Scotland & Cumbria, September 2011
We spent 7 nights in Scotland (Edinburgh & Fort William) in September 2011, followed by 3 nights in Cumbria. Here's the review of our trip:
Edinburgh
Accommodation - 39 Abbeyhill Crescent
(http://www.edinburgh-holiday-accommodation.co.uk/property.php?pid=248&type=sc)
As this was our 5th visit to Edinburgh, we had a clear idea of the location and type of accommodation we were looking for - a reasonably priced, 1 bedroom flat, with parking, in a quiet area within easy walking distance of the main attractions. After a lot of online research, we settled on 39 Abbeyhill Crescent, which turned out to be a great decision. It's right at the bottom of the Royal Mile, just opposite the Palace of Holyroodhouse and comes with access to a private gated car park. Although the building it's in doesn't look that nice from the outside, the interior of the flat has everything you might need for your stay in Edinburgh, including Wi-Fi, a fully fitted kitchen (with washing machine) and lots of storage space. It was great to be able to pop back there so easily during the day and we didn't have to worry about parking charges or bus/taxi fares. We love Edinburgh and will probably return in a couple of years time - if we do then 39 Abbeyhill Crescent will definitely be at the top of our list of places to stay.
Things to do
The People's Story, Royal Mile - This is a very interesting social history museum covering the lives of Edinburgh's inhabitants from the 18th Century to the present day. We particularly enjoyed the short film that was being shown on the top floor.
Nelson Monument, Calton Hill - The climb to the top up the spiral staircase is a bit scary but it's worth it for the views you get from the top. Best to go up on a clear day.
Gladstone's Land, Royal Mile - This is a well preserved old tenement house with rooms furnished as they would have been in the 17th and 18th centuries. Definitely worth a look around if you are a National Trust member.
Museum on the Mound - This tells the story of money, with various exhibits from the HBOS archives alongside more interactive displays. Another good social history museum.
National Museum of Scotland - by far the best museum we visited - you could easily spend the whole day there. It's worth getting hold of a map when you arrive to work out exactly which areas interest you the most - we particularly enjoyed the Natural World and Modern Scotland sections.
Places to eat
Pizza Express, Holyrood Road - We chose this restaurant for 2 reasons - it was very near to where we were staying and we had some vouchers from Tesco to use up. We went on a Saturday night and it was only half full, despite this the waitressing service was pretty slow and we were surprised by how expensive the drinks were. It was a convenient place for us to eat but other than that I wouldn't really recommend it.
Kismot Indian & Bangladeshi Restaurant - Having seen that this restaurant was rated as the best restaurant in Edinburgh, we thought we'd give it a try. Despite it being a wet and cold Sunday evening, we were given a warm reception when we arrived and the service didn't falter throughout the meal. The menu has a huge range of choice so it was great to be able to ask the staff for advice on what to pick. Also, if your curry ends up being too hot/not hot enough for your taste then they will happily take it away and reduce/increase the spices as necessary. It is best to bring your own booze with you, otherwise you can go to one of the shops on the nearby streets. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and will definitely go back on our next trip to Edinburgh.
Accommodation - Jacobite Hideaway (http://www.hoseasons.co.uk/cottages/S4614)
We initially chose Fort William as we had never been to the Highlands and there seemed to be a lot of things to do in the surrounding area. Hoseasons has a number of cottages around Fort William and we chose Jacobite Hideaway because it was well equipped and had great views over the nearby loch. It turned out to be only a 10 minute drive from Fort William itself and the views were certainly stunning (when it wasn't raining). Aside from the location, we were very happy with the inside of the cottage which is modern and nicely furnished, although it would have been nice to have had a washing machine and a freezer compartment. Despite the weather, it was always nice and warm inside and we had a very pleasant stay. If we were to go back to Fort William again then we would certainly consider a return visit there.
Things to do
Highland Wildlife Park - This was our main reason for visiting Scotland as we sponsor Walker the Polar Bear (and used to sponsor Mercedes who sadly died earlier this year). It was a fairly long drive to get there from Fort William but it was well worth it - despite the wind and rain we spent the whole day there. We particularly enjoyed being able to drive round the main reserve and also the chance to get closer to some of the animals at feeding time. Highly recommended!
