Hello all, seems to have been a quick 2 weeks, but really great they were as usual.
Flew with Monarch from Manchester and had to go via Larnaca due to overnight maintainence at Bahrain, decent flight and food/films etc.. not as bad as a lot are saying.
Landed 15 mins early at Dabolim, so we were thinking we would get a good half day down at the shack... no chance ! 1 Russian plane and a Thomas Cook in front of us so 2 hrs and 20 mins later we were out of the airport and in to the waiting taxi.
Checked in at the Sunset Hotel in Candolim and was down the shack just after 3pm.
Most of the holiday was spent on the beach (well the wifeys anyway) soaking up the sun and chilling out not thinking of work and cold wet England.
Myself and my good mate Jim went off for breaks from the beach most days, either having a look up and down side roads we have never ventured to before (amazing finding 'hidden' gems of places to stay or eat in).
We both ventured to Panaji for our usual yearly day out, via local bus and free ferry at Betim. This time we decided on walking to the back of the city rather than the usual Mandovi riverside and up to Mirramar beach.
Some great little streets and lanes are to be seen, along with the court rooms and Government buildings, and good views over the city centre street life of this very busy city.
I have stated before on here, there is more than the Reebok shops to go and see, we must have counted at least 6 art galleries or museums other than the one we saw and went in last year. But add to this some very nice clean looking restaurants and bars, you must get over there to find them yourselves.
We had a nice few cold bottles in a lovley place called the Panjim Inn, which has rooms available and a built in art gallery, great little court yard, very clean and presentable, and also some very welcoming staff. Spent an hour in here chatting to a couple from Finland who were 1st timers, and they left very happy with the info we gave them for getting to places and timings for when things were on (they had a tourist guide book which didn't give much info). We sat in here laughing at the 'Chuckle Brothers' chasing a Bee as big as a Pigeon out of there garage opposite the beer garden.
To finish our day in Panaji we headed for our usual place the Top Gear pub, but was let down with it being closed due to cables being laid along the road and no power on, so headed on to the Mandovi hotel to the bar on the balcony and had quite a few beers and a Mandovi burger - quite a tasty chicken burger with a wicked sauce and a cherry stuck on top (looked nice guys but leave the cherry off !) chatted for ages to the waiter serving us who was very well educated on world news and fully understood the economic crisis affecting everyone - great bloke called Nike (yup - not Mike).
Had to laugh at the ferry at Betim when it decided to pull away, and a bloke with a brief case came charging down the jetty when the ferry was 10ft out in the river, he must have been thinking ''I can make it, I can make it'', sadly he didn't, and slipped in up to his knees soaking his shiny crimpolene trousers. One of them comedy moments for you've been framed !
We all ventured north this year to Ashvem and stayed over night in huts at S2. Very quiet here and we had the only 2 huts right at the front which were spacious, clean and with private bathroom. Good food in the shack, nice sunbeds and no sellers - bliss.
Went to Calangute a few times during the day and tried various snack places and a few beers sat in the shade of the high street, people watching. Also ventured this way for a few evenings, calling in at the places we know and made an effort to get in to Molly Malones, decent set up in here and the famous 'Pauli' was the Dj, who we havn't seen for a few years and he recognised us straight away. Had some good British food for a break from spicy, but can't stand krapeeokee so left for Candolim.
We had a great night in Panaji, doing the evening cruise, and Delhi Darbar afterwards. Panaji looks great lit up and a visit for all is a must.
To round this boat trip off was the usual madness of the Indian men dancing on the stage, and as we were clapping and cheering, I somehow couldn't resist the offer of going on stage and joining them - it don't take much to pick up there dance routine and at the end was surrounded for a massive photo shoot with a boat full of new friends, just a shame no one had a pen for my autograph, I could have charged a load for that (my mate Jim was telling them he was my agent and would be back for next year !!)
Restaurants - in no particular order
1. Floyds - Candolim
Can't fault the place for quality and consistancy from previous years.
2. Cecillias - Candolim, Fort Aguada road
New to us and one I would reccomend, great food (top of the list for vindaloo from now on)
3. The Bistro - Candolim, Whispering Palms beach road
Good food as ever, even though the American chef has moved on
4. The Curry House - Fort Aguada road
Currys great and still big portions here, just as last year, but a great let down was one of the steaks ordered was off (tasted like yoghurt). We were offered to have another cooked for us but delclined and decided to share the currys as there were plenty. Dissapointed that we were still charged for the 'off' steak, didn't kick up a fuss - but they have lost us now for that one.
5. Chinese House - The Beach Road, Candolim
Excellent food and low prices, only downside was 2 missed dishes (which did eventually arrive) but would still visit here again.
6. Foxes - Candolim, down Highland beach hotel road.
Excellent steaks and cooked perfect - try the King Momos steak, quality.
7. Tonys - Casablanca beach road Candolim.
Used to be on the main road opposite Carmos, but has moved due to the new development.
