Spent 3 months Calangute, Goa on a tight budget, with a short break down to Kerala. Will report later but in the meantime, if I can answer any questions please do post them.
Regards,
Paul, Norwich, Norfolk.
Welcome to the forums Paul
No. 1
20th January 2011
Having gotten over the cultural differences, I'm getting used to the Indian way of life and it's time to venture from Calangute. Calangute can be described in just two words - manic and mayhem. No exaggeration as Friday market brings utter chaos to the town. Millions of motorbikes weaving between taxis and tuktuks, locals and tourists. Monday I will seek out the bus to Panjim City, Goa state capital. Staying at the Village Royal - grossly overpriced for the standards recieved. Waiters and barmen don't smile, aknowledge or even show any emotion. However, some of the cleaning staff were cheerful and often said hello with a smile.
Todays Expense account
1. Bread omelette 25r 35p
2. Milky coffee 30r 42p
3. Bottled water 25r 35p
4. Fry daal, plain rice, naan and veg biryani 100r 1.42 ukp
5. Pot of tea 40r 57p
6. Hotel room 800r 11.42 ukp
Total 14.53 ukp
A visit to India isn't complete without riding on the local public bus service. An old bus, a hot day and narrow rickety roads (you get the picture) sums up my trip to the state capitol, Panjim. For just 20p single fare (they don't do returns) I was able to forget about the comforts that is British public transport. The 15km journey begins at Calangute Beach station with various stops towards Candolim - another beach area but not as manic! Onwards with random stops (whenever someone whistled) at settlements dotted along the road to Panjim. If you thought fly tipping was bad in England, you should see it here.
50 minutes and arrival at the biggest, busiest bus depot I have ever ventured to. A summary of Panjim - Noise, dust, fumes and dilapidation. Pitiful sights of woman holding babies making hand to mouth gestures. Kids in rags holding out their tiny hands, you get the scene . An hour here was enough for me, for a first timer, but I did stumble upon a vital piece of equipment for my scientific and hi-tec stay cool system - a spray bottle. Simply spray water on exposed body parts and the slightest breeze will have a refreshing cooling effect - 31 dec c today. Fruit sellers, woman selling spices, chillies and various other foods (ginger, spring onions etc.) in abundance between busses.
Back to Calangute for some nosh. 20p, standing room only, no chickens or goats though
This was my first visit to Panjim, subsequent visits changed my view point drastically.
That is a fascinating snapshot of life, I was able to see that as you described it, please post lots more
You've summed up the bus journeys perfectly was almost back on it with you ...........more please
Fry daal, plain rice, naan and veg biryani 100r 1.42 ukp
I LOVE Dhal Fry (and Dhal Tadka which is made the same but then they fry a whole dried red chilli in oil before adding to the top of the dhal fry) and try it in loads of places. I always ask for the recipe and have tried it at home but without being able to capture the authentic taste.
Jane from Tidal Wave beach shack in Candolim gave me a 'recipe' - actually a list of ingredients without quantities - and it was my best attempt ever.
Pitiful sights of woman holding babies making hand to mouth gestures
I hate this.
They also beg along Candolim/Calangute beach and, although I give to the obviously disabled beggars, I will have no truck with these women.
They pinch the babies to make them cry and we've seen them getting off the bus to Panjim to start 'work' and then seen them again waiting for the bus back, standing quietly amongst other Indians until they spot a European face and the hand-to-mouth gestures start again.
We've even seen one woman who has had the same age baby for the last 4 years.
The babies are rented for the day.
Intersesting reading thanks, love the local bus and ferry across the Mandovi.
Moving to Millies"¦ A significant accommodation upgrade for nearly half the price!
A walk down the Dr. Afonso Road reveals numerous guest houses - on the main road and down lanes in coconut groves. Prices range between 400 and 600 rupees per night, negotiable. I settled on Vitusia, owned by Millie and family. Very good, highly recommended and price negotiable - agreeing to 500 rupees per night for 9 weeks. Light sleepers might need ear plugs as just about everything on wheels passing has to sound a horn, even push bikes! Got used to it after a while. Contact: 0832 2279347 mob:9822482288 or 9822815884.
Double bed room with a security safe, ceiling fan, english toilet, running hot and cold water with shower and it's clean. By Indian standards this is five star. satellite TV is included for the princley sum of 7.14 ukp per night. TV in English consists of sports, Discovery Channel, National Geographic, God, CNN and BBC World News, plus 3 movie chanels. Funnily enough, flicking through the channels today, Friday, I noticed a football match with colours I recognised . They were showing last Saturdays Norwich v Cardiff match on an Indian sports channel with close-ups of Delia! Perhaps it's her cooking they like.
Lazy day today - lunch/early tea at Xavier's beach cafe, Baga, from 1 until 5pm then a stroll to the end of Baga Beach. From 6pm the sun sets making for some very picturesque photography. Music starts pumping as the sun falls below the horizon. Baga is renowned for it's nightlife - club's, bars and nightly fireworks. I didn't hang around for the festivities as I wanted to get back to base and collect my laundry before total darkness.. 6 bananas and a mug of tea at the Hungry Horse before bedding down at Millies.