Glenfinnan Monument - Sadly we weren't able to visit the monument itself due to bad weather but the adjacent museum is quite interesting. The views would be stunning in good weather. It's free for National Trust Members.
West Highland Museum, Fort William - Interesting displays about various aspects of local life and history - definitely a good option on a wet day.
Scottish Sea Sanctuary - The otters and seals are very cute and there are lots of other sea creatures to keep you amused. Most of it is indoors but it can get cold so bring a coat on a wet/windy day.
Oban War & Peace Museum - Absolutely excellent volunteer run local history museum - puts a lot of ‘professional' museums to shame. A ‘must-see' if you are in the area - Oban itself is well worth a visit too.
Glencoe Visitor Centre - Yet another great museum, well worth a visit if you are passing, especially if you are a National Trust member. Glencoe itself is amazing - especially if the weather is good.
Places to eat
Ben Nevis Inn - Very atmospheric pub, with a huge wood burning stove. Lovely food too - we particularly liked the Haggis, Neeps and Tatties starter. Was busy, even on a weeknight so you would probably need to reserve a table at the weekend.
Oban Chocolate Company Café - Huge selection of cakes, chocolates and hot chocolates for you to indulge in. Highly recommended!
Green Welly Stop, Tyndrum - Great place to stop for a drink/snack/break on your way to the Highlands.
Accommodation - Stable Cottage, Thornthwaite Farm (http://www.lakedistrictcottages.co.uk/)
We have stayed in farm cottages on holiday before and have always enjoyed the peace and quiet so we were very pleased to come across Thornthwaite Farm's website. Stable Cottage sounded ideal for the two of us and we thought the price was very reasonable for a short break. The cottage and location turned out to be every bit as good as we'd hoped, although once you leave the main road the lanes get rather narrow and bumpy. They have a number of different accommodation options - from cottages to caravans to a basic bunkhouse. Definitely worth considering if you want to explore the south of the Lake District and don't mind being slightly off the beaten track.
Things to do
World of Beatrix Potter - If you have any nostalgic memories of Beatrix Potter's books then you should be able to spend an enjoyable hour here, otherwise it's probably not worth the money.
Townend - A National Trust property that's not a stately home. We found it really a really interesting little place and the staff there were very friendly and helpful.
Lake District Visitors Centre - the exhibition is a good introduction to the area and the grounds are lovely.
Coniston Boating Centre - we hired an 8 seater electric boat for an hour for only £20 and had great fun pottering around the lake. One of our holiday highlights.
Tarn Hows - one of the many National Trust owned beauty spots in the Lake District. There are plenty of walks in the area but the circular one round the tarn itself it nice and easy. Would be a great spot for a picnic.
Beatrix Potter Gallery - Another small National Trust property with exhibitions of original drawings. Worth a visit if you are in Hawkshead, which is a lovely place to visit anyway.
Hilltop (Beatrix Potter's Cottage) - A tiny car park and timed entry tickets may mean you struggle to get in at busy times but it is still worth a visit.
Grizedale Forest Visitors Centre - Great location and lots to do but we found that the pathmarking didn't clearly differentiate between the short and long version of the routes .
As a general observation, we were quite shocked at the high cost of parking and the proliferation of charging areas. Make sure you have plenty of change with you - also don't forget your National Trust parking badge if you are a member as this will save you some cash. We'd also recommend getting hold of a copy of the Rough Guide to the Lake District - the village maps are particularly useful.
Places to eat
Lucy's on a Plate, Ambleside - we were looking for somewhere a bit special for lunch on our first wedding anniversary and came across Lucy's in the Rough Guide. We certainly weren't disappointed. The staff were efficient and friendly and the food was fantastic - so good in fact that we were only able to manage one pudding between us. We would definitely go back.
Many thanks Corinne. I always enjoy your trip reports. The flat in Edinburgh sounds interesting, especially as it has parking which is at a premium there.
what a great report with ideas for anyone researching those areas. I love the west coast but haven't stayed in Fort William- we have been to Oban. There are loads of things to do around it. And we always seem to get great weather. Edinburgh- haven't thought of a flat. We just go to hotels but might be worth trying a flat next time.
Do love it up there. Oban, Fort William, Skye, Inverness was a lovely jaunt...lovely places to camp seemingly at every turn (Apart from Inverness where the one we chose seemed to be a cm of topsoil on top of an old brickyard and a force 10 gale blowing).
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