Good food as usual and very busy on Sunday evening.
8. Delhi Darbar - Panaji
What can you say about the place.. excellent
Had a few nights on the beach also at Ganesh shack - can't fault the food in here.
Taking a walk down to Sinquerim was sad to see the state of the beach and the poor shack owners who are doing a great job in still trading. Lots of building work and sandbagging in front of the Taj to prevent more errosion problems, but I guess whatever they do will not stop the elements causing further destruction.
The River Princess - at least a dozen 'security' people on board 24 hrs - why, what could happen ? surely they would love someone to steal this thing if possible !! Local papers did report it as now being declared a national disaster, and now a world disaster by the Oceanography, and things look to be getting in place to sort funds to take serious action (maybe another 9 years of waiting ?)
Noticed many more Indians holidaying this year and reports say they will be increasing next year - no objecting to that, but please ban them from using jet ski's. One idiot thought it was clever to get within a few feet of bathers, if it had been me in there I would have waited 'till he came ashore and leathered him - maniac. Also the female Indians, do you really have to scream and shout even before you have set off on one, I don't want to spoil your fun, but it's time to take ear plugs to the beach.
Noticed a lot of places now open that were being built over the last few seasons, a very large complex of appartments/hotels/shops, should be open in 2 years (or less) at Candolim crossroads, lets wait and see if these will be filled and a make a profit or a loss.
As for beach sellers this year - far too many, but not a problem saying no, so need to be nasty to them.
The only ones I would allow are Ram the leather man (no hassle), Mr Shark Tooof, and Manesh who brought me a paper everyday.
We haven't booked for next year yet, but we will be going back, but I am not willing to pay the increase that The Sunset Hotel are asking - now up to 2000rps per day. Not a massive amount most would say, and for the quality of the place, yes it's probably worth it, but the way things are with work at the moment, who knows what may happen. We had a look in 3 places near the Sunset that ranged from 1000rps to 1500rps which were all acceptable places and included everything, so we are leaving things 'till January to book accomodation as I think they will be begging for customers and should get a good price, (I know Ganesh will enquire for us and get a better deal) - then again if the Sunset offers an improved deal then we may be back there.
Dabolim Airport
Get your act together !! what more can be said. Going home was diabolical, worse than ever in the 10 years we have been going. There seems to be changes every year, but the visa/passport checking is a complete joke. 3 flights all trying to get through at once and all due to depart within half hour of each other is pure madness. Listening to many people round you saying ''I ain't coming to this sweaty hell hole again'' just shows that not only the economic worldwide crisis, the tourist threats and obtaining visas is not the only problem forcing people to go elsewhere.
As for checking in - £10 per kilo for being over and they were very very keen with loads being forced to cough up. Now a couple of kilos for me shouldn't be a problem, not when they allow people with bulging mini cases that are way over the 5 kilo allowance but are never weighed ! (also damned annoying that they take up all the over head luggage space - ban them)
Ganesh shack.
Still a vey popular shack, and he does say he has had a great season, and April will be the quietest one as usual. Called in to see his mum a couple of times, just to see her lovley smile again, makes her day as much as ours (nice pot of tea again as well !!)
He seems to have done very well on evenings, as again this is the only one open down in Candolim at night time.
Ganesh, Yeshi, Santosh, Babu, Raju, Chef Raju - cheers you made it a great time again.
So now it's back to cutting the grass and preying for a good summer, and that Britain and the world can get back on it's feet again, lets hope so..
Spike
(Phil and Dee / Jim and Sue / Sarah and Graham)
Did you have to book the Delhi Darbar and river cruise or just turn up?
Thanks for the report
I have to echo your feelings on hand baggage. Every year wherever you go the hand baggage just seems to be getting bigger and bigger. It would be much better if they allowed 3/4 more kilos in the hold leaving 1/2 kilos to be used as "hand luggage" I agree that the sooner they ban small suitcases as hand baggage the better.
I know there's probably a lot of people who would disagree with me but sorry folks that's my opinion.
Cost is 150rps per person + 100rps if you want to be on the top deck with waiter service (well worth it)
Tickets are bought at the kiosk, and the 100rp ticket you pay for on board at the bar area.
The Dehli Darbar can get busy but has seating upstairs as well so is never a problem, all air cooled and excellent food and staff.
Spike are u old enough to remember the CRIMPOLENE.
Spike, great report good reading and info,pleased to know Floyds is still good love the
We however did not do any waiting in line I just flat refused.Went into the little restaurant had something to eat and drink and waited till the Thomson local Indian rep was practically apoplectic with panic telling us we were going to miss our flight.I knew of course this was rubbish and knew we would be stuck in an overcrowded departure lounge with 2 other flights.
Ended up getting fast tracked through security and the rep telling us we were the last two Thomson passengers through.Knew then I had timed it right.I was right about the departure lounge though.