Tomorrow, still need some clothing so a return trip to Mapusa.
Todays expense account.
Fry daal, plain rice and 2 coffees 185r 2.64ukp (as you can gather, I like the daal fry)
6 bananas 20r 28p
Bottled water, 25 tetley tea bags and UHT milk 55r 78p
Mug of tea 25r 35p
Room bill 500r 7.14ukp
Total 11.19ukp
great report,the beggers is what i particularily dislike about north goa,and we also only give to the obviously disabled.
we also only give to the obviously disabled.
Yes but even they want an arm and a leg today
Sorry I will get my coat
Yes but even they want an arm and a leg today
Sorry I will get my coat
Really enjoying your 'random jottings', please keep posting....
Elephant in the Street"¦.
As I sit having my porridge at the Hungry Horse, an elephant plods sedately along the street with priority over traffic - I wouldn't want to argue with it. This is my first elephant sighting outside a zoo and not in any kind of preservation park. Back into Mapusa today for some more internet time - cut short by a power cut. So, time to spend an hour or so wandering around, looking for photo opportunities. Saturday is considerably busier with loads of school kids wandering around waiting for busses - yes, they have to attend school Saturday mornings. Checking the price of socks and finding they are quite expensive and hard to find, 60r for 1 pair! That's about 85p (way to go Primark!), so the conclusion here is that Indians are not big on wearing socks!
Feeding time at the Punjab canteen , vegetable noodles and naan, bottle of water. Then a stroll to Xavier's for a cup of coffee and further sunset photography.
Today's expense account
Porridge and mug of tea 85r 1.21 ukp
Bus to Mapusa and back 20r 28p
Internet 1 hour 20r 28p
Noodles and naan 85r 1.21 ukp
Coffee and pineapple juice 80r 1.14 ukp
Tea 25r 35p
Bowl, spoon and mug 80r 1.14 ukp
Room bill 500r 7.14 ukp
Total 12.75 ukp
Love reading this Calangute ...will you add some of your photos please ...colleen
irishcolleen wrote:Love reading this Calangute ...will you add some of your photos please ...colleen
Hello Colleen,
I have loads of photo's but haven't figured out how to upload them so that they show up here. If you know, please spill the beans, thanks.
I have loads of photo's but haven't figured out how to upload them so that they show up here. If you know, please spill the beans, thanks
The easiest way is to upload them in to your Media Gallery http://www.holidaytruths.tv/ your user name and password are the same as your HT account, that way all your photo's are easily available to all via the blue 'View My Media' link located under your avatar on the left of the screen.
If you want to add just 1 or 2 in to a post you will find a BB code at the side of your uploaded picture(s) which you just copy and paste in to the post and the picture will appear.
For more info see http://www.holidaytruths.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=134235
Graham
Lazy"¦.
Lazy day today. Feeling tired so after breakfast at the Hungry Horse returned to the guesthouse and watched some TV, fell asleep and watched some more TV. After about 1pm a sea breeze develops which makes a walk to the beach less hard work. Found a shortcut to the beach (sometime after 1pm), avoiding the mayhem that is Calangute Beach Road. Lanes and tracks lead to behind the shacks and onto the beach. This particular track going towards the Rovers Return shack is littered with garbage - and poop, so watch your step. This is fairly typical of the area's behind the shacks from Calangute to Baga. Weekends on the beach are especially busy as Indians arrive from all over the place.
A note about eating at shacks: 1. Choose a moderately busy one, never eat where there are just a few people. 2. Stay vegetarian, but if you have to eat meat eat it at lunch times. 2. If you have to eat fish eat at lunch, especially prawns. 3. Choose a shack that's hooked up to water and a toilet - less poop around. 4. Choose a shack with ceiling fans as this will keep down the flies. 5. Good idea to avoid dairy products and only have milk if it's UHT or has been boiled as in milky coffee. All too often I saw food products stored out in the open of course surrounded by flies generated by the garbage and poop around. Xavier's is about 20 minutes walk from the Calangute steps towards Baga and fulfilled the above criteria with a good vegetarian menu. No bugs, upsets or troubles thus far. The beach view whilst having lunch is something to behold! The photos will show later.
Todays account
Porridge and mug of coffee 70r 1 ukp
Dry veg noodles and roti 52r 74p
Milk coffee 40r 57p
Cornflakes 500g 72r 1.02 ukp
Mug of tea 25r 35p
Room Bill 500r 7.14 ukp
Phone calls to the UK about 5 minutes 50r 71p (phone calls from the hotel were 4 x the price than those from a call box outside!)
Calangute did you meet a young man called Naeem ..(sp) at cXavier's shack he is a good friend of ours .and a lovely lad ...colleen
I don't recall that name. There were 2 boys there, mostly servicing people on the sunbeds. Late teen and Early 20's. You might be able to ID him from my photo's i will post soon.
Thanks Calangute cant wait to see them ...also looking forward to when you write some more about your trip ...
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