As before, I travelled with First Choice out of Gatwick finding a full plane. Last time, in early December, the plane was not full and had also combined with the Manchester customers. Odd thing is that the latest holiday was cheaper than this. Gatwick seemed empty, and if you had removed the skiers would have been emptier still. I paid the grand sum of £14-50 to use the executive lounge and more than covered costs with the nibbles on offer and 3 glasses of wine.
I was in the premier cabin on the flight and although you cant convince yourself that you are travelling business class its a nice start to the holiday. I noticed that this flight was much more generous with the alcohol than the december one.Even had to refuse a third G and T, an almost unheard of event. ( travel hint.. dont buy sandwiches airside, get them at M and S land side for half the price)
Certainly hot at Goa airport even though it was early morning there. Off the flight quickly and onto the bus to immigration which got itself into a pickle with a taxying Monarch jet allowing economy customers to get in first. Didnt matter as they seemed to have lots of immigration staff processing documents.Checked in with First Choice and then got a taxi to the Highland Beach, Candolim after fighting off the militant wing of the Goa Porters Association.
Nice to find the Highland Beach fuller than in December and once again the room was basic but OK but yet again on the top floor. Twice now that has happened and I can imagine some less fit people would struggle with the stairs.
So, any noticeable changes in the resort?. Fuller than in december with slightly fewer Russians. Still too many taxis. In December the sea was very calm out to sea with huge breaking waves thumping in to the sand. This time the water was rougher. Sea temp still cold enough to give a shock to the unwary.
As in the past, I would walk down Candolim beach road, fight off sunbed touts, balance along one of those narrow carpet things, and turn right towards calangute, heading for Jolly Jacks beach hut. I read with interest an earlier posting about this hut. I have known the family who own it since the mid 90's when it consisted of mum and dad, two brothers and four small interchangeable sisters. Dad, the original Jack, died a few years ago and the two brothers have taken on the 'boss' role, with most of the cooking still done by mum and the bar under the watchful eye of the sisters. They are the nicest people, truly. I do agree with the posters who didnt like the 'thump dum thump dum' music that was often played through two huge speakers. I put it down to the fact that the family and the hut boys are all young and are not tuned into to the idea that middle age visitors like peace and calm and may not wish to boogy at 11-00am. The huts best time was in the evening when you could sit out in the cool and listen to the sea. I also noticed that there was a space along the beach where the police destroyed some huts back in January. Knowing how much taxes and payoffs are paid by Jolly Jacks, this seems reasonable to me although there might be a gentler way to do it.
I had decided this trip to see if I could avoid my appetite being ruined by the malaria pills side effects. This involved waiting to see what the mosquito situation was on arrival and then starting the treatment if there was an infestation. (yes, risky, I know). I didnt see a single mossy all week and simply took precautions with the DEET each evening and then with UK strength fly killer before sleeping. This meant that I could enjoy dinner. I ate at After 7, with the stunning fillet steak, Au Jardin by the Goan heritage Hotel which has an excellent menu and a lovely garden setting, the international restaurant at the Taj (OK but very overpriced), Casa seashell, and Stone House.
The Stone House food was OK but best of all was their live music and the owner Chris, the blues nut, who made me feel very welcome and insisted on plying me with free drinks and picking my brains about British bands.
Near the Magnum apartments in Candolim is a huge tree covered by the clothes for sale of a shop run each season by a family from Karnataka. I have known them for years. They are very worried about how the Goans are making it difficult for Karnatikans to continue in business. I have sympathy for both sides and suspect it is all down to fewer tourist numbers this year. Interestingly, the beach is packed with sellers now, but in december all you could buy were strawberries from urchins. I was told they had all paid the police.
Although a monstrosity and a bit against the spirit of Goan holidays, I did like Newtons. You have to carefully look at foods sell by dates but its nice to stroll in A/C cool whilst getting a few things for the hotel room fridge.
Back, alas, to the UK. Nice to reach the premier cabin to find a Daily Mail waiting plus a fizzy wine . Well deserved after fighting through an over crowded airport full of Russians struggling with oversized hand luggage, and a rugby scrum as 3 flights were called all at once through one set of doors.