arltogoa i go first thing in the morning i just want to say thanks for the tips. Im glad you found the time to post more before i go as im sure it will really help. you've done a great job in letting us first timers get a feel for the place. sunnypop.

Arltogoa

This is great you should be writing books.

Donna
XX

I'm sooo enjoying this. It's bringing back all the memories of how Goa really is.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Gail

When can we expect the next instalment?

Great stuff, you describe it so well

I'll work on it this weekend, there's so much to tell and I want to get it down before the cold sets in my brain and I forget

arltogoa2006 this is great, it could turn into an epic and I want to read them all before I go in April fantastic roll on part four

COMPLAINTS, EXCURSIONS, COOKING LESSONS, AND MEDICAL EXPERIENCES - PART FOUR

We complained to Elsie (jitc rep) about the hike up to our room, the state of the bed accommodation and left it in her hands the next morning. It took us til the next day to get a single mattress on the floor for the little one and another 2 weeks to get moved to a lower floor. That was the only issue the holiday!

We booked to go on the Go Wild Tour for the following week. It's a condensed tour of 2 days with an overnight stay in the Jungle, food and entrance into the various places paid. It cost us £170 for four people.

We met the 12 seat bus at Maria Hall (the main cross roads in Benaulim) there were 10 of us all together. One of the couples (the names escape me) were really comical, an English couple who had travelled to many places constantly singing scout camp songs!

We started off with a visit to a Cashew nut factory. Totally amazing, how those girls can move that machine so quickly, I wouldn't like to hazard a guess at how many have lost fingers. The girls get paid in piece work, yes that's per nut! They come out with the equivalent of 50-75 pence a day. We stopped off at a market near to Bondla Wildlife Park which is inside a protected National Park, to get banana's, peanuts etc for feeding the Elephants.

We next visited a traditional Basket Weaver and Dilip our tour guide explained to us about the caste system and that the Basket weavers were now considered outcasts, as their trade was a dying one. Even if a basket weaver retrained and became a solicitor/lawyer he would still be considered an outcast and would be shunned by his family. We had the chance to buy some gifts off the Weavers so numerous friends back home now have little fans and plant pots which cost 30 ruppees each. A far cry from the 100-200 rupees for a glass bangle outside the Hotel we were staying at.

As we drove through the winding dusty roads the landscape was ever changing. There would be great gapes in the landscape to make room for the paddy fields. Then we would be travelling through a forest. There were lots of different trees (I think I was expecting just Coconut trees, for that was all I had seen up to now). We stopped off to fill up with fuel; it's the same price as it is here in England, no wonder so many Goans travel 4 up on a scooty!
On entering the Wildlife park, you get an extreme sense of tranquillity. Monkeys play in the road until a vehicle arrives, they then scream at you and scamper off up a tree as if to say "stop spoiling my peace". You can hear a jangle in the distance and come across a few people walking an elephant to the streams.

We arrived at "Backwoods Camp" which is owned privately; they are very ecological and protect their environment with enthusiasm. The amount of people who bring in plastic bottles and just leave them at their backsides is crazy. Dilip walks around with a bag collecting any plastic he sees, it's not bio-degradable and a big problem in Goa and a lot of other states in India.

The Backwood's Camp has Rajasthan tents and little Huts for accommodation, http://www.holidaytruths.co.uk/gallery/Pictures-Various/DCP_0854 the tents are better as they are not as damp, I got the most racking dry cough, but the experience was well worth it. Lunch is provided and is so tasty, Pumpkin curry, chicken curry and sundries. There is a bar available to have a drink. We had lunch and 15 minute break then went to see 'Sarasweti' the elephant who we would be working with. We fed her Banana's and walked with her and her trainer down to the stream for an Elephant shower.

The Elephant shower consists of getting into the stream and climbing onto the elephants back the trainer then touches the elephants' leg and she lifts her trunk and splashes water all over you. It's not a good idea to go on this trip if you have limited mobility and some of the walking can be on rough terrain.

As Sarasweti was led to the stream she decided she needed a wee, WOW! Can they wee! http://www.holidaytruths.co.uk/gallery/Miscellaneous-Pictures/DCP_0850
So obviously, there was a bit hesitation as to who was first to get the elephant shower. Majority decision prevailed and we all moved further up stream. My eldest went first and he loved it. We captured it all on camcorder. The little one was a bit scared so she was given the privilege of washing 'Sarsweti' with the trainer. We found out loads about how they train the Elephants for touristy things like this and for the building work that goes on. The stick that you see trainers with has a claw on the end and they pinch the elephants hoof. I'm not sure this is the right thing to do, but then dog training for police etc can be quite cruel too.

