them right in front of us. Needless to say I didn't eat the butter chicken at the shack that day. During this time I also went to Vagator beach which was full of Goans who were on a days vacation and was really lovely and somewhere I will definitely go back. I also went to the sunburn music festival on Candolim beach (which is not somewhere I'd normally have gone) but I really enjoyed it (probably down to the vodka)and by the time I left was almost enjoying the horrid music I'd been subjected to in the car.
We went to mandrem beach for the day and loved it so much we spent a night in the huts there. Would recommend that to anyone and will definitely be doing that again next time.
The people were as amazing as ever and for me what makes Goa so special. They are one of the main reasons we continue to go back. I don't think theres anywhere else where you can be invited to dinner with a family you've never met before and made to feel so welcome. So much attention had been paid to the food and Nicky's family treated my children like they were their children and I found the whole experience very moving.
On a sadder note I witnessed a man get killed by a bus in the chaotic Candolim traffic around Christmas and a few days later was standing outside the elephant shop when a woman was hit by a car. Never seen that before despite the road chaos and hopefully never will again.
In summary we had a fantastic 3 weeks away and I can't wait to go back in February. Just need to shake off this tiredness in time to go through it all again.
excellent post. not long for me now, i cant wait
Never been to Morjim beach, but sounds so good thats youve persuaded me I need to add it to my places to go.
Where is Ice and Spice, that also sounds good.
Great report Sim, thanks for sharing with us, lucky you back so soon , thanks , shirleyv
Very good write up.
Hi Sim1
nice one!
Two great reports in one day! They're really getting me excited about march now
Good report.....can't wait to go now....roll on Jan 31st. I have already started packing!!!!
alway pop up to see sid and nicky at morjim when we're there, been visiting them since they worked at luvverly jubbly on coco for alex.
sid normally kidnaps our lad for a couple of hours and off they go on his motorbike to shop for fruit and stuff!
had a text and a call from sid over christmas also from our taxi driver aswell as a christmas card, off to see them again at the end of february.
love morjim too, worth the journey from candolim as long as you get there early and laze the day away.
taking some friends with us this time who haven't been before so im sure they'll find it a welcome break from calangute and candolim.
h.
My children were also whisked off on many a bike adventure around Morjim with Sid and Nicky and it really did make their holiday. They'd come back with armsful of sweets from the local shop. They are both wonderful with children and really loved them and involved them in everything they did. We spent many an afternoon by the rocks with Nicky, his trousers rolled up, digging knee deep in rock pools with a spade while Sid stood guard by the holding pool to stop the crabs escaping ! kids loved it Where else eh ?
As I said earlier we have always loved Goa but this time seemed to top the other holidays and we really have had a hard time coming back. My next visit in February I am going by myself and with my trusted lovely jubbly companions have been promised a round of festivals, clubs and local night time venues that are not possible with the kids. Not sure whether I should be excited or not ! I'm certainly going to take some music CDs for the car journey. If anyone is in Goa on 7 Feb and wanders by lovely jubbly Sid's having a birthday party which he says is starting as soon as he gets there. I'll probably see you there.
A great summary Sim, now it seems the gloom of the visa fiasco is lifting and people are actually enjoying their holidays Your report mentions places other than Calangute which we all have a good old moan about, so there is also a moral to your report, get out and discover Goa !!! Vagator is my favourite place on the planet and I very rarely leave once I get settled but your report has made me think about going up North a bit more than I usually do, can`t wait for your adults only Goa nightlife tour of Goa in February
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