All the tour operators use local staff to get you through to departure lounge and on the plane.I think they know the English reps would get lynched because of the appalling conditions checking in and getting through security.
Papa
Great report Spike.
x lassi
The trip down the mandovi for the sunset cruise is an old favourite too, a few times think we were the only non indians on it but soon made lot of new friends once the dancing started. For some reason a lot of Indian men seem to think my OH looks like some WWF wrestler called Steve Austin of course my OH doesnt get big headed with all the attention!! There must be 100's of Indians from the cruises and the beach who now proudly display on the mantlepiece a photo of themselves and "Steve"
chilly
Good report Spike. So similar to our holiday that I won't repeat it all. We stayed at the Santana Hotel, near the ship, so used Ganesh shack too when staying around our hotel area. Had a scooter though as per usual for the whole holiday and went all over the place. Loved it all- except departure experience. Our cab driver Deva, purchased our sunset cruise tickets in advance in Calangute and he took us, then on to Sheri-um-Punjab for a meal, then back to Candolim. Excellent night out for 6 of us. Highlight was pulling in at St Anthony's Tea Rooms on the way home from a beach at about 5.30pm a few times for cream teas. Took 4 Goa virgins this time, but only two of whom loved it and will return. We will definately go back next year. The Hotel was the best we have stayed in in North Goa, shame about the beach, but with a bike it doesn't matter anyway. Paid 180r per day and well worth it. Tootled around in the mornings, went to northern beaches or to Petes shacks, Saturday night market etc. So convenient, and a pleasure to be able to say 'no thanks' to the taxi drivers.
Oh- forgot to say, went to Rams a couple of times and met Chilly, LindaB, Irish Noel and Gemma 33 plus OH's. So nice to chat to people you feel you already know and all were so friendly. Mo
chilly
Gail
Hello Gail, I asked Ganesh to stock up on extra Kingfisher for you and Ray ! (and some vino - which we didn't have this year).
Shame the Sunset is hiking up prices, but if we do find a package deal (for a change) that works out better than booking independent flights, then we will be back there.
Just past the Mermaid restaurant and where Mai Tai is, you will find a new development called Sea Breeze. Take a look in there it's a nice set up. We had a look round one of the rooms and thought they were ok but nowhere as good as the Sunset, and only 1500rps per day. They also have a similar development down the beach road next to Chinese House restaurant and another towards Calangute.
JJ's at the top of the Whispering Palms beach road also has good rooms (better than Sea Breeze) and also 1500rps per day - so options for a cheaper accommodation within the area we want are there to be found.
One to avoid is the Casablanca. Could not believe they are asking 3000rps per day for March/April 2010 !!
Fogot to mention in my report the exchange rate. This was up and down daily (not known it move so much) and we got 71rps up to 74rps. This was the same as we got in 1999, but with price hikes all round this year, you do start to wonder which way will things go next year - will they price themselves out ? I know there was a mass invasion of Indian tourists in our 2 weeks, and I think its common knowledge that they are not ones for splashing the cash (except for jet ski's) so is it going to drop on us Europeans to keep the business's going.
There was a report in the Herald newspaper which was about the downturn of tourists and how to go about enticing people back next year and beyond, and was good to read that the tourism minister suggested that hotels should be the 1st to peg back there rates to a price that was suitable to all pockets. His following suggestions were a decrease in taxes for restaurants and shack licence fees, which should have a knock on effect to charge less. Still no mention though of taxi fares ! a tuc-tuc from Candolim to Calangute cost us 70rps - coming back it was 100rps, this time I stood my ground and only paid the 70rps, I'm not tight fisted, but enough is enough. The taxi that took us one day wanted 150rps, and surprise surprise he didn't have the 50rps change for 2x 100rp notes, yet again I stood my ground and waited 'till he shifted his backside to go get it (he didn't budge) so I asked him if he had any in the drawer at the side of the ashtray, the look on his face said he had, so I opened it - and there they were, a nice pile of small notes ! Don't give up on 'em folks, it's your hard earned cash after all.
The main thing is though, Goa is in decline just like the rest of the world, and there are many ways to turn tourism round so everyone benefits, it's just a case of them making the 1st move and us not giving up on them - something I wish never to do, but I won't be held to ransom or cheated on, I know the ins and outs after 10 years going there, (in some cases still learning I suppose) it's just a shame you still get treated like a 1st timer with no knowledge of how they operate.
My final observation is about Calangute, how anyone can compare this place to Blackpool is a total insult to a great British seaside town. I know Calangute has dirt and filth, not stop traffic, and beggers, but it's a working community 24/7 and just to sit in one of the roadside bars watching the place move with a buzz is great to see, so leave the Blackpool comments out.
thanks
forgot to add- i know exactly what you mean about calangute,we love sitting at a bar and watching all the hustle and bustle and madness - beats sitting on blackpool front any day (no offence to blackpool fans intended)
I like the buzz around calangute as well.Great reading spike.
Great report spike, thankyou. gel
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