The days were just spent on the beach. Mainly using Jolly Jack's shack. The first day it was very windy, but hot. Despite putting on a high factor and only having a couple of hours out of the shade I managed to burn myself. It was factor 50 on the burnt bits for the next few days. Funny thing is though that after spending more time than I've ever done before in the shade and only have 4 clear days to sunbathe I came away very brown and husband looks as if he has been away for weeks on end. Strange. I enjoyed sitting in the shack with my lime soda and watching the world go by. Food was also good there. Loved the stuffed pappads. The beach sellers did not annoy us at all. They always accepted the no first time. Yes, there were a lot of them but we are used to that in other destinations we've been to. It was interesting comparing the beach to what is was in October. There were only a couple of shacks then- now it was wall to wall shacks. However, there were always plenty of sunbeds to choose from. I had expected to see a dirty beach but this was not the case. They had men picking up rubbish all the time.
I loved watching the sand walk. You just watched someone getting off their sunbeds and making their way to the shack without anything on their feet. To begin with, especially if it was a man, there is pretended nonchalance as they saunter up. Then the steps get quicker. Then you have the ballet dance as they tried to keep their feet on the sand for as little as possible. Finally all thought of what they look like is cast aside as they break out into a run.
One thing that annoyed me is just how many woman showed a total lack respect for the customs of the country they are in, and went topless. Can they not look around them and see that any Indian going into the sea was fully clothed? I'm sorry, if topless bathing is essential for a holiday- then go elsewhere. I remember in Barbados a few years back, watching a topless bather being approached and told to put something on. Perhaps that is what is needed in Goa? I'm sure we are all guilty of wittingly or unwittingly going against the customs of the country we are in from time to time but this is such an obvious disregard.
I noted a lot of local families coming down to the beach and it was nice to see. You hear so many tales of children being misused( and see instances) that it is great to see how much love most locals have for their children. The family of the the man in charge of the sunbeds was fascinating to watch- particularly one boy, who found hours of pleasure with the simplest of things. Once we watched him trailing around a bottle filled with sand on a piece of string as if it were a train and the look of delight on his face brought tears to my eyes.
Of course we also the women with their babies begging on the beach and those who were sent round to do a dance or acrobats.

We too like Jolly Jacks, did you use their little salon at the back? Cant remember the name of the young girl in there but every year during monsoon she goes to college in Panjim to get the qualifications for her trade. We found them better than last year when the staff were actually trying to sell stuff all the time but this year she has stopped it and so its more relaxing

she did give us her price list when she was over chatting. I found the staff friendly and only one tried to sell us something.

Her prices were up quite a bit this year but because she remembered us from last year we got the old prices, theyve been there for 15 years now and have customers who have been with them that long too

Hi just thought that I would give you the trip report of Fiona's Luggage's Holiday Trip. Hope you like it. If you do, will give you more installments

The plane truth: The secret life of Fiona's luggage (1)
The taxi to the airport was on time, the queue for check-in was a paltry half-mile long, the girl at the desk smiled and Fiona smiled back and got a window seat. Fiona even remembered both passport and ticket this time. With a sigh of relief, Fiona waved bye-bye to me - her suitcase, as we jerked out of view on a conveyor belt, into the bowels of the airport. Last I saw of Fiona was her back as she went in search of a self-congratulatory tea. This is what happened to me - Departing Baggage Systems did an "input" . I had a tag with a barcode to it, attached to me before sending me along the conveyor belt, where I was screened (unnerving that!), and was supposed to be sorted into the baggage cart that had been assigned to Fiona's flight, and then loaded on to the aircraft. If all went well, Arriving Baggage Systems, when we landed, would unload the aircraft, stack the luggage on to a cart and then unload it on to the designated carousel in the arrivals hall.
But what happened next? I had the terrible experience of a tangled system of conveyor belts, sharp corners, wet floors, clumsy hands and trucks! Oh, Fiona, what blind faith you have, thinking that you would see me again!
I spoke to a foxy young Samsonite, next to me, who had obviously travelled the world. Anything to chat up a handsome piece, with great bodylines. Now Samsonite had already done this route five times earlier. And had the inside story. From what I heard, the week that we left, for our bit of sun and sand"¦ there had been a cancellation of 430 flights from Heathrow's new Terminal 5, and faults with the terminal's automated baggage-handling system which spelt disaster for travellers - and created a mammoth backlog of lost luggage. I just knew it, I just knew it - I was going to end up lost. Now if only, I could be lost with the Samsonite, then I could live with not giving Fiona a last good bye.
How true my thoughts were - I will never know. I think that's because I read the book - The Secret - and those thoughts were captured by the Universe and made true. Samsonite and I were among 20,000 cases that went by road to Milan, to be processed at a sorting facility before I could be reunited with Fiona.
I thought it was a crazy plan but it made sense to the airline. There is no glory in losing passengers' luggage. If a bag is mislaid on a short-haul flight, it can cost the airline more to find and return it than the fare the passenger paid in the first place. Wow, can you imagine, my travels alone could have financed a trip around the world for Fiona.
Samsonite also told me (how well informed can one get?) that back in the summer of 2007, the airline got into the habit of sending luggage-only jumbos to the US in an effort to return passengers' belongings. Was I going to see New York again? Oh gosh - I wonder where Fiona was by now and how she was getting on without all the stuff that she managed to squeeze into me.
Now, here is some more news that I learned sitting in Milan. Although it takes 24 hours to transport luggage from Heathrow to Milan before being returned, bizarrely it's quicker than sending the bags all the way by air, due to the screening procedures, which are extra- tough when luggage is flying without an owner. Like me!
Terminal 5, despite having the most hi-tech baggage-handling system available, still cannot process delayed bags on site. Samsonite loftily told me that insurance claims on lost luggage are at a record high - I will ask Fiona next time to claim the insurance.
I felt really terrible. But I had some great companions. A tiny meek looking LV bag spoke up - she had the terrible feeling being a single, ignored bag left on a sun-baked runway at Dubai airport one time. She was forever left with the feeling "No one cares". A really tired looking hold-all told me about going round and round, endlessly, on a carousel. And from all around my companions spoke up - 'My handle was torn off in Mumbai", " My zipper went missing in Barbados', "I spent my last journey travelling at a 90-degree angle," "I was to go to Delhi, but ended up in Alaska for two weeks!" And a V.I.P - no I don't mean Very Important Person - its an Indian brand of luggage spoke up. "Teething troubles at Terminal 5 are as nothing compared with the early days at another international airport. There were scenes of clothes and other belongings strewn across conveyor belts; the machinery designed to move items from belt to belt also had a tendency to toss luggage off belts and on to the floor. The system was eventually jettisoned in favour of a manual alternative."
And another experienced soul who was wrapped tightly in clear plastic and about whom I have always thought the owners a touch paranoid told me another story. Sometimes baggage handlers routinely went through every bag on every flight, removing any valuables. Now I was really scared - how would I face Fiona again with anything missing?
A really hot looking LV told me another story - how LV had trained their owner to take as little as possible and take LV into the cabin with them. It seems their owner would take about three pairs of stilettos on holiday, then wear her trainers constantly for two weeks. So, next time we fly, Fiona, ask yourself: do I really need to take my cowboy boots? Can I get through a fortnight with one pair of jeans? Travelling light may be the only sure way that both you and I will go on the same holiday. Having said that - I had a fantastic holiday
More on my holidays soon

Loving it, keep it coming

on a more serious note, my son flew into H/row from Oz on Friday at the start of a three week business trip to Europe, he flew in on Catay Pacific and transited H/row and flew out to Amsterdam on a KLM flight, as they are in the same Alliance and as the transit time was three hours his luggage was routed directly through to Amsterdam. Yes thats right, on arrival at Amsterdam, no luggage ! He's only in Amsterdam till Monday then his itinery takes him round a lot of Europe, so the chance of his luggage catching him up is debatable. So it's not just teminal 5 and BA thats rubbish, the entire baggage handling throughout the airport is shocking, I,m just sorry for people in that part of the world who have to use it, as the whole infrastructure is "not fit for purpose" Alan

Lovely report Fiona, can I ask where is Jolly Jack's ?

smartpati
that was just so funny If you are adding to it perhaps you could explain why my case looks as if it has been in the wars. I'm sure it must have had a punch up somewhere along the line
I've spent my afternoon writing off to the Executive Club telling them what compensation I thought was suitable for what we went through. I've also been compiling my list of expenses.
I've managed to write a little more.

We had expected to see everywhere mobbed compared to October but were surprised by how quiet it still was. To be honest I had been worried I would not like it really busy so we liked it as it was. The traffic was manic. I had to try to convince Tony that Goa was not the same as Vietnam, where you step out on to the road and the traffic somehow skirts round you. It still wasn't as bad as I had expected. I have to say though that I would feel different if I had had kids with me. Apart from the arrival we had no problems with taxis. Everyone of them just accepted what we gave them without question.
Our first evening we went to Kebabs and Curries. Beautiful meal. We did have a slight problem where the waiter dropped one of the chicken dishes face down on the table though . If we had had more than 5 nights we would have returned there. We then continued up the road to have a look at Souymens Kitchen but decided it wasn't for us. We like to try Indian dishes and there didn't appear to be any on the menu. We stopped off for a couple of drinks at Over the Flames, also to look at the menu. From what we saw the dishes looked ok but we were put off by a dreadful singer and didn't want to risk him being there again if we returned to eat! We finished off at Nirvana. I just love the place. There is always a great atmosphere.

Shirley
Jolly Jacks is on the beach beside Holiday Street. You walk past Nirvana and Golden Eye hotel to get to it.

at the case!

luci

Thanks Fiona , may try Jolly Jacks in December , definitely will try Kebabs and Curries too

Sounds like youre finally getting round to de-stressing Fiona, hope the rest of your time in Goa went well, looking forward to hearing about it

Our second night we went into Candolim and started off at Teama bar. By the way, I did have my blue wristband and wore every evening but never saw another one . Candolim seemed to have doubled in size since October with a whole set of places we had never seen before as they were not open and in darkness. We decided to eat at Angarra and we had just the best meal there. OH had garlic chicken tikka, I tried chicken handi( we actually shared our dishes, rice and garlic naan bread. OH swears that is the best tikka he has ever tasted. The handi chicken was one I just decided to try, thinking that as the food was so cheap I could order another dish if I didn't like it. I just loved it- even better than xacutti! That was definitely no1 for us. We wandered up the road and decided to stop for a drink at the Jazz Corner where we actually had a couple of drinks as we were mesmerised ( for the wrong reasons) with the live music. We felt we had stepped into a different time zone as the floor filled up with dancers. The singer was Elvis De Costa( have I got that right??) There were sounds that were ancient when I was born( and I'm 47) but the audience were "giving it laldy" as they say in our corner of the world. Cheering like mad at the end of every song. He did sometimes sing more up to date ditties such as Tie a Yellow Ribbon or Country Roads. The excitement was too much for us and we decided to catch a taxi and go to our "local" for a last drink, which turned out to be quite a few!!

by the way- I like the way the spellchecker I use wants to change to Goa to gaol, gob or goat

Angarra - someplace else I need to try, so many places and so little time
"giving it laldy" not heard that for ages Fiona

I had hoped to have this finished before now but sometimes life just gets in the way doesn't it?
A week after putting in my expenses claim and my email re compensation to BA and .....nothing yet. What a surprise- they've probably lost them

Back to the report.
The next night we got a taxi up to O Pescador. Another great choice of restaurant. I had a bit of a laugh to myself when I heard the table next to us asking the waiter if Indian wine was good. Of course he said yes- and a couple of tries later the table decided that it was actually not that great! Nice setting and I like the way they have different areas of tables so you feel you are in a small restaurant but actually there are quite a few tables. We went to Shooters next for a drink and ended up spending most of the night there. First we sat and had a gossip with another couple- the woman had just had the bags under her eyes removed. It looked remarkably good considering it had only happened the day before. We then met the owners, Bev and Barry and sat and had a few drinks with them. Lovely couple and what an interesting life they've had. It was interesting to hear about life in Goa for Brits who work there.
The following day we headed off to Anjuna and the market. I noticed that the coaches stopped a long, long way from the market and there was some hike ahead for folks. Tony obviously has really dirty ears as a lot of locals were very concerned about the state of them We had a real wander around the stalls- it is some size of a place. I bought some jewellery and Tony bought a heap of spices after major negotiations and the price coming down to a seventh of what was asked for to start with. A couple of hours there was enough. We spent the rest of the day on the beach.
That night we tried Nandinis and, as I said on the restaurant sticky, I thought Bev was having a laugh when she recommended it. I would never have dreamt on entering the place. However, I had told her I wanted to try somewhere "local" and she did ask how local I meant before she gave the recommendation. What a great find. Superb food and ridiculous prices. It is the local takeaway. Give it a go and see what I mean. £4.50 for 3 main dishes, rice, naan(or rotis, cant remember which) and a large kingfisher and a coke. We then headed off for Lazy Days( it was Wednesday) but nobody was there After an hour we just headed back to Nirvana where we had our usual last drink..and then another one...and another one...

Oh good, I was beginning to think your report had gone the same way as your luggage. I am busy writing down places to eat when we go in November

I only had 5 days- you would think it would be easy enough to write Will finish last day tomorrow!