We went back to camp, and then it was dressing up time! The men dressed up in nappy like bottoms and long shirts. The women dressed in Sari's. We then went to a village in national park, it is very poor, but we were invited into one of the villagers' house for the best onion bajhi's I've ever tasted and the loveliest Masala chai (Tea). The Children of the village sang us songs in English and we then gave them sweets, colouring pencils, books and clothes that we brought with us. We were discouraged from bringing money for them by Dilip the guide.

Part four to be cont'd........

arlto.

Have enjoyed reading your reports. we are off ourselves in two weeks time. We will be at Colva which got a mention on one of your reports.

I was also waiting to read about 'ccoking lessons' which was part of your heading.

Did you manage to have any cooking lessons anywhere as we are very interested to do that. I was thinking of going to ask a shack owner if they could help.

Where is that ice-cream place you found in Colva?

Cheers! great report!! thanks.

Pedro,
Cooking lessons in next installment am working onit at the mo Part four is a long one as sooooo much to get in.

coming into Colva from Benaulim (South) you come to a roundabout where a big yellow restaurant is it says something about (Tony & ?, from Manchester) on it I think, turn right and you will see baskin 31 Robins on your Right. It is a small shop with pink and purple signs. I hope you find it, try the Fruit Overload it's to die for!!!!!

regards
Arl

That restaurant/hotel is Jimmy and pat's from Manchester. Nice place for a beer or two but they seem to cater for Brits who are on 'withdrawal sypmtoms' from lack of of British food!!!

So that ice cream place by your directions is up towards the big church?

yeah that's right there's a little row of shops and baskins' is there. Gossip has it Jimmy and Pat have sold up!

anyhow here's the continuation of part of Part 4....

Back to Camp - dinner Again some of the nicest food I've tasted so far, freshen up and then drinks of fenni, beer and dancing round the camp fire. In between bursts of songs from the 'Scout Mistress' and her henpecked husband, who by now was getting quite annoying, a Goan Folk singer played drums and got us all up dancing. Son and hubby (who had a bit too much fenni) were making up English words to go with the music and making us laugh. We were completely shattered and Boo (daughter) fell asleep to the beat of drums and singing. The chef also made special meals for my kids (not too spicy) which I thought was a nice touch. We retired about midnight, the next day proved to be a grueller.

We were up at 7am, breakfast then into the jeeps to take us to Dudsghar Waterfalls (1 hour away). We stopped off at a hindu temple on the way, it was very old and architecture would love it. To get to the waterfalls once inside Mollem National Park you have to take a jeep through rivers and rocky terrain (not good if you have a back problem as it's quite a rough ride) then a 30 minute walk over rocks and things. It sounds quite hard going but you have Monkeys following you and taking nuts and banana's out of your hand. The kids loved it. http://www.holidaytruths.co.uk/gallery/Pictures-Various/DCP_0887
The waterfalls are breath-taking 'Dudhsagar' in Konkani means 'Sea of Milk'; it gets the name from the foam of the water cascading down the Cliffside into big holding pools. http://www.holidaytruths.co.uk/gallery/Dushagar/DCP_0890_001We all got in and swam but it's nothing like the 80 degree sea on the beaches. IT'S FREEZING! Only 1 area is really safe to enter the pool, as the rocks and the depth is quite frightening if you are not a confident swimmer. http://www.holidaytruths.co.uk/gallery/Dushagar/DCP_0892
We dried off and got in the Jeeps for transfer back to the coach and last stop was lunch and a tour of Sahakari Spice Farm, ponda, Goa http://www.sahakarifarms.com/. This was great and lunch is included. They also show you how to toddy tap, but only if you can get up the tree. Have a look at the website.

Well back to the hotel, hubby had a massage straight away to get the pain out of his back from the jeep ride. It was gone after one session and cost 200 rupees.
COOKING LESSONS

I'm a bit of a cook, never got that marrying of spices thing though when cooking curries, so I went about seeking cooking lessons. Royal Palms boasted cooking lessons on a Wednesday but their rota of activities never seemed to materialise unless you badgered them into it. We frequented Emerciana Restaurant in Benaulim (just 500 yards to the left of Royal Palms) quite a lot and Apollo the owner seemed to take to us as a family. Boo played with his little girl a lot and he was so lovely and reasonably priced food. He might have felt guilty because his waitress fleeced us for 1200 ruppess for the 1st weeks washing, we found a laundry down the road (Annie's) to do the same amount for 500 ruppees. But hey! we live and learn.

Beejay is the chef there and they specialise in Goan and seafood cuisine. He gave me 2 hour lesson (you need to get there at about 11am as this is prep time and it's also quieter. Beejay took me through making tandoori masala for fish, chicken and tikka masala's. This is basically the basic masala (mix of spices) for most dishes. I learnt Butter Chicken, Goan Fish Curry, Vegetable Masala and of course the Tandoori paste. All for the price of a packet of cigarettes and a recipe for Cottage pie and fish pie. Apollo called me the day before I left and handed me a carrier bag full of spices to take home. How sweet is that?

http://www.holidaytruths.co.uk/gallery/Benaulim/DCP_0824MEDICAL ISSUES

Hubby had a problem with his ears after landing in Goa and we had to call the Doctor, 400 rupees for Dr Bosco Vas to visit us and supply the antibiotics, pain killers and arrange for Hubby to go to his specialist clinic in Margoa to get his ears sucked out at a further 500 rupees. Oh my goodness, you should have seen what came out of his ears Yuck!

Son got bad case of Delhi Belly and had to have injection to stop sickness, tablets to stop fever, pain, rehydrants and something else (can't quite remember). That cost 300 rupees.

My ears got blocked and then started weeping, he sorted it out in a couple of days. And I got a damp cough from being in the jungle and it's the worst type of cough (Bit like whooping cough), still getting rid of it, but he did help and all for 300 rupees.

All in all Boo was the only one who got away with out having to see the doctor.

Trip into Town - MARGOA

The first time we went into Margoa we got charged 300 rupees one way. On the way back we got charged 150 rupees. 'What is it with this place, they seem to charge you what ever they like'. It was this incident that made me decide on my strategy when buying; If they asked 300 rupees for a rickshaw to Margoa "Which seemed the price the charged all the newbies, I said "I normally go to Margoa for 75 rupees" The rickshaw driver would wobble his head and say "Oh, Okay". I got asked a lot if I was here for the first time, HINT* Do Not say "Yes" it's a go ahead to get ripped silly.

MARGOA is great it's one of my favourite places, it's full of little rabbit warren indoor markets, and the shops are so cheap. Tailors galore! Too I got 3 business suits made for 2000 rupees each by Excellent Tailors, (near to Gaylins, Chinese Restaurant). I went to places such as Diners, and the Caro Centre but they were charging silly prices like 7000 rupees for the same cloth and design, but I think they cater for tourists, Excellent Tailors caters for Locals. A lot of shops and business pay the taxi drivers to take you to shops and the shop owner gets the extra money out of you the tourist. This doesn't happen so much in Margoa, but the big shops do it.

Anyhow prices get cheaper and cheaper in Goa and by the end of our stay we were getting rickshaws from Benaulim to Margoa for 50 rupees and back for 50 rupees too. If you want spices get them in Margoa's indoor market. It's not worth buying Saffron though; contrary to popular belief saffron is not grown in Goa as the climate doesn't allow it.

ANJUNA FLEA MARKET / PANJIM

Our trip north didn't impress me much, I'm sorry to say. Although Anjuna Flea Market was a giggle with the sellers, what ever price they said we said no,no and said a tenth of the price. They would either try to get you to raise your price or walk off. We got a few bargains like a 950 rupee chess set for 75 rupees, boxes and trinkets that were 450 rupees each for 50 rupees for 2 items, spices that were 200 rupees for a strip for 20 rupees and so on. The colours and smells and bustlyness of the place are cool though.
We wandered on to the beach and it seemed really dirty compared to the south, there were oil slicks on the sand, and tourists were out of their heads wandering round aimlessly on the beach, some were shouting and screaming. We hastily retreated and went to Panjim.
What a mistake! It was awful, just a concrete splodge on the map of Goa really.

Photo : Panjim http://www.holidaytruths.co.uk/gallery/Panjim/DCP_0992

However, saying this maybe I just visited the wrong places.

JEWELLRY, proposals and will I return .to follow .

I thought it a good idea to give the report a temporary sticky so everyone can get a chance to read it. We all know how quickly posts sink in this fast moving forum!!

arltro it gets better & better, bring on part five.
One little question how did you remember it all?? it must be the most comprehensive post that I have ever read.

Great idea Fiona

Who needs Kate Adie when we have altogoa2006 to tell us how it is?

Please hurry with the next installment..the best travel report I have ever read!

Yes a great report, love your descriptions - I agree about how cold the water was at the waterfalls , but it was so beautiful, I have to say we visited North Goa at Xmas it was our first trip there and we fell in love with it, I wouldn't mind trying the south though after reading your fantastic report - like Whiskas says can't wait for the next bit..

Excellent reports, keep them coming.

I forgot to mention that on the Go Wild Tour we also had chance to ride Sarasweti (Elephant). We rode bareback and went two up. I was more scared than my 5 year old. and it's extremely high up. As the elephant walks you wobble from side to side, it's not for faint